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Post by unclewray on Feb 21, 2012 21:34:23 GMT -6
My son & I are "restoring" an '87 EN450A3.
Front MC doesn't return the lever far enuf to turn off the brake light, seems due for a MC rebuild.
Can't find a kit after quite a bit of Web searching. Any ideas or parts cross reference?
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Post by Blaine on Feb 21, 2012 21:46:12 GMT -6
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Apr 26, 2012 18:51:17 GMT -6
I rebuilt mine not long ago, and had a hard time with the piston in there...the plastic clip is what holds it in instead of a snap ring. So to get the piston out a pair of needle nose lock pliers and some good twisting as you pull will get it outta there if the big washer is stuck like mine was.
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Post by webster26 on Mar 27, 2013 13:29:38 GMT -6
I am in the process of fixing my front brakes. I finally got the screws out of the MC after some trouble, and the tank was empty. I cleaned the residue out and noticed the plastic plug on the front is cracked, and now broken. I looked at the parts layout on ron ayers and did not see a part # for it. Is this a generic piece that I can get anywhere? Or where can I find a new plug to replace it?
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Post by Blaine on Mar 27, 2013 13:53:44 GMT -6
If you mean the sight glass,I've seen the them on E-bay once in awhile.   |
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Post by webster26 on Mar 27, 2013 14:11:35 GMT -6
I didnt realize that was what I meant, but after continuing to read other posts I found that out and it makes sense. The one that was broken was definitely not glass, but a yellowish brown plastic plug. I found some on ebay and they say they come with instructions and new screws (which I need) but I am concerned with the seal.
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Post by webster26 on Mar 27, 2013 14:40:38 GMT -6
On second thought, since I can just get the screws at any hardware store and I dont really want to pay for / wait for a piece of glass in the mail, is there anything else that you can use as a sight glass? I read about using a nickel, but still want to be able to see through it.
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Post by zekkfett on Mar 27, 2013 18:29:56 GMT -6
I would stick with the stock clear style. That way when you do your daily walk-around inspections, you'll be able to EASILY see into it. It would be a pain to take the cap off every single time you ride, to inspect your fluid level.....
Remember, a bike only has 2 brakes, and if something goes wrong with the front brake, you're relying on the rear to stop you, and it won't do that very effectively. The last thing you want is to not be able to see how much fluid you have, have it leak out, and then realizing @ 55mph that you have no front brake, when you need to make an emergency stop.
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 30, 2013 18:36:29 GMT -6
Hey Webster, did ya get new screws for your Mac yet? If you are in the US I'll send ya 4 of them. I bought a bag of stainless Allen head screws of eBay and have a bunch of them. If your interested, send me a pm with your Addy.
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Post by webster26 on Apr 1, 2013 11:05:46 GMT -6
Ben, I appreciate it, but I went ahead and ordered a new sight glass that came with a couple new screws. Should have it all fixed up this week assuming there is nothing else wrong. Thanks again.
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Post by eaglerider on Apr 1, 2013 14:43:39 GMT -6
Screws came with the sight glass?  ? The sight glass does not have any screws. Did u order the correct part??? |
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Post by Blaine on Apr 1, 2013 15:10:28 GMT -6
Screws came with the sight glass? ? The sight glass does not have any screws. Did u order the correct part??? I think they are cover screws.  |
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Post by webster26 on Apr 1, 2013 15:22:36 GMT -6
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Post by Blaine on Apr 1, 2013 16:51:03 GMT -6
The kit comes with new ones because the old ones are usually all stripped. |
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Post by eaglerider on Apr 1, 2013 17:49:03 GMT -6
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 1, 2013 17:50:46 GMT -6
Yeah they are usually stripped. Mine were so tight when I tried to get them out I started to strip 1 of them. Decided to stop and try something else so I didn't strip it totally. I ended up using the dremel and cutting a flat groove in the head. Then I was able to put a big flat blade in and break em loose. Now I got the Allen ones so I don't have to worry about it.
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Post by Blaine on Apr 1, 2013 18:15:17 GMT -6
   Oooops..... .. OK....now, that's nice of them to send new screws, too. ;D |
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 8, 2013 14:30:37 GMT -6
Blaine or eagle, is there another way to drain the fluid from the mc other than the line connection? Would opening the bleeder on the piston and pressing the handle a couple times push it out that way? I just see a big mess coming when I remove the hose connection to rebuild the mc.
Also when I bleed the brakes I know we have to bleed the mc first. Do I do this by cracking the line connection open? It seems when I crack that open the fluid is going to run right down the hose and all over the place. Lol That's what I am trying to avoid. If that's what's gonna happen no matter how I do it ill just line the area with junk towels.
