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Post by reheite on Mar 10, 2014 12:28:12 GMT -6
I'm in the process of getting this bike back to tip-top running shape. I'm going to be doing the valve adjustment this weekend hopefully. I've cleaned the carbs, and put on pod filters, the fuel petcock needs replacing so I have a new one on order.
My question is, when I went to clean the carbs, I was looking and noticed that my carb had HEX head instead of round head main jets in them. Why on earth would this be? I know that that can have an effect on how the bike runs.
I'm trying to figure out, should I replace them with the #130 ROUND head jets or keep them with the hex head jets?
The bike is bogging right now at high-range RPM, and I cant get FOT to rev much past 8,000.
I'm planning on shimming the needle and cutting the 3 loops off the diaphragm spring.
Any help would be appreciated!
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Post by reheite on Mar 10, 2014 12:28:58 GMT -6
A link to the proper jet's would be of great help! I'm figuring on getting a set of #130 and #135. See which runs better.
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Post by Blaine on Mar 10, 2014 12:41:24 GMT -6
I'm in the process of getting this bike back to tip-top running shape. I'm going to be doing the valve adjustment this weekend hopefully. I've cleaned the carbs, and put on pod filters, the fuel petcock needs replacing so I have a new one on order. My question is, when I went to clean the carbs, I was looking and noticed that my carb had HEX head instead of round head main jets in them. Why on earth would this be? I know that that can have an effect on how the bike runs. I'm trying to figure out, should I replace them with the #130 ROUND head jets or keep them with the hex head jets? The bike is bogging right now at high-range RPM, and I cant get FOT to rev much past 8,000. I'm planning on shimming the needle and cutting the 3 loops off the diaphragm spring. Any help would be appreciated! I never had any problem getting jets.I just took the old one to the shop & they had them in stock.Mine were round.I used #132's in mine.   |
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Post by reheite on Mar 10, 2014 13:15:35 GMT -6
problem is none of the shops around here have the jets. So I have to order them online.
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Post by Blaine on Mar 10, 2014 13:48:03 GMT -6
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Post by reheite on Mar 10, 2014 21:21:41 GMT -6
it doesnt say what # they are? How do i make sure I get the 130 and 135?
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Post by Blaine on Mar 11, 2014 5:55:49 GMT -6
it doesnt say what # they are? How do i make sure I get the 130 and 135? I would send them a e-mail.The jet has the # stamped on the end. |
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Post by kawa85 on Mar 31, 2014 20:34:39 GMT -6
I think I need to clean my carbs but I have another problem, the engine smokes after I did a valve adjustment. The engine [valves] is tapping. I heard that is a good thing (tapping). I removed the carbs, cleaned em, and out them back in. But I didn't open and clean around the float bowls or floats. Screws were stripped.
What should I do? I don't know whether to proceed with the carb cleaning or what. I can send you a video of the engine idling. I can't post here for some reason.
Thanks in advance.
Sent from mobile using proboards app
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Post by Blaine on Mar 31, 2014 22:09:14 GMT -6
I think I need to clean my carbs but I have another problem, the engine smokes after I did a valve adjustment. The engine [valves] is tapping. I heard that is a good thing (tapping). I removed the carbs, cleaned em, and out them back in. But I didn't open and clean around the float bowls or floats. Screws were stripped. What should I do? I don't know whether to proceed with the carb cleaning or what. I can send you a video of the engine idling. I can't post here for some reason. Thanks in advance. Sent from mobile using proboards app What color smoke/ Black is too rich & blue is oil burning. |
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Post by kawa85 on Apr 1, 2014 16:48:32 GMT -6
The smoke is not coming from the exhaust. It's coming from the engine. White smoke. It doesn't smoke a lot when its idling but when I give it gas it smokes more. It looks like its coming from the front of the engine. COULD IT BE SMOKING BECAUSE I PUT 100% WATER IN THE RADIATOR? I didn't want to fill the radiator with coolant until I was sure the engine was running right/valves clearance job done right. You can hear the valves tapping here and there but not all the time. There is a pattern to the tapping. Could it be that I adjusted the valve clearances incorrectly? I took my time, tightened everything to spec with torque wrench and triple checked everything.
I can send someone a video to their email if they think they can tell what the problem is. I can't seem to post pics/videos using this app.
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 1, 2014 18:17:20 GMT -6
If your getting smoke from the front of the engine maybe your header caskets are leaking. Did you check to see if the headers were tight? Maybe there is a missing gasket. If you pull the header off (2 nuts) there is a thin copper washer which is the gasket if that is missing it will leak exhaust from there.
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Post by eaglerider on Apr 1, 2014 19:22:18 GMT -6
Kawa85, until u get the valves adjusted right, nothing you do will help. Start with a good valve adjustment, then work on the other stuff. O, you did use metric gauges when doing the valve adjustment, didn't you?
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Post by kawa85 on Apr 2, 2014 9:06:33 GMT -6
Yes, I used a metric feeler gauge and adjusted the clearances to .018 mm for intakes (rear) and .023mm (front) exhaust. I slipped the feeler guage between the end of valve stem and the adjusting screw. Regarding TDC: I set the 1st (right) piston to "C" mark and the 2nd piston to "F". Book said "T" but that's wrong. With "T" the lobes were NOT pointing away from the cam. I am sure I did the valve adjustment right. I spent 2 days on it, researching online for hours to determine which was the right way. I read on here somewhere that the valve tapping is to be expected and that it's even good, and that it goes away after a while. I suspect the smoke was coming from the engine because of the 100% water in radiator (temporary). So now I will pull the carbs to clean em properly and see if that works. She's losing steam at higher rpm. Idles nicely until warmed up. The smoke is minimal. If anyone has any ideas/suggestions, I appreciate it.
