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Post by BenInPA on Feb 13, 2013 22:03:53 GMT -6
Zekk, they are coming along nice. I am definately not that savy with soldering. Id be interested in buying 2 of these if you are willing to make/sell them. That is when you get the final design done of course. I would really be interested in the brake/tail light conversion and the addition for toolbox. Once your design is complete let us know. Hope you would be willing to make and sell some.
Nice job..
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Post by eaglerider on Feb 14, 2013 8:05:09 GMT -6
Looks good....you could probably put the leds in a circular pattern, and the light might even look better, maybe?
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Post by zekkfett on Feb 14, 2013 11:28:26 GMT -6
Zekk, they are coming along nice. I am definately not that savy with soldering. Id be interested in buying 2 of these if you are willing to make/sell them. That is when you get the final design done of course. I would really be interested in the brake/tail light conversion and the addition for toolbox. Once your design is complete let us know. Hope you would be willing to make and sell some. Nice job.. Yeah, I might be looking to sell a few, once I get a good design down.. I think for the next few weeks, I'll be concentrating on the brake light. That's more of a safety concern for me. I made a post last summer showing some preliminary designs, and possibly some for sale, no one seemed all that interested..... So I just put that project on the back burner and just rode. (And also started brewing my own beer.)
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Post by zekkfett on Feb 14, 2013 11:45:37 GMT -6
Looks good....you could probably put the leds in a circular pattern, and the light might even look better, maybe? If you take your signal lenses off, you'll see all the metal in there. I'm designing these to be a direct replacement with as little modification as possible (so far you only have to bend one metal tab, and shave a tiny bit of plastic off the backside of the lenses where the screw holes are). So all the solder points need to sit in the free space in there. I would love for it to be round, just doesn't work that way with the housings the way they are. So a square grid was my answer. And a 5 X 6 grid was the biggest I could do. As I've said, this one is just a prototype, and I've discovered a few issues, and soon it will be time to build a second prototype. This one has been connected to a spare computer power supply for the last few weeks, and it's still going strong. I think I'm going to put the signals on the back burner for a bit, and concentrate on the brake light. That's the safety concern for me.
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Post by BenInPA on Feb 14, 2013 14:06:00 GMT -6
Its far better project for than for me. Like I said im not too savy with soldering. Soldering a wire to a terminal I can do, but circuit boards and that, im lost. Lol once you get a solid design down for the brake light and the extra one on the toolbox I am definately interested in purchasing it. Keep us posted on the progress. Good luck...
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Post by zekkfett on Feb 14, 2013 20:03:02 GMT -6
Its far better project for than for me. Like I said im not too savy with soldering. Soldering a wire to a terminal I can do, but circuit boards and that, im lost. Lol once you get a solid design down for the brake light and the extra one on the toolbox I am definately interested in purchasing it. Keep us posted on the progress. Good luck... Sent from my DROID3 using proboards Depending on when the parts I'm waiting for come in from Asia (and my hectic work schedule), it'll most likely be a good month before I have a tail/brake prototype finished. With what I've learned from the turn signal, I expect the brake to be a fully working unit. Ready to bolt in and dial in the exact brightness of the parking lights with a temporary rheostat (variable resistor); then with a permanent fixed value resistor. When I do have a perfect circuit board shaped for the first tail light, I'm going to trace it out at least a few more times (for me anyway, the hardest part was the trimming of the board to fit in there just perfectly), because my bike's twin wants one too, and I'll also be doing one for a 88 Vulcan (slightly different shape); both are here locally in my town, and family. Before I do any of that though, I'll do the testing phase on mine, because I just CAN'T sell someone something that isn't going to last, or doesn't work like I say it will. But rest assured, there will be extra 454 LED tail arrays just sitting on my desk...... I can't exactly throw out a price yet, I'll just have to see what I have in them. I'll hook anyone here up with one at cost, plus shipping, once I have them built and tested, and probably just a TINY portion to me for my time, as these do take hours to build. And I do plan on keeping tabs on the build as I go. I'll post specs, and pics, and all that; as it happens. As I said, I'm kinda in a holding pattern here, waiting for parts from Asia.
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Post by BenInPA on Feb 14, 2013 20:54:28 GMT -6
Sounds like a plan. I understand waiting for parts. That's the worst part about ordering anything out of country, it takes forever in shipping. Normally it is a lot cheaper tho. Whenever you get thing's done works. Once it get's riding season don't be spending all your riding time working on these. lol Gotta get out there and ride!
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Post by BenInPA on Feb 14, 2013 20:56:49 GMT -6
Hey Zekk, just curious. What was a rough cost for the MMI schooling total? I see you graduated from MMI for motorcycle. That interests me but not sure if I can fit it in with work and still pay the mortgage.
