Clarrification on float height measurment....

[gdeangel]

Found a lot of helpful info so far, but one question still need clarification.... carbs are off the bike.

Turn carb. upside down. Caliper measure to the top of the (now inverted) float, "middle" plateau, not the "bumps" on the edges... Simple enough. My confusion is whether the float is supposed to be actuating the float needed pins at this point or not. The little springs in my L & R needles have different resistance. One was super crusted over, the other clean as whistle. Have cleaned both, and both springs / pins are free moving, but when I turn the carb over one pin actuates all the way "in" on the weight of the float alone, the other side the float is just sitting on a partially compressed pin. I can also manually hold the floats and measure just at the point they make contact with the pins if that is supposed to be the control point. Also I don't see any movement in the needles themselves. Seems like they should retract out from the port a little when the floats are raised (empty bowl = "down" if the carbs were right-side up).

Right now both are set to 16.5 mm. I used this as starting point because that was where the carb without all the junk was set. Other carb was something like 19mm, and bowl was completely dry when I pulled carbs. That makes sense, right?

Shop manual talks about using a manometer to check float level. Is it worth it to get one?

Thanks

[FlyingPanMan]

I have to do my carbs sometime but no experience of these particular carbs.

Your problem may be caused by a leak in one of the floats that makes it heavier than the other and will also tend to flood the carb in normal running. I don't even know what material the floats are made of, but if they are removable, shake them to listen for fuel inside. Sometimes it's possible to repair a leaking float - again depends on the material, e.g. brass can be soldered, plastic more difficult. I've never opened one of these, so don't know. 

I think you need to get the correct needle valves sorted out also.

Remember what the floats and needle valves do when they are upright - the float rises with incoming fuel and cuts off the supply of fuel coming through the needle valve. This needs to be adjusted correctly on both carbs or they will run lean or too rich/flooding. Hope that helps. A manometer isn't needed for float level checking... more for carb balancing and there are alternatives out there.

Paul, AKA FlyingPanMan on YouTube

[oldboyonrgv]

With the carbs upside down , the weight of the floats should settle them at the correct height. As you have found one higher than the other the higher one has an issue with it, needle valve, seat or float. I would remove that one and plonk it in some carb cleaner ( I use brake/clutch cleaner and an ultrasonic cleaner)

Have a really close look down the hole that the float valve came out of - may be some curd in there which will need cleaning out.

Whilst you have the float valve out make sure the internal spring moves fully in and out smoothly - if you immerse it in the cleaner whilst you do it you may find some crud comes out.

Lastly swap the float valves over and then see what readings you get - this will tell you if its the valve or seat that is at fault.... you can also swap the floats to check them
Check the floats weigh the same as well - although I have never seen one of these floats leak - but you may be the one that proves the rule!!