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Post by eaglerider on Apr 2, 2014 10:48:33 GMT -6
The coolant in the system would not make it "steam", unless you have a blown headgasket, letting the coolant into the combustion chamber...which would show up also mixed with the oil (the oil would then look sorta "milky").
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Post by kawa85 on Apr 2, 2014 10:56:24 GMT -6
The exhaust header? I just Google 'headers' didn't know what they were. I the heat shield near the exhaust header (manifold?) is loose on my bike. It was always a bit loose. I thought that was just a heat shield so I never bothered to fix it. I didn't mess with that part of the bike when I did the valves though. I'll check the headers, thanks for that advice.
The bottom line is that I need to remove the carbs and clean them correctly. I will try to post a video of the bike idling and maybe someone can tell me if it sounds OK (after valve adjustment). I'm a little bit concerned about the tapping. She fired right up yesterday and idled nicely til she got warm, then she stalled.
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Post by kawa85 on Apr 2, 2014 15:16:28 GMT -6
I'll change the oil but it's highly unlikely the head gasket is blown. It was running good until it started stalling. But then again I don't know what could cause a head gasket to blow other than high revving and I don't do that. No one else rides my bike but me heck no:p
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 4, 2014 17:04:55 GMT -6
Kawa, the header is the part of the exhaust that hooks to the engine. It is at the head of the exhaust, hence the name header. Not really sure if that's why its called the header but sounds good to me. Lol The shield your talking about is just that, a shield. I don't have them on mine anymore. I removed them when I redid my exhaust. Once you remove the shield on both side you will see the header bolts. One is behind the header and a little hard to get to. The gasket is actually a copper washer looking thing. Shaped like a gasket but its made of copper. If that's missing you could have a smoke leak there. Good luck.
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Post by kawa85 on May 19, 2014 21:24:04 GMT -6
Video Placeholder This is all a carb/valve job that ran amok: -valves adjusted -carbs cleaned, bench synced, not carb tool synced Here is a video of the engine idling. There is some smoke coming from the engine. There is also some tapping that can be heard. Is that normal? I did the valve adjustment, its done good. Carbs are off and I am cleaning them now. |
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Post by kawa85 on May 19, 2014 21:30:20 GMT -6
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Post by Blaine on May 20, 2014 5:16:17 GMT -6
I can't see your video. |
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Post by kawa85 on May 20, 2014 17:54:55 GMT -6
I just clicked on the link and it works. The video plays. Can anyone else see it?
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Post by mikestorm78 on May 20, 2014 19:35:16 GMT -6
I just clicked on the link and it works. The video plays. Can anyone else see it? Nope. Tells me I may not have permission. Sent from my One using Tapatalk |
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Post by kawa85 on May 20, 2014 19:43:58 GMT -6
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Post by kawa85 on May 21, 2014 18:13:11 GMT -6
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Post by Blaine on May 21, 2014 18:57:34 GMT -6
Seems really noisy.Are you sure you used metric gauges?? |
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Post by kawa85 on May 21, 2014 22:04:25 GMT -6
I'm sorry but I just lost 45 min worth of explaining because I accidentally hit Back button on my browser using some Mac!@#$% shortcut, fat finger error. In short, this is how i adjusted the valves clearances: R1 piston TDC @ mark 'C' L2 piston TDC @ mark 'F'(even though book said 'T') -- It can't be 'T' because then the piston is NOT at TDC and cam lobes are pointed towards the camshaft. intake 0.13-0.18 mm -- i set mine to 0.15 exhaust 0.18-0.23 mm -- i set mine to 0.21 And I know how tell intake from exhaust valves, just to eliminate this as a possible error: Carb side = intake Front engine = exhaust Cylmer book says R1 piston TDC @ 'C' & L2 piston TDC @ 'T'. Haynes book says "Position the no. 1 piston (left side of engine) at TDC on compression stroke...mark 'T', 'C' for right side piston. Both manuals say the same thing just in opposite orders. I think both are wrong on the 'C' mark. I feel it should be 'F' because on 'T' the cams DO NOT point away from the camshaft. When it's at 'F' like i did then the lobes are pointing away and piston is at TDC. Can someone say for sure? IF I did set the valves clearances incorrectly then could this be the cause of the noisy (tapping) idle and smoke? -Thanks for helping me put my 454 back on the road for where it pines |
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Post by kawa85 on May 21, 2014 22:09:03 GMT -6
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Post by Blaine on May 22, 2014 5:18:20 GMT -6
I think the smoke is nothing more than a little oil on the exhaust from having valve cover off.It doesn't sound near a bad in this video.Remember these engines are noisy by nature.When I adjust my valves I never use the timing marks.I just make sure the lobes of the cam are pointing 180 away from valve stem (pointing straight up) Much simpler & no error. |
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Post by kawa85 on May 22, 2014 16:13:00 GMT -6
Phew! Good call man. That makes perfect sense. The oil did spill out a little when the cover was off. I guess I will focus on the carbs now. I cleaned them good, now I'll make any adjustments and sync them with my homemade sync tool (piece of 1x6 and plastic hose). Thanks for the help.
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