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Post by zekkfett on Feb 15, 2013 0:44:18 GMT -6
Once it get's riding season don't be spending all your riding time working on these. lol Gotta get out there and ride! Oh don't worry, that's a non-issue. ;D
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Post by zekkfett on Feb 15, 2013 0:55:08 GMT -6
Hey Zekk, just curious. What was a rough cost for the MMI schooling total? I see you graduated from MMI for motorcycle. That interests me but not sure if I can fit it in with work and still pay the mortgage. They were hardcore recruiting when I went, the student populations were really down, and I was just coming out of high school. I got them to work with me on a deal for the Marine and Motorcycle courses , essentially back to back. They also have shorter courses where you specialize in one make or another, those cost extra. If you live near a campus, you might be able to work and go to school; if not, it's kinda something you have to take time out in your life for, to travel to a campus, rent an apt., etc.... Between MMI, WyoTech (Auto), and a local tech school here called Lincoln Institute of Technology (Diesel), I've got about $25,000 wrapped up in schooling. But when it comes to the amount of money I have spent for vehicles, and how much I've saved in labor costs, it's well worth it to me. If you can get a student loan, you can defer the payments over the course of 10 years. Some technical schools meet the criteria for student loans....
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Post by BenInPA on Feb 15, 2013 16:07:47 GMT -6
I found an led 1157 bulb on the walmart website. Could a small bulb have what it needs in it to stay lit and a fluctuation in power? I just searched for "led" in auto.
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Post by BenInPA on Feb 15, 2013 17:23:24 GMT -6
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Post by Blaine on Feb 15, 2013 18:20:06 GMT -6
Tryied to have a look.It says "page doesn't exist".
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Post by BenInPA on Feb 15, 2013 19:42:29 GMT -6
Ok I'll try this one. See if this works for you. www.walmart.com/ip/StreetGlow-LED-1157-Brake-Tail-Light-Bulb-Red/21631629Maybe that will work. It doesn't give much information about the bulb. Just curious what your opinion of it was. I even tried the streetglow website and it doesn't give any more information about the bulb. It seems walmart sells 1156 bulbs, 3156 and 3157 bulbs. They are all replacement bulbs for brak/tail light's on cars. I am guessing that the charging system on a car is going to be 12.6 or better as opposed to our bike the changes.
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Post by zekkfett on Feb 15, 2013 20:07:43 GMT -6
Those don't look regulated to me. Given that they were prob designed for a car @ 12.6, it would be a gamble. More likely to overvolt than undervolt without a regulator.
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Post by BenInPA on Feb 15, 2013 20:32:31 GMT -6
Yeah I figured something along those lines. Was just curious about them.
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Post by zekkfett on Apr 8, 2013 23:59:48 GMT -6
Valve adjustment = done @ 9,000 miles. Also flushed the cooling system, pure SeaFoamed the carb bowls, and replaced the water pipe bolts with allen head bolts. Also got to adjusting the back brakes. Whole process took about 2 1/2 hours: nOObs, don't be afraid of the valve adjustment. Coupe leaks after the adjustment, but a few days later, tighten some hose clamps, and it's all good.
I can get past 8,500 revs now! ;D
Mileage comparison of before and after valve adjustment to come.
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Post by zekkfett on May 9, 2013 19:58:54 GMT -6
So, after 3 tankfuls, I've got some MPG data: Pre-valve adjustment: I was averaging around 47 MPG, on the 3 tankfuls before the adjustment. Post-valve adjustment: I am now back to averaging 53 MPG, more like it was when I first got the bike. So guys, if you keep good track of your mileage, and you ride about the same way all the time; when your mileage starts to fall, it's prob time to adjust the valves. The valves were last adjusted on mine a little over 3,500 miles ago @ a Kawi dealer, and I lost 6 MPG average over the course of those 3,500 miles, and the power I could tell was starting to fall off. Although they did adjust them to the low end of the range, I called and confirmed that. So if you adjust to the low end, you're prob gonna get 3,500 miles or so before they need it again. High end, prob 5,000 or more. Only time will tell, because I plan on collecting data and keeping track of my mileage till then.
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Post by eaglerider on May 9, 2013 21:44:22 GMT -6
5 to 6 thousand miles between adjustments....adjust to higher values. Fuel mileage will be determined on how the bike is ridden....ride it "hard" mileage will be crummy.......riden "nice" results in best mileage......but with this bike, it is SO HARD not to get "twisty" with the throttle!!! LOL
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Post by zekkfett on May 9, 2013 23:23:11 GMT -6
5 to 6 thousand miles between adjustments....adjust to higher values. Fuel mileage will be determined on how the bike is ridden....ride it "hard" mileage will be crummy.......riden "nice" results in best mileage......but with this bike, it is SO HARD not to get "twisty" with the throttle!!! LOL I keep my riding style the same all the time, gas mileage is my goal in riding this bike. My routes are the same to and from work, the only variable really, is outside air temperature. Just trying to throw some evidence on the valve adjustments up here for these guys, when to tell when it may be needed, MPG, benefits, ~ how many miles between adjustments on the low end...
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Post by eaglerider on May 11, 2013 6:31:58 GMT -6
My post was just general info for all memebers that might read this thread, wasn't "pointing to you....you are not a "new" rider, nor totaly new to this bike.
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