mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Nov 12, 2011 17:07:08 GMT -6
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Post by eaglerider on Nov 12, 2011 17:16:18 GMT -6
Checked/adjusted the valves?? Very important.
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Nov 12, 2011 18:42:32 GMT -6
planning on it, this was sold to me a "basket case" so the first thing i wanted to check was to make sure the engine was free. several parts missing, like the starter gear?
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Nov 14, 2011 8:58:31 GMT -6
bike had no front fender when I bought it and i know teh fender in vital for control. is that just to keep teh fort tube in line or does the fender provide some sort of wind control? i ask because i am considering just making a bent flat iron strap to connect the tubes to maintain that fender less look and keep everything under control. this will primarily be my ride to work bike which is 30 miles one way on the interstate.
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Post by wanchesenative on Nov 14, 2011 10:17:08 GMT -6
I'm not certain but I think you can use some sort of fenderless tie in. However, you might want to consider the fact that without a fender, if you come across an even damp road, much water will be thrown over the front of the bike by the front tire without a fender to stop it.
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Nov 14, 2011 11:16:35 GMT -6
true..........hmmm
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jp
Junior Member
Posts: 188
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Post by jp on Nov 14, 2011 14:47:40 GMT -6
There are usually pretty reasonable fenders on E Bay
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Nov 14, 2011 15:34:45 GMT -6
yeah....but i like the look........going to play around with some ideas
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Feb 29, 2012 9:02:01 GMT -6
This build is taking on a mind of it's own and i think the name will go back to Zombie Hunter. i was able to do a little work this weekend and discovered that the starter clutch is out, so i need to research that now. also found that someone tried to rebuild the carbs. why is it people do not take there time and pay attention to what they are doing when assembling CV carbs? both diaphragms where pinched under the caps and tore. need to source some new parts for that. well i guess i will go ahead and post some pics of what i have so far. reworked rear frame section. rear fender mock up Exhaust mock up, stock sporster pipes i had from my Porky Pig tech days. will see how it sounds but i will probably cut the baffles out. Front turns/markers, now i find out that these are single filament bulbs, i was sure when i ordered them that they dual and they have two wires so i just assumed they where self grounding.
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Post by lordnor on Apr 2, 2012 10:30:23 GMT -6
Nice, what size fender did you use on the rear there?
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Apr 3, 2012 8:16:25 GMT -6
i think it is 8 inch wide, got it at tractor supply, just a trailer fender.
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eman2282
Junior Member
"Life's a Journey, not a destination"
Posts: 235
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Post by eman2282 on May 13, 2012 12:23:30 GMT -6
Nice welds that fenders not going anywhere. I like the turn signal placement especially.
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on May 14, 2012 11:55:31 GMT -6
thanks man, that is actually there for support, it really added a lot to the rebuilt rear section, the fender with be swing arm mounted. those light mounts are hinge brackets off a T600 Kenworth, something my dad had laying around, that's how we built in central KS, with what ever is laying around LOL. starter clutch and some other parts should be here this week, i picked up a set of heritage tanks for 75 bucks over the weekend, mid 90's the nice screw in ratcheting caps, on dent in the right hand tank, looks like it should come out rather nicely. can't wait to see how they look on here. a lot left to do, but i am hoping have the fab work all done this next month and then i can bring it home and finish up the details in the driveway, sucks not having a garage.
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eman2282
Junior Member
"Life's a Journey, not a destination"
Posts: 235
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Post by eman2282 on May 18, 2012 18:59:33 GMT -6
not having work space was a big set back for me too, I have a car port now but all my tools are in the basement. I was wrenching on mine today and must have made a dozen trips down stairs.
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Post by robertg on May 20, 2012 20:05:24 GMT -6
Those light mounts are hinge brackets off a T600 Kenworth, something my dad had laying around, that's how we built in central KS, with what ever is laying around LOL. That's how we do it in SE Kansas as well ;D
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Aug 10, 2012 10:22:53 GMT -6
headed up to my rents this weeknd, but doubt i have much wrench time. i did get my tank mounts so i might throw that all together and see how they sit on there. i was hoping to get some work down in September, but that month is starting to look busy. I think one solid weekend of fabing and I could have it rode worthy, not running, but rode worthy.
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Aug 10, 2012 10:26:30 GMT -6
so...Freeze dents out or pull em??? what would you all suggest? it is one dent on the radius of a flat side Porky Pig tank (dropped it looks like).
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Post by chopperfreak2k1 on Aug 10, 2012 23:10:40 GMT -6
i'm not familiar with freezing dents
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Post by zekkfett on Aug 10, 2012 23:18:16 GMT -6
If you have a Painless Dent Repair facility in your area, you could give that a try; they really can work miracles sometimes. They pop them out from the inside, if you want to go that route. In my area, they travel the car lots making their money.
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Aug 10, 2012 23:43:59 GMT -6
There's a few diy options, or use the pros like Zekk suggests.
Freezing it out will only work on a flat spot if you're anywhere near a crease sadly it wont work. For those that don't know the technique if you spray compressed air in a can all on the dent then quickly take a torch to it the dent pops itself out, from the fast shrinking and expanding of the metal.
