Brakes will not Bleed.

[kawbobber]

I know some people have had problems with these but I am my situation is a little different.
I have bleed the brakes and no air comes out now but the calibers will not engage. fluid is going thru because as ai was bleeding it with a bleeder valve I can see the fluid coming out. bottom he brakes still are soft nothing moves.
Any ideas.

[eaglerider]

The master cylinder must be bled first, then the line and caliper can be bled the conventional way. The total system cannot be bled properly in the conventional way.

[kawbobber]

How do yuo bleed the master? I do not see a bleed valve.

[Blaine]

Jan 12, 2012 18:35:35 GMT -6 kawbobber said:

How do yuo bleed the master? I do not see a bleed valve.

You crack the line open at the master cylinder.

[eaglerider]

At the master cylinder/hose connection.... pump up the master cylinder a few times, loosen the hose connection, then snug the bolt....repeat until no air bubbles.....then move on to pumping up and loosening the bleeder valve on the caliper, in the conventional way of bleeding....u may have to have someone help u, as it is almost impossible for one person to pump the master cylinder and doi the bleeder valve, too.

[tinlizzie37]

I have had good luck bleeding brakes with a clean pump type oil can, with a piece of hose wired onto the end. Take out all the fluid or most of it from the master cylinder and crack the caliper bleeder and start pumping with clean fluid inside. For duel cylinders, start with the furthest away. It's always worked for me, even in the cars. It takes all th3e air out and fills the master cylinder with clean fluid. Bob

[kawbobber]

Eagle do I do this with the cap on the master cylinder or with the cap off?

[Blaine]

Jan 13, 2012 11:18:03 GMT -6 kawbobber said:

Eagle do I do this with the cap on the master cylinder or with the cap off?

Better with the cover on.Less chance of brake fluid getting splashed onto painted parts.Paint & brake fluid don't mix.

[Reebo]

If the master cylinder had always stayed full of fluid you would be good to go on it.. did it go empty at some point?

is this a brake pad replacement job here ? if the caliper has been reset - then the brakes must be applied several times before the pads get close enought to the rotor before they become tight. need the full story.

You would do the operation with the cap off - making sure that there is always fluid in the master keep topping it off. if you are gentle it will not splash - or just put a rag over it ( clean ) do not contaminate the fluid with anything.

[kawbobber]

Reebo I drained the fluid is why it ran out So now I keep pumping and bleeding like everyone has told me but I get no more air bubbles and the brakes still won't engage the caliber is not stuck either. I think I am stumped.
Not sure what to try now, do yuo have any ideas.

[zekkfett]

Jan 18, 2012 12:25:59 GMT -6 kawbobber said:

I think I am stumped.
Not sure what to try now, do yuo have any ideas.

If you can find a way to pump or push the fluid up to the Master Cylinder through the bleeder on the caliper, that would push all the air up and out, if there were any. Used to use a GIANT syringe for these jobs...

Then bleed as normal, although doing it this way, there was usually no air for me.

[mradam]

is their any place where the hose loops or flattens out, generally near the fender. air can become stuck here, fluid can seep pass and push out the bleeder valve, looking like the system is bled. i try to shake or tap the line with a wrench while working the handle, cover you tank with a towel and watch the reservoir. you may start seeing more bubbles come through, keep shaking or tapping. back bleeding helps prevent this, but if you don't have the tools, your have to do it the hard way. not sure where you are from, but locally there are a few auto parts stores that let you rent tools like air bleeders.

[Moriarte]

Ugh, this brings back painful memories...

I ended up taking someone's advice on here and after I bled the master cylinder, and then bled the line until I couldn't get any more air, I sucked a little of the fluid out of the Master so it wasn't filled to the top, but it was still full enough to cover all the ports, and then turned the bike on and let it run for 5 or 6 minutes.

Shut it off, left the master cylinder cover off with a clean rag draped over it, and went inside the house for an hour.

Came back out, bled the line again (not the cylinder, just the line), and repeated this process three times. After the third time, I had solid pedal. The bike vibration helped jar the air in the lines, and then sitting as long as it did, the air rose to the top and into the Master.

It's worth a try.

-Mori

[mradam]

i used that same method for large cooling systems back in my ag tech days, fill the tank, drive the truck around the yard fast and hard (more bumps the better) repeat lol.

[tinlizzie37]

Try pumping from the calipers up like I mentioned prior. It has always worked for me. Bob

[bikerdave]

Bleeding front brake lines do take ALOT of pumping. I did mine last year took like 100 pumps to get it started .put your cap on it helps to build pressure and push the air out.make sure you don't let the master run dry, if you take the master off you can put it on a broomstick and sit right in front of the bleeder(I'm lazy) ;D

[zekkfett]

Feb 7, 2012 21:02:13 GMT -6 bikerdave said:

if you take the master off you can put it on a broomstick and sit right in front of the bleeder(I'm lazy) ;D

That's not lazy; that's working smarter, not harder.

[pya977]

just another quick tip which always works for me
when i bleed the the front brake, get as much air out of the system as you can then tierap or tape the lever as far as it will go to the handlebar grip ie as you would when braking and leave over night, next day you will have a good brake
nice and simple