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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Jul 15, 2012 18:02:14 GMT -6
Hi all, Here is my '86 454 LTD, "a Work in Progress." The bike was originally purchased by my father you intended to get back into riding after being on hitateus for a "few" years. He was looking for something cheap to get started again before diving into a BMW bike (1150R) he's been lusting over... Anyway, he hasn't done much riding and now I'm taking the reins on this one! It only has 6k miles. There are some issues with the bike, but I'm working them one by one. Here it is: The only mods are a T-Bags sissy bar bag (replaces the OE plastic storage box and rear passenger back support) and the low-rise handlebars (done by the PO). I would like to bobber it... maybe one day.
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Post by biofish1 on Jul 15, 2012 20:12:43 GMT -6
Nice bike to start from I bought mine at 19k haha! Looks really clean. Keep us updated, I'd like to see what you do with it. See you around CT good luck.
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Jul 21, 2012 20:21:16 GMT -6
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Jul 26, 2012 21:25:49 GMT -6
Project for the storm ;D I replaced the airbox, because mine was cracked. Lesson learned about installing the airbox and carburetors. Install the intake boots into the airbox and secure them with those u-shaped cross-section rings. Install airbox into bike and push into the airbox the intake boots (mine were a friction fit). So the front of the airbox is flush and then install the carburetors. Once I got a hang of it, I installed the carbs in 15 minutes. Now question, on the back of the airbox is a nipple. Does anything connect to it, a hose? Is it just a drain for the airbox?
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Nov 20, 2012 22:29:19 GMT -6
Did a lot of maintenance this summer/fall on the bike... I picked up a RAM Mount for my iPhone. Also installed an accessory 12V outlet. Cleaned/rebuilt/fixed the instrument cluster and gauges; painted them satin black while I was at it. Next up, I'm painting the headlight shroud, headlight/turn signal mounts and the horn cover. Also satin black.
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Post by Blaine on Nov 20, 2012 22:41:55 GMT -6
Y :)e 8-)p.It's just a drain for the air box.
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Nov 21, 2012 9:19:32 GMT -6
Y :)e 8-)p.It's just a drain for the air box. Huh? The airbox thing I figured out a while ago, but thanks ;D
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Dec 1, 2012 23:54:53 GMT -6
Continued doing maintenance for next season... also I always hated the throttle on this bike. Specifically how much "turn" it required. So I modded the throttle tube with a zip-tie to reduce the requited turn. Now it's a quarter turn, from closed to full open.
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Post by chopperfreak2k1 on Dec 14, 2012 20:34:45 GMT -6
very sweet throttle mod! where do you live? i'd like to feel the difference it makes before committing to the mod.
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Dec 15, 2012 15:25:27 GMT -6
In CT, its not that dramatic of a difference Fitted a pair of savage shocks and lowered the front-end to compensate. FYI, lowering the bike with savage shocks (S40/LS650) will increase belt tension ~ 5 mm.
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Post by eaglerider on Dec 15, 2012 19:03:12 GMT -6
That is why we tell members to re-adjust the belt tension, when installing shorter shocks.
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Dec 16, 2012 11:33:13 GMT -6
That might seem the case at first glance... however look at this scenario:
Stock shock length (extended): 12.5" Stock shock length (compressed): 9.25" OE belt tension (bike on center stand, 10 lbs pressure on top belt run, halfway between sprockets): 8.5 - 18 mm
Savage shock length (extended): 10.5" Stock shock length (compressed): ?
Maximum belt tension occurs when the output shaft, swingarm pivot and rear axle are in alignment (horizontally). Theoretically, if the stock shock allows the swingarm to travel to and/or thru this horizontal alignment. Then installing shorter shocks will not require re-adjustment of belt tension (from the original setting with stock shocks). Why? Because the belt will not get any tighter than it would have in the original configuration (stock shocks).
I need to go back and see if at a shock length of 9.25" (stock, compressed) what the alignment of those points looks like. If the rear axle is at or higher than the output/swingarm pivot. Then my theory is correct, if it is below... then yes, the belt would need to be re-adjusted.
