mitch
New Member
Posts: 10 
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Post by mitch on Jun 14, 2013 9:25:18 GMT -6
I am thinking of changing to pod filters. They are 54 mm? And what size filter will i need for the crank case? And if anyone has a link for what to do with the hoses that would be great.. I know I've seen it on here but Im not sure where
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Post by Blaine on Jun 14, 2013 15:38:22 GMT -6
I am thinking of changing to pod filters. They are 54 mm? And what size filter will i need for the crank case? And if anyone has a link for what to do with the hoses that would be great.. I know I've seen it on here but Im not sure where Yep 54mm. There is a matching crankcase filtr to match the pods (Emgo)But you can modify most to fit.The hoses get eliminated except the vacuum to the petcock. The vacuum on the right carb can be blocked off or "T"ed into the left.   |
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mitch
New Member
Posts: 10
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Post by mitch on Jun 16, 2013 19:49:07 GMT -6
The outside diameter of the crank case it 17mm an 18mm filter should fit quite easily shouldn't it?
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Post by Blaine on Jun 16, 2013 21:13:28 GMT -6
Yes.The easiest way is to use the bottom half of the original airbox hose & plug the filter into the hose.That way the bottom half of the original hose still fits on the engine breather. |
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Post by joe454 on Apr 10, 2015 9:12:26 GMT -6
what are the hoses coming out of the cylinder heads into the air box for? they run out of the heads above the spark plugs behind the carbs in to the air box? was this for emissions for cali? can they be removed and capped?
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Post by joe454 on Apr 10, 2015 9:23:35 GMT -6
![]() [/IMG] |
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Post by Blaine on Apr 10, 2015 14:09:39 GMT -6
what are the hoses coming out of the cylinder heads into the air box for? they run out of the heads above the spark plugs behind the carbs in to the air box? was this for emissions for cali? can they be removed and capped?
Yes on both counts!!!  |
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Post by eaglerider on Apr 10, 2015 18:14:37 GMT -6
They actually do not go from the valve cover to the airbox...there is an airvalve above the valve cover that those two hoses go to then a hose from the airvalve to the airbox...all that is emissions control stuff, and most of us have removed all that and plugged the two ports on the valve cover. There is a kit that consists of two plates that replace the ports, making the valve cover look better.
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Post by joe454 on Apr 10, 2015 21:51:42 GMT -6
Is there a link for the covers or where I can get them? Thanks for the info. I'm glad I found this group
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Post by Blaine on Apr 10, 2015 22:23:15 GMT -6
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Post by eaglerider on Apr 11, 2015 7:48:09 GMT -6
If you are handy at making things, you also could make these yourself out of a piece of flat aluminum.
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Post by joe454 on Apr 11, 2015 20:29:10 GMT -6
I thought about making them but for 15$ can't beat it.
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Post by joe454 on Apr 14, 2015 6:36:37 GMT -6
2-1/2 turns out the factory starting point for needles
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Post by Blaine on Apr 14, 2015 13:52:07 GMT -6
2-1/2 turns out the factory starting point for needles Yep....Than jdjust for best idle with bike warm. |
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Post by joe454 on Apr 18, 2015 21:12:27 GMT -6
Well I did a rebuild kit along with cleaning out all the main and idle jets. New plugs fresh battery oil coolant ect. Bike starts right up but revs at 3-4k I twist the throttle and it bogs out. I have it at 2-1/2 turns out. The throttle cables to the carb are not tightened down but they are snug. Also only 1side of the pipes is getting hot I took the spark plug wire off the hot side and it kept running at a lower idle. If I covered the intake on carb for a sec it would rev up. I'm not a mechanic but I'm pretty good with a little help. Should I take off and do a bench sync. I'm at a loss need some advice.