Those as seen on tv dent pullers surprisingly work, but you can fab it yourself get a hot glue gun epoxy stick, and screw a washer to the end of a dowel or old broom stick, run some epoxy all over the washer, apply it right to the middle of the dent hold it in place about a minute til it dries then give it a yank.
Depending on where it is in the tank, you can enter the gas tank with a large wooden cooking spoon and push it out with a sliding across the dent motion, pushing hard in the middle sometimes makes a small divot in the middle after it is pushed out, sliding it out seems to work better to avoid that.
Yet another option is sand and rough up the dent a little, mix up some body filler slap it on there pretty close but still a little more than needed then sand it smooth and repaint, which I assume you'd be doing anyway.
I wouldn't go super old school and drill it out attach a screw and pull it out then fill it, but that's also an option.
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Post by zekkfett on Aug 11, 2012 6:09:42 GMT -6
The Painless guys are trained really well; they work dents from the inside and out. They are trained in the "science" of dents, they know just where bend, and what needs popped. I've used them a couple times, both times small dents in motorcycle gas tanks, that needed zero paint or filler afterwards. Never cost me more than 30 bucks, although I am an auto technician at a major dealership; so that might have gotten my cost down a tiny bit. They are also able to work miracles in the radius' of the tank. Where I am, they are really the only option, because 95% of body shops here won't touch MC gas tanks; not for dents anyway.
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Aug 13, 2012 9:13:08 GMT -6
after reading through that and after doing some thinking on the whole bike over the weekend, i think i will just see about having a body shop do it. I decided i am going to have all the tins pro painted so i just as well have them do the prep work. thanks all for the advise. I walked off and left my tank mounts at home, so i didn;t get to see how they looked. But i am trying to plan another "mad Fab" weekend to try and finish it up. it;s finally starting to cool down so i can stand to work out side now and can do the wiring in my driveway. maybe this winter will stay mild enough to ride it some
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Aug 15, 2012 22:10:12 GMT -6
I'd hate to see the warmer season pass on you before you get to ride it. It's a good call to have the body shop do it since they are painting them anyway, it shouldn't add much to the over all cost too since they have to prep anyways.
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Aug 16, 2012 10:24:08 GMT -6
Yeah, that's what I thought too. yeah we will see, i still haven't settled on a weekend to go get everything finished on the ab side. i am sure there will be riding time this winter. though they are predicting lower then normal temps.
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Aug 29, 2012 9:18:06 GMT -6
okay, I will be finishing the major fab work this weekend and then the old girl is coming home. Dad has his 440 running, need to get mine running too.
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Sept 5, 2012 8:02:14 GMT -6
built the battery box/inner fender. decided not to extend the rear fender at this time, I just really like how it looks. got the exhaust one, I need to post pics of that. Out of all the the mods I have done, I think the exhaust has turned out the best. I used a set of stock lower mid 2000 soft tail mufflers I had laying around. I cut the down pipes in front of the cross pipe and cut the mufflers behind their cross ports and then cut a couple of pieces of straight exhaust pipe, slit them and slide it all together. makes some nice brackets to hold the pipes off the passenger peg mounts and was done. Ordered some tan exhaust wrap yesterday and need to get some clamps. we started mounting the flat side tanks and then stopped. we got to a stage where we could hold both up and from the front the bike just looked ridiculous. Imagine a stripper with a 24 inch waist, 34DDD, missing a tooth and only stands 4 foot tall......yeah, it was just bad. and it was so wide at the seat that it would have been terrible to ride. we sat the stock tank back on and I have to say that it just looks right. I am going to clean it out, have the dent fixed, get it painted and then put that sealer stuff in it (it leaks along the seams) the bike is home and i am hoping to start putting the carbs and pods on tonight. I need to barrow a puller to do the starter clutch and then I should be ready to put some fluid in it and try and fire the old girl up.
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Post by Blaine on Sept 5, 2012 15:51:19 GMT -6
Make sure you have the proper 18mm puller.
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Sept 6, 2012 6:41:17 GMT -6
i was going to ask if there was a specific one, do you have a link to a pic of one? I was thinking i would just hit auto zone and see what they had for loan, buying one does not bother me either, if i can find one. Here is a crappy pic i grabbed as i was backing out this morning (don't worry, tires are on the ground and I kicked it a few times from each side to make sure it would not fall over lol) I am really happy with how the pipes fit. I may end up putting the short shocks on, i still feel like it sits too high. and the tank looks good, but i am curious about trying a peanut tank on it (just not sure if i want the lose of fuel capacity. ) Also, so far i really like how the bars feel, but i think they could sit about 4 inches higher, need to see if i can find a new set with the same curve, i have plenty of cable and wire length.
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Post by eaglerider on Sept 6, 2012 8:57:41 GMT -6
the puller can be found on ebay for about 15 bucks....Autozone will not have it...any other type can damage the flywheel, which is expensive to replace. Be careful about lifting the bike with the jack on the exhaust....the header pipes will break up close to the engine...they cannot take the weight very well. O, and I liked the swingarm mounted fender with the one with the lights mounted look, better. And I would go with the shorter shocks. Just my ideas.
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mradam
Junior Member
Posts: 214
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Post by mradam on Sept 6, 2012 10:18:01 GMT -6
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