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Dec 16, 2012 19:16:10 GMT -6
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Post by eaglerider on Dec 20, 2012 15:50:53 GMT -6
Well, about the belt adjustment......adjust, or not to adjust....u can leave it as is, not check/adjust tension...if it is too tight, then down the road, u will either severly wear the front sprocket, and have to replace it, or, your belt will break...hopefully not leaveing u out in the middle of nowhere......and the belts are not cheap. I would say that an "ounce of prevention" by checking/adjusting belt tension, is a whole lot better than taking the risks of breaking an expensive belt (possibly leaving u stranded out on the road somewhere), or replacing the front sprocket.
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Dec 20, 2012 20:00:33 GMT -6
I measured the output shaft/swingarm pivot/rear axle alignment with the savage shocks (w/ MC on center stand) the rear axle was ~ 10 mm above that alignment that produces maximum belt tension. So my earlier theory was correct. Anyway, my little explanation diagram:
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Post by eaglerider on Dec 20, 2012 20:40:59 GMT -6
Do what ever you want.......I have many years experience with this bike, shorter shocks, many mods....I speak from experience, and a broken belt lesson in belt adjustment, myself. How many years experience do you have with the 454?? Not trying to be mean, just trying to help you, if my advise and experience is ignored, or seems usless to you, I am sorry...guess you will have to learn over time. We try to help on this forum, if that help is not wanted or ignored, we cannot force it on anyone, they just have to learn, sometimes the hard, and costly way. Many members have a lot of motorcycle experience, but little to none on this bike. I, and others, stand with our statements that the 454 is quite a bit different than other bikes.
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Post by Blaine on Dec 20, 2012 23:10:00 GMT -6
Often what looks good on paper doesn't work so well in the real world.When I went to shorter shocks I had to adjust the belt.Than later when I shortened the shocks further,adjusted the belt again.
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Dec 21, 2012 7:44:40 GMT -6
I appreciate everyone's feedback and knowledge, I wanted to discuss the merits of doing said adjustments. Discussion is a good thing...
Do you agree that the OE method of belt adjustment (8-18 mm on the top run of the belt with 10 lbs of force and the bike on its center stand) is correct?
If yes, then before the shock swap the belt was tensioned correctly (15 mm or ~9/16").
If no, then please elaborate.
Do you agree than the shock will compress once the bike is on the ground? With a rider onboard? With two riders onboard?
Do you measure belt tension in the above conditions?
How much does the stock shock compress once on the bike is on the ground, with a rider onboard, with two riders onboard?
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Post by Blaine on Dec 21, 2012 13:26:34 GMT -6
Yes,belt adjusted with all weight off the rear wheel.9/16" or a 1/4 turn of the belt.As the swing arm goes up ( shock compresses) the belt gets tighter.Same with shorter shocks.(swing arm is up farther).That's why free play is important.If belt is too tight & you hit a hard bump,you risk snapping the belt.
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Dec 21, 2012 13:52:16 GMT -6
Yes,belt adjusted with all weight off the rear wheel.9/16" or a 1/4 turn of the belt. Okay, so OE method is correct. As the swing arm goes up ( shock compresses) the belt gets tighter. Yes, however it only continues to tighten to a certain point (e.g. when the output shaft, swingarm pivot and rear axle are in horizontal alignment). So what happens when the rear axle passes that point of alignment and shock continues to compress… The belt now starts to loosen again, right? www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/beltadjust.phpSame with shorter shocks.(swing arm is up farther).That's why free play is important. If belt is too tight & you hit a hard bump, you risk snapping the belt. Yes, the swingarm is further up with savage shocks. In fact the rear axle sits ~ 10 mm above that horizontal alignment (maximum belt tension). So the belt will ONLY loosen as its compressed from its fully extended state. Whereas with the original shocks the axle was below that point. So the belt would tighten as the shocks compressed to some maximum value and then as the shocks continued to compress the belt tension would loosen to some value.
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Post by Blaine on Dec 21, 2012 14:53:09 GMT -6
Yep.I agree.You still need your free play to get past the Tightest point without problems.I have my shocks modified to 9 1/2" & ride two most of the time & have had no problems in 20000 miles.Also only had to adjust the belt once in that time.
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Jan 1, 2013 13:16:32 GMT -6
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Post by eaglerider on Jan 1, 2013 14:08:55 GMT -6
I like it!
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mayhem
New Member
It´s a very warm winter here n Croatia :) Let´s ride!
Posts: 67
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Post by mayhem on Jan 9, 2013 1:43:40 GMT -6
It´s just amazing in how good condition your bike is, it´s great!!!
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