rotor/starter clutch assembly removal

[joe]

AHA, looks like the piece that houses the springs and rollers is cracked in two places. Guess it's off to ebay

[joe]

So i just replaced the starter clutch and is working much better. It'll still occasionally slip though, is this normal for these bikes? The old clutch was real bad it would just make a ratcheting sound and the flywheel would just kind of shake back and forth until you let off the button and try again. This new clutch works pretty well but after a few turns it'll slip once then keep going. Seems odd.

[Blaine]

Jan 30, 2017 20:06:53 GMT -6 joe said:

So i just replaced the starter clutch and is working much better. It'll still occasionally slip though, is this normal for these bikes? The old clutch was real bad it would just make a ratcheting sound and the flywheel would just kind of shake back and forth until you let off the button and try again. This new clutch works pretty well but after a few turns it'll slip once then keep going. Seems odd.

Are you sure you got all 3 springs & rollers in properly?......These can be tricky to get into place properly......Also use of wrong oil can cause slippage.

[joe]

The clutch was pre assembled. I tested it with the cover off so it wasn't bathed in oil. Maybe that's the issue. She's back together now so I'll test her out a few more times and see if it goes away.

[eaglerider]

Springs may be a little bit on the weak side.

[joe]

Possible but it's a brand new aftermarket clutch

[knoizy]

After managing to start the bike with a tickle for the last two years I've finally pulled the starter system out and can't find any obvious culprit. The symptoms were the mechanical slip and ratchet after about half a second of starting, that's how I was usually OK starting with a few quick touches on the button.

Starter clutch - seems OK turning by hand and visual inspection, I've noted what Blaine said about weak springs.

Starter motor - likewise seems OK a bit of carbon round the contacts. Lots of grease in the gears, should that be packed out with grease on installation?

Electrics - my hunch is the electrics are OK, the relay and motor all seem to respond well on the button and pass basic continuity tests.

All I can think is to replace the springs and give everything a clean up. Any other ideas?

[knoizy]

Update - while trying to improvise a rotor holder (anyone ever make a decent DIY one?) I spotted what looks like two cracks in the steel block of the starter clutch. No doubt that is my answer!

[Blaine]

Apr 18, 2018 7:43:48 GMT -6 knoizy said:

Update - while trying to improvise a rotor holder (anyone ever make a decent DIY one?) I spotted what looks like two cracks in the steel block of the starter clutch. No doubt that is my answer!

That is a common problem with the starter clutch.......I always sue a strap wrench.....If you use a impact gun to remove the bolt there is no need to hold flywheel.

[knoizy]

Thanks Blaine I must make friends with that impact wrench in the drawer! New starter clutch on the way, any advice on greasing the starter motor gears as the manual doesn't seem to mention it? When I removed the cover it was fully packed with thick old grease, replace with same amount of regular grease?

[Blaine]

Apr 19, 2018 6:49:11 GMT -6 knoizy said:

Thanks Blaine I must make friends with that impact wrench in the drawer! New starter clutch on the way, any advice on greasing the starter motor gears as the manual doesn't seem to mention it? When I removed the cover it was fully packed with thick old grease, replace with same amount of regular grease?

Never had any problems with my starter.....I would think that it should be reasonable clean......Maybe a bit of dielectric grease.

[hemi]

I think enough oil spashes areound inside the cover to lube the starter gear sufficiently.

[knoizy]

Those starter clutch hex bolts were heavily threadlocked and didn't want to move without a blow torch. I figured that given the old unit was cracked I could safely grip it in the vice without risking any damage to the flywheel and then went through the torque wrench, impact driver and air wrench before the bit threatened to round off the nut. Anyway they come out relatively easy once hot but I was also worried about heating up the magnet epoxy so kept dipping the whole assembly in water in between. As mentioned I don't have the Kawasaki flywheel holder but I'm still convinced the hex bolts would have rounded out long before the bolts moved. 

[eaglerider]

Strap wrench is best to use on the flywheel. the bolts for the starter clutch are normally put on with a dab of locktite (blue, not red), to keep them from backing out due to vibration, etc. If there was a lot of locktite, apparently, someone has had it off or replaced prior to this. Hopefully, the heat you applied will not effect the magnet epoxy. Flywheels, even good used ones, are not cheap.

[hemi]

I didn’t use any puller on mine to get it off.  I decided to apply a little heat with a propane torch to ease the process.  i Didn’t know that the shaft was tapered so when the rotor expanded the tiniest bit, it popped right off.  I never even picked up the pully puller.  I figure I was about half way to the temp I wanted and there was a ping sound and the pully literally jumped a fraction of an inch when the tension was released.  Then it lifted right off.  But I would suggest if you do this while the engine is upright and in the bike that you put something soft underneath because it may jump right off the shaft and to the concrete.  It did not require a lot of heat so no stress on the epoxy.  It might have even been cool enough to pick up with bare hands on the outside, but I’m not stupid enough to risk it when there is a rag nearby.