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Post by Blaine on Apr 19, 2015 2:26:44 GMT -6
Well I did a rebuild kit along with cleaning out all the main and idle jets. New plugs fresh battery oil coolant ect. Bike starts right up but revs at 3-4k I twist the throttle and it bogs out. I have it at 2-1/2 turns out. The throttle cables to the carb are not tightened down but they are snug. Also only 1side of the pipes is getting hot I took the spark plug wire off the hot side and it kept running at a lower idle. If I covered the intake on carb for a sec it would rev up. I'm not a mechanic but I'm pretty good with a little help. Should I take off and do a bench sync. I'm at a loss need some advice. Sounds like the carb on the cold side is still plugged somewere. |
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Post by joe454 on Apr 19, 2015 8:16:02 GMT -6
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Post by Blaine on Apr 19, 2015 12:10:34 GMT -6
Yep.......Works wonders. |
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Post by joe454 on Apr 19, 2015 20:36:56 GMT -6
Well finally got all cleaned up. Running good idle seems right response is quick. Waiting for my friend to come over and check it out. And fine tune. Just need a tank....
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Post by joe454 on Apr 30, 2015 6:56:33 GMT -6
New prob. Bike starts idles around 1k fine slow rev is good. But when I open it up more it is bogging down any suggestions?
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Post by Blaine on Apr 30, 2015 13:38:53 GMT -6
New prob. Bike starts idles around 1k fine slow rev is good. But when I open it up more it is bogging down any suggestions? Need more info on what you did to carbs & airbox. |
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Post by joe454 on Apr 30, 2015 18:05:02 GMT -6
Rebuild kit cleaned jets. Airbox gone put on emgo airfilter pods. I think I need to get different jets. I figured out it was starving for gas so I turned out the fuel screw 3 full turns. This helped but still bogs at higher rpms.
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Post by Blaine on Apr 30, 2015 18:44:34 GMT -6
Rebuild kit cleaned jets. Airbox gone put on emgo airfilter pods. I think I need to get different jets. I figured out it was starving for gas so I turned out the fuel screw 3 full turns. This helped but still bogs at higher rpms. Yep.....Start with bigger MJ's & we can go from there.Idle mixture screws should be set with the bike running for smoothest/fastest idle. |
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Post by joe454 on May 3, 2015 20:27:31 GMT -6
I ordered main jets. Should I get new needles as well? I've read or seen on YouTube about putting washers on the needles to lift em up what is the purpose of it.
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Post by Blaine on May 4, 2015 5:28:25 GMT -6
I ordered main jets. Should I get new needles as well? I've read or seen on YouTube about putting washers on the needles to lift em up what is the purpose of it. When you raise the needles you make the mid-range richer. Two 3mm washers is usually plenty. |
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Post by joe454 on May 6, 2015 16:55:06 GMT -6
Well got the jets today also put 1 washer under needles. Bike idles and at higher rpms bike hauls Donkey. But in the mids response is laggy. What next?
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Post by Blaine on May 6, 2015 17:53:34 GMT -6
Well got the jets today also put 1 washer under needles. Bike idles and at higher rpms bike hauls Donkey. But in the mids response is laggy. What next? One more washer under each needle.Needles control the mid-range. |
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Post by mik3 on May 29, 2015 20:47:04 GMT -6
Sorry to refire an old thread. I really want to switch to the egmo pods. I have them, the valve cover caps and am currently riding the bike. Cant have the bike down for any amount of time. So the question is, what size jets should i switch to? I live in southern cali, not sure if that makes a difference. I tried to run the pods and it dies on throttle with the stock setup. I figure this is normal without changing the setup. Thanks!
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Post by Blaine on May 29, 2015 21:16:03 GMT -6
Sorry to refire an old thread. I really want to switch to the egmo pods. I have them, the valve cover caps and am currently riding the bike. Cant have the bike down for any amount of time. So the question is, what size jets should i switch to? I live in southern cali, not sure if that makes a difference. I tried to run the pods and it dies on throttle with the stock setup. I figure this is normal without changing the setup. Thanks! This is really a trial & error depending on each different bike.You can start with a #130 Main & two shims (3mm washers) under the needles. |
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Post by mik3 on May 29, 2015 22:01:30 GMT -6
Should i order additional larger jets as well? I dont mind buying ones i wont use so they're on hand in case the 130's arent large enough?
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