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Post by nol on May 28, 2014 18:33:46 GMT -6
I bought an 88 454 ltd with a problem. It idled ok, but when i reved it up to max rpm, it bogged at 3500 rpm. It seemed like a fuel problem so cleaned the carbs several times without any results. I changed the coils, still no result. I found a thread on a dutch forum how to check if the problem is in the CDI. So i put the CDI in the freezer for several hours, and reinstalled it while it was still cold. Suddenly the bike ran perfect for a while untill the cdi heated up to normal temperature. I pulled it out again and heated the contacts with a soldering iron for approx 20seconds so that the tin on the inside melted for a second. I plugged the CDI back on the bike and it ran as good as new! Maybe this tip can help you out
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Post by eaglerider on May 29, 2014 6:10:28 GMT -6
Don't forget a good valve adjustment about every 5,000 to 6,000 miles.....these engines require it, to stay running right.
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Post by nol on May 29, 2014 7:02:20 GMT -6
I did that last week. Found a wonderfull "how to" somewhere on this forum.  |
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Post by fostinator21 on May 7, 2015 16:01:21 GMT -6
What is the cdi? This problem seems similar to mine
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Post by Blaine on May 7, 2015 18:20:55 GMT -6
What is the cdi? This problem seems similar to mine
Electronic control box.Right under the seat. |
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Post by fostinator21 on May 7, 2015 19:01:08 GMT -6
Would a faulty cdi affect a bike in WOT? Or in the mid to high ranges of the rpm? My bike runs great til about 6k rpm then it bogs and doesn't accelerate anymore. It runs well at low rpms and when I stay off the throttle. Could it be a carb tuning issue or does it sound like I may need new jets? The bike ran powerfully until I had the fuel petcock fixed as long with some other items described in another post
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Post by Blaine on May 7, 2015 19:20:56 GMT -6
Would a faulty cdi affect a bike in WOT? Or in the mid to high ranges of the rpm? My bike runs great til about 6k rpm then it bogs and doesn't accelerate anymore. It runs well at low rpms and when I stay off the throttle. Could it be a carb tuning issue or does it sound like I may need new jets? The bike ran powerfully until I had the fuel petcock fixed as long with some other items described in another post Sounds like a little dirt got into your Main Jets.Try some SeaFoam in the tank.May save you taking the carbs apart.  |
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Post by fostinator21 on May 7, 2015 19:48:20 GMT -6
Beautius, I'm glad it sounds like something minor . I'll pick up a can of seafoam and see how it goes. What should I check next if the seafoam doesn't work? Just in case I can't get ahold of u tomorrow morning
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Post by Blaine on May 7, 2015 21:18:55 GMT -6
Beautius, I'm glad it sounds like something minor . I'll pick up a can of seafoam and see how it goes. What should I check next if the seafoam doesn't work? Just in case I can't get ahold of u tomorrow morning It may take a few miles for the SeaFoam to work. (sometimes over night does the trick).You may end up pulling the carbs for a good cleaning.A in-line fuel filter is cheap insurance that your carbs stay clean. |
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Post by fostinator21 on May 8, 2015 0:23:15 GMT -6
Sweet, I will add the seafoam and ride around for like half a tank haha mainly cuz I've missed my bike xD
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Post by eaglerider on May 8, 2015 7:39:09 GMT -6
Check the valve adjustment....that effects how the engine runs and accelerates.
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Post by dave454 on Aug 18, 2015 12:27:25 GMT -6
I was having problems with my cdi box as well. No spark in the right cylinder. Coils, plugs and pulser coils all checked out ok. I tried the solder iron trick with no success but then I read somewhere, maybe in this forum that you can bake the cdi in the oven at 350 for 10 minutes to remove accumulated moisture. I tried that and darn if it didn't work! Bike runs great now but I'm stuck with a used cdi that I had ordered on ebay.
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Post by hemi on Jan 23, 2017 21:31:23 GMT -6
The CDI has electrolytic capacitors in them. They go bad. If your skilled with a soldering iron you could replace them. But if you going that far you could also replace the mosfets too. The caps I'm talking about are the caps made out of little aluminum cylinder cups with rubber sealing the end where the wires come out. You can get all those parts from mouser. Also you problem could be as simple a cold (bad) solder joints. Usually visible but sometimes hard to see. Just heat them with a soldering iron an tap in just a touch of fresh solder will fix all but the worst. By the way, you have to desolder the plug from the circuit board to get the board out. The conductors are mounded into the housing and can't be removed. Try to get it apart without desoldering will certainly break something.
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