Speedometer wanted

If you get one and have parts laying around then send me the speedometer needle please.... lol Im really needing one.

First make sure your turn signal switch in the LH controls is cleaned, lubed, and not gummed up and sticky. Your system might be working but the switch won't slide back to the off position when released.

Second: This is what I know of the self canceling system on our 454s

Components of blinker self cancel.

Turn signal cancel unit (black box): I'll explain more at the bottom.

Distance sensor (inside speedometer): Is actually just an open switch that closes when a magnet on the speedometer input shaft rotates past the switch. Actually there are four magnets around the diameter of the speedometer shaft. So for one rotation of the speedometer input shaft the distance sensor closes four times. This sensor was a small black plastic rectangle. It had two wires (red and light green) one coming out each end. It was snapped into a rectangle opening inside speedometer near the input of the speedo cable.

Blinker switch: Operates like normal blinker switch but also sends a 12 volt supply to the black box when blinker is on in left or right on position. Blinker switch is held in the on position (left or right) by a detent that the plunger from the reset solenoid holds.

Blinker reset solenoid (inside LH control with blinker switch): Operates when the black box sends a short one second 12 volt supply. This 12 volts supply causes the plunger to retract and the blinker switch springs back to center (off) position.


Signal cancel black box 6 wires duties.
BK/Y (black/yellow stripe) = Ground
BL/W (blue/white stripe) = 12 volt supply while ignition key is on.
W/G (white/green stripe) = 12 volt sent out to solenoid switch in LH handlebar control to reset signal switch. (short 1 second 12 volt output after distance sensor is fulfilled)
W/R (white/red strip) = 12 volt supply while blinker is on.
R (red) = Distance sensor. Small 1-2 volt output while blinker is the on position.
LG (light green) = Distance sensor return line to black box. (I may have these last two wires switched. I'm going off memory here)


So when you turn on the blinkers the black box starts sending out a small 1-2 volts signal to the distance sensor switch. I found that after about 40 revolutions of the speedometer input shaft (distance sensor closing approx 160 times) the black box would then send out the 12 volt signal to the solenoid switch to reset the blinker switch. I'm not sure of the circuitry of the black box but it seamed to send reset signal consistently at about 40 revs of the speedometer input shaft.


I know this does not answer your question but maybe it will help you on your way.



I have been thinking about a way to reproduce what the black box does too.
Maybe a timed relay would work good enough.
Maybe use an aftermarket self canceling system but they can cost like $100


I thought if you mounted a small momentary switch next to the LH controls you could run the W/R (white/red stripe) wire coming out of the LH controls into this switch. Then the other wire coming out of momentary switch would connect to W/G (white/green stripe) wire coming from LH controls. So when the blinkers were turned on 12volts would go to the momentary switch. When you pushed the momentary switch the 12 volts would then go to the blinker reset solenoid and reset the blinker switch. Mind you this would not be a self canceling system but you wouldn't have to try and slide the blinker switch back to the center (off) position.
Or you could update the LH control to one off a bike that has one of those buttons to reset the signal switch.

Good luck. I'm happy to help if I can.

Glad my info might help. Actually I'm glad my hour or more of tinkering around with it had some use besides my own curiosity.

As far as what is wrong with yours... Don't know. Solenoid could be bad.
You can check to see if the solenoid works. Just jump 12 volts to the W/G wire on the five pin harness off the LH control and ground the BK/Y wire on the Nine pin harness. Slide blinker switch to on, jump wires as described, and you should hear solenoid click and blinker switch should return to center. Sounds like you have the switch mechanics area cleaned and ready.

The distance sensor may be bad or may have fallen out of the place its snaps into. The sensor is a mechanical switch that the magnets activate. If you take the sensor out (it is just snapped in place) you can see the workings of it due to a clear cover on the magnet side of the sensor. It looks like there are two contacts that are just barley not touching and the magnet must draw they together. With sensor in place slowly rotate speedo input shaft and test ohms across the wires of the sensor.

That leaves the Black box.... Mine I tested by having it hooked up to the LH control, jumpin all supply and ground wires needed, and simulating the distance sensor by touching sensor wires together around 160 times. After approx 160 touches the solenoid would activate. Oh course my harness was chopped apart so it was easy to jump all the necessary wires. You could take the black box, the LH control, a battery, and some jumper wires and bench test it.


Magnets are molded into a ring that is apart of the speedometer input shaft. You can't see them but if you remove the distance sensor you can use a small steel object like screwdriver to be attracted to the magnets. So i don't think these can fail.


Now if you can replicate the the black box then you are the man. That is beyond me at this point.

Good luck
Brian

great info and my black box went out too after two weeks now of riding here's my plan

mount a roll switch to the frame where the gear selector lever will activate the switch connect the red 12v signal that comes from the turn signal to one side then the w/g wire to the other side

because what do you do after you turn thats right shift up now heres where the problem lies what if you come to a complete stop and shift up into nuetral will i be able to adjust the switch well enough so the half step to neutral doesnt turn the switch off and cancel the turn signals or will i need to use a relay and wire it into the neutral switch so if its in neutral the switch wont be active until 2nd gear??