Winterizing Tips

[The Great White Knight Sr.]

Winterizing Tips: When Keeping Your Motorcycle Outside In The Winter

When the riding season ends. These tips may be helpful.

Oil Change and Lube: Change the motor oil prior to winter storage. And then run it for a few minutes to get the new oil coated on the engine. (There will be differing opinions on this.) Regardless, change the oil before storing! Also lube moving parts (cables, etc.) with recommended lubricants.

Run Carb(s) out of Gasoline: Purge the carb(s) before storage anytime, and add gasoline stabilizer to your tank per the instructions.

Wash Motorcycle Thoroughly: As stated in my "Motorcycle Cleaning Tips" a motorcycle needs a thorough washing before storage.

Windshield: Get bugs (and parts) off as soon as possible... some bugs have chemicals that will etch your paint, and ruin your windshield. A side from the fact that bugs is more difficult to clean when dry. This is not only a winter storage tip. Use an approved cleaner for the windshield.

Painted Areas and Frame: Apply a coat of wax on the painted areas of a bike to keep condensation from collecting and damaging your bike. Note: The motorcycle frame often gets neglected, but it should be waxed prior to winter storage like other painted parts.

Chrome and Rims: Clean the chrome and aluminum parts, then coat them with a good chrome polish (Mother's, or Clean Cycle Metal Polish) will keep these areas relatively clean. It will be easier in Spring to clean up. But, if you are hard pressed to do a thorough job on these areas and want to keep the tarnish off (especially aluminum), a coat of silicone lube will give some protection (to be washed off in the Spring).

Drive Belts: Adjust the belt per spec. If you have a chain drive, lube the chain with a chain lube (SAE 90 works), or a light grease (leave a note to clean excess in Spring).

Leather: There are several good leather cleaners and conditioners. Apply leather cleaner/conditioner to motorcycle leather. Leather riding gear should also get a through cleaning, and then coated with leather conditioner before storage. Note: Several light coats are better than a single heavy one. If your leather gets wet, a light coat of Lexol (brand name) conditions the leather. Buff the leather with a soft cloth after the cleaner/conditioner is dry.

Vinyl: Clean vinyl with a vinyl cleaner, and then use a protector. There are several products on the market. Buff with a soft cloth when dry.

Battery: Tending the battery is advisable. Remove the battery. Clean the terminals. Check the fluid level (add if necessary)... use a flashlight to shine through the battery to see the level. Then attach a Battery Tender to keep the battery charged. Place the battery on a wood plank (not concrete). Put the tender on your wish list if you do not own one

Exhaust Pipes: Little critters and bugs do not know any better…so stuff a clean soft cloth in the end of your pipe, and/or cover the end with a plastic bag (secured with a rubber band). Leave note to remove the bags and rags in Spring. (Note: A little fuel oil on the rag will discourage most critters from making a home in a pipe. (Dampen, not soak, the cloth with fuel oil then stuff in the pipe(s).)

Tire Pressure: Check the tire pressure. Adjust as necessary, and leave note to check in Spring.

Cover: Protect your motorcycle with a breathable cover, or use a soft cotton bed sheet to keep dust off. This will not prevent condensation from forming. Note: Cats like to perch on warm places during the cool months. I would put a box over my seat and backrest that restricts this activity.

Clean Helmet: Wearing a helmet is a matter of choice There are products advertised to "freshen" your helmet that work well. But, a simpler and cheaper method is to use a little Ivory dish soap, or Dr. Bonner's Peppermint Oil Soap with warm water to clean and refresh your helmet. Note: A damp cloth rubbed around the inside does wonders every week or so. Allow the helmet to dry before using.

Remove any temperature sensitive things, e.g., Oil Temp Dip Stick. The extreme temps may damage this equipment. Stuff clean (lint free) cloth in "holes" and leave note for spring.

Spring Note/List: Write down all the things you need to do or check in the spring. Then, tape the list to the ignition or handle bars where you will readily see it before you use the motorcycle.

If you cannot do these things, take your motorcycle to a reputable dealer. Hopefully, they will assure everything is set for winter storage

[phrogypoop]

Thanks for the tips, this is my first season and I was wondering about it. For the fuel tank do you just put a little in the tank or fill it with fuel/ stabilizer mix to prevent rust?

Thanks,
jon

[brnt2180]

ive also been putting fogging oil in the cylinders to keep the rings from rustin to the cylinder . it seems to work really well. the only thing is it might foul the plugs. ive been tellin customers to fill the tank to prevent rust from forming at the top of the fuel line to the fill cap.