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Post by Blaine on Apr 8, 2013 14:43:37 GMT -6
Yep on both questions,Ben. I always bleed the old fluid through the bleeder.When you crack the line at the MC it will only take a couple of small pumps to expel any air in the MC. |
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 8, 2013 15:59:05 GMT -6
When I bleed the brakes, how do I know when I get all the air out? Is it like a car, when I pump the pedal (squeeze the handle) several times I will always have good handle not soft? I know with a car I bleed them and pump them until I get good pedal all the time. I am guessing it would be the same right? If I pump it a bunch of times and don't get soft handle I should be good right?
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Post by Blaine on Apr 8, 2013 17:34:40 GMT -6
Yep you are correct. |
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 8, 2013 20:17:03 GMT -6
I have the front wheel off to replace the bearings. A friend of mine has a bearing puller so gotta wait till Wednesday to finish that. If I put a board in the brake caliper in place of the brake disc I should be able to bleed the brakes that way correct? I am at a standstill on the bearings until wednesday and want to make use of the time somewhere else.should make a difference if its the disc or a board right? As long as I put something in the so I don't push the caliper out. Then I am pretty sure I am screwed. I don't want to have to rebuild the caliper too.
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Post by zekkfett on Apr 8, 2013 20:56:20 GMT -6
I have the front wheel off to replace the bearings. A friend of mine has a bearing puller so gotta wait till Wednesday to finish that. If I put a board in the brake caliper in place of the brake disc I should be able to bleed the brakes that way correct? I am at a standstill on the bearings until wednesday and want to make use of the time somewhere else.should make a difference if its the disc or a board right? As long as I put something in the so I don't push the caliper out. Then I am pretty sure I am screwed. I don't want to have to rebuild the caliper too. Sent from my DROID4 using proboards In theory, that might be ok..... Leave the pads in, and try to find a piece of aluminum to steel about the same thickness as the rotor. I'd be afraid that a piece of wood that thin, would crack or shatter under the pressure of the piston...  |
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 8, 2013 22:06:34 GMT -6
I was actually thinking of the metal I have in the garage. I have some panels from an old heater. They are heavy gauge steel. Was gonna put 2-3 pieces of that together to sandwich in it.
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Post by Blaine on Apr 8, 2013 22:15:24 GMT -6
I was actually thinking of the metal I have in the garage. I have some panels from an old heater. They are heavy gauge steel. Was gonna put 2-3 pieces of that together to sandwich in it. Yep.That will work. |
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Post by webster26 on Apr 9, 2013 13:32:09 GMT -6
Yep on both questions,Ben. I always bleed the old fluid through the bleeder.When you crack the line at the MC it will only take a couple of small pumps to expel any air in the MC. Is there a bleeder valve at the MC? I have looked all around it and cannot find one. I have read a bunch that I have to bleed the MC first, just not sure how. Sorry if this is redundant, I just need some clarification. |
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Post by Blaine on Apr 9, 2013 14:05:52 GMT -6
No bleeder at the master cylinder.Just crack the line at the MC & wrap a cloth around the fitting & pump the lever slowly3 or 4 times to expell any air than tighten the line & bleed at the caliber. |
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 9, 2013 16:13:26 GMT -6
I rebuilt the MC today. It is actually pretty easy to do. The hardest part was the bleeding. Seems like it took forever to do. I think part of my issue was I had the caliper hooked up. It had a slight upward bend in it. It was holding air there. Once I straightened the line it only took a few minutes to finish the bleed. Blaine is right about no bleed valve on the Mac. When you back the hose bolt out, it has a small hole thru the center and out neat the head of the bolt. Crack it open until you see the hole then your good to go. Blaine, my old piston was starting to pit. Now that I got it rebuilt I got good handle and it springs back fully. The new piston I got is slightly different from the old one. It is the same shape and size, but between the 2 o-rings the old one was smooth. The new one has a spiral twists between the 2 o-rings. Maybe its a newer design that helps with flow? Bleeding the old fluid from the bleeder at the bottom was the best, thanks Blaine. Webster, a couple things I've figured out bleeding and have been told here to remember. Keep your brake line straight as possible. Don't hang it with the line curving up. (I did not do this ) make sure you put a piece of metal about 1/8" thick between the pads in case you squeeze the handle. (Don't want to rebuild the caliper too.) Other than that it was pretty easy to do. You can get the Mac rebuild kit on eBay for cheap. Sent from my DROID4 using proboards |
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Post by kremlon on May 8, 2013 7:39:38 GMT -6
Webster,
that sight glass work out for you? i just ordered the exact same one from ebay and was wondering if there are any hiccups to expect.
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? The sight glass does not have any screws. Did u order the correct part???
Oooops..... 