[andrewk]

brnt2180 said:

ive also been putting fogging oil in the cylinders to keep the rings from rustin to the cylinder . it seems to work really well. the only thing is it might foul the plugs. ive been tellin customers to fill the tank to prevent rust from forming at the top of the fuel line to the fill cap.

That's the way to go. More gas in the tank means less room for air, moisture, and rust.

[andrewk]

One thing I would like to add is to not use "Sta-bil". In my professional opinion, the stuff is junk. I use seafoam in all my stuff, and in everything that comes through my shop, and haven't had a problem. Seafoam is about twice the price, but worth in IMO. Sta-bil just doesn't cut the mustard.

I know there are probably lots of guys here that swear by it, but I have seen nothing but problems with it.

Just my opinion,
Andrew

[tracie68]

I own a kawasaki ltd 454 Im try to prepare it for winter but cant find the release for my seat so as to remove battery HELP I had the bike for my birthday so please understand Ive never had kawasaki ltd before only sports tourers

[squidly454]

You have to open the tool box on the back of the seat and there are two bolts. Remove the bolts and the seat lifts off the rear and slides back off the bracket near the gas tank.

[sctsgt]

Just be careful when lifting past the backrest. If you don't manipulate the seat a little it can drag on the backrest, causing the seam to rip if your cover is brittle.

[kopcicle]

I wrote this some time ago to friend I was just thinking about . A difficult anniversary at best . Thought I'd do something constructive and share . Any feedback or questions are welcome as usual .

Just some personal notes about preserving a bike . Heat it up then from a external tank use about 1/3 clean motor oil to 2/3 fuel and as the engine sees this mixture you may have to choke it to keep it running a bit till the plugs finally foul . Drain the oil and replace with fresh oil and filter . I over fill it significantly (as much as a gallon) and as a reminder I duct tape a cap from an oil bottle to the ignition and the oil fill . I did try to start a KZ1000 with two gallons of oil in it once . Remove the spark plugs and shoot a fair amount of Zep 45 or your favorite anti corrosion juice into each cylinder. Before reinstalling the plugs bend the top over to remind you that maybe you don't want to reinstall the wires let alone try to start the bike with out replacing the plugs . Remove the battery . Now I have heard and done many things to keep a battery alive but the one that seems to work is to put it on a battery tender and exercise it once in a while . Mine powers an automotive tape deck and or a 12v coffee maker during the winter . Fill the tank and completely drain the carbs . I do mean completely , to the point of removing the drain screws and shooting contact cleaner into the bowl and allowing to drain/evaporate before replacing the screw . I disconnect the fuel line to the carb(s) and positively cap it , I do not trust vacuum petcocks .If you have a center stand or some way to get poth wheels off the ground do it and reduce (not empty) the tire pressure . Pledge the holy dog snot out of everything you can get to and spray Zep 45 at every thing you can't .Remember to cap or plug the exhaust . I once had to remove several pounds of cat food .

The reverse is throw the fuel into the lawn mower . It's no good for a bike after sitting even two months . It was only in the tank to help prevent condensation and rust . Drain the oil and use it somewhere else . Sitting in a bike is almost as bad as being used in a bike for two to three months . I won't get into condensation , organic aldehyde , combustion byproducts and acid formation in oil in the presence of dissimilar metals , just take it as fact . Refill the oil to spec and change the filter if you didn't when you parked it . Remove the plugs and toss them .Cover the plug holes with rags . leave them out for now . This is one of the few uses I've found for WD40 . Shoot a bit of WD in each cylinder .Remove the caps or plugs from the exhaust . Reinstall the battery and spin the engine a bit with the starter . Now if you had a bunch of lube in the cylinders arn't you glad the rags were over the plug holes ? install fresh plugs . Add fresh gas hook up the tank and start . Start in a well ventilated or at least with the exhaust pointed out the garage door . Add a bit of air to the tires and give the beastie a quick test drive . Let it cool and give it a bath to get as much of the dust and Zep45 off as possible . Give it the walk around as you're washing and drying to see if anything needs attention . I needed to write this anyway so you benefit as well.

~kop

[kenyanrider86]

Oct 24, 2007 21:44:25 GMT -6 phrogypoop said:

Thanks for the tips, this is my first season and I was wondering about it. For the fuel tank do you just put a little in the tank or fill it with fuel/ stabilizer mix to prevent rust?

Thanks,
jon

Thanks for the tips. Just got mine today and have no garage