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Post by flatblack on Jun 12, 2012 6:11:03 GMT -6
Hello, I joined a few weeks ago, and meant to make an introductory post, but got busy. I bought a 1985 454 last week as my first bike and I have really enjoyed it. It needed some help [fan was wired super sketchy to the fuse box, needed a key made for the ignition, front brake was seized], but I fixed it up and started DDing it to work. I drove 115 miles on 2 gallons this weekend, I was really impressed. I was expecting more like 40-45 MPG. Here's the bike:  Sync'd my carbs this weekend with a friend:  Drove the car home from work yesterday to have a key made for the ignition. Got on the bike after that happened, and it started right up. Drove to the gas station, turned the bike off, got some air, then started it again to go to the parts store. When I came out to the bike, it wouldn't start. Checked all the stupid stuff [OFF/RUN switch, Nuetral light was on, clutch safety switch, kickstand switch, etc], and nothing would work. Left it and came back with my friend who is a wiring professional, and it started right up. Very frustrating. Drove it home, and parked it in the garage, and it wouldn't start up again. Took the seat off, traced all the wires, checked the switches and fuses. Even jumped the starter wire on the handlebars to 12+ which made it turn over but the bike wouldn't run. I'm on the lookout for a Factory Service Manual so I can read it, but do you guys have any ideas? Thanks for your help, I look forward to hanging out here. |
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Post by eaglerider on Jun 12, 2012 7:15:29 GMT -6
Welcome to our family. We have an on-line manual that is available to read and refer to....download & install our toolbar, its there, and makes navigating thru our "features" easier. Ebay is a good source for your own manual, I reccomend you find the "official" manual, rather than the Haynes or Clymer version.
Sounds like you have a bad connection, or bad ground somewhere, assuming your battery is in good condition.
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Post by flatblack on Jun 12, 2012 8:26:21 GMT -6
Found a full manual complete with wiring diagrams.
The battery is fine, and we jumped the starter straight off of the bike's battery 12+ but it wouldn't fire the ignition coil I guess.
I'm thinking it's a nuetral safety cut-off switch or something like that which is causing the problem. I took off the clutch handle and kickstand switches so they are always in the "open" position to rule them out.
The Nuetral light [green] works and is lit.
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Jun 12, 2012 14:00:46 GMT -6
Make sure your battery connections are good and tight, check your coil wires and boots. You can check your coils using an ohm meter the out put should be somewhere between 2 and 3.
Sometimes the coil wires and boots become loose at the coil or at the wire/boot connection, a lot of times you can twist them back into contact. When they are loose and the battery has had time to rest; the amperage will recover, giving it enough juice to jump the extra gap. When it's running it won't show up because the charging system has enough power to jump the bad connection.
If it consistently starts off of the jumper cables; you have a bad battery. Make sure you are running the correct plugs and gaps. Plugs can be bad right out of the box sometimes too.
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jp
Junior Member
Posts: 188
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Post by jp on Jun 12, 2012 14:50:55 GMT -6
Since you had key made, have you checked the ignition switch really well? Fairly common issue.
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Post by eaglerider on Jun 12, 2012 15:01:30 GMT -6
 By the way...ment to also say that the bike really does look nice.
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Post by flatblack on Jun 13, 2012 8:40:03 GMT -6
Thanks for the replies, everyone - JP was right, the ignition switch was bad.
I got the yellow wire [the ignition coil 12+ was dead after the switch] switched 12+, and the bike started up just fine. Rode it in to work today with no problems.
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Jun 13, 2012 13:22:02 GMT -6
Nice, congrats.
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Post by flatblack on Jun 17, 2012 22:13:11 GMT -6
Little update on my 454 [Mods, please move this if you'd like, I'll use this as my build thread] Exciting weekend for the 'Saki. Found a guy on CL who is parting out a EX500 [Ninja engine] swapped 454. He had bought brand new Dunlops for the bike, but never got it running. Got a pretty good deal on them, since they were brand new and already mounted and balanced on some 454 wheels. He also had some Brand-New-In-Box throttle cables, so I bought those too. The tires still need to be scrubbed in, but they feel much better, and make the bike look better too. Tonight I got the throttle cables on. The throttle tip-in used to catch pretty badly, which SUCKED for mid-corner throttle adjustments, and would jerk the bike off-line. The new cables are much smoother, and that initial throw is much more precise. While I had the tank off for the cables, I went ahead and flat-blacked the top of the tank and the front fender. Took off the top of the back seat as well.
Can't wait to get these tires scrubbed in so I can really get a feel for how the bike handles. Here are some before/after shots of the fender and tank, as well as pics of the new tires.
Hmm - I seem to have not got a good shot of the tank, but the clear coat had peeled off of the upper right part of the tank [the part that sits in the sun].
You can kind of see it in this picture:
Here is the tank after paint
Nasty chrome fender and rear upper seat installed:
FlatBlack'd front fender and no rear upper:
New rear tire
New front tire
I'd like to paint the bullets [gauge housings] at some point too if they'll come off easily enough. |
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Post by wanchesenative on Jun 18, 2012 21:19:47 GMT -6
Nice looking bike. The gauge covers are easy to get off. I have taken mine off several times in trying to find gauges that work properly. I don't remember the exact process, but I know don't have any negative "blankety blank" moments like I have when the bike gets the better of me. Just follow the steps in the manual for gauge removal. I do remember that you have to take the gauges off to slide the bullet down the connector arm. but it was fairly routine. On another note, what are your plans for the seat back that you took off. I have been looking for one in decent condition.
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Post by flatblack on Jul 10, 2012 8:20:17 GMT -6
Nice looking bike. The gauge covers are easy to get off. It wasn't so bad! Got my drag bars on and painted all the chrome black. Really like the look, now to ditch that goofy seat and sissy bar...  Also, just odered a fork seal kit, hopefully will get to that this weekend. |
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Post by stormoffires on Jul 18, 2012 7:56:18 GMT -6
where did you get that bar from? Im looking at changing mine out
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Post by flatblack on Jul 23, 2012 12:49:39 GMT -6
where did you get that bar from? Im looking at changing mine out ebay. $25 shipped. It's just a 7/8" "drag bar" here's the ad for the one I got www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Drag-Style-Bar-Handlebar-7-8-Honda-CB450-CB750-CB-/360467849567?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53ed8ee15f&vxp=mtrJust be careful - the bolts on the controls hit the tank if you jerk the wheel into it. My tank was pretty beat up anyways so I'm not worried about it, but it's something to think about. Also, I had to run my throttle and left hand grip with some hanging off the bars to accommodate the brake master cyl. Also, the stock bars have a small hole for the nipple on the controls so it sits in a specific place. I had to break the nipples off my controls, but it's fine because the clamping force of the bolts holds them in place just fine. You can't really see it, but the master is hitting the forks. I have my forks lowered a few inches though. If you are at stock height, it should be fine.  |
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Post by snellgelt on Aug 27, 2012 21:46:59 GMT -6
BTW - you never have to break the nipples or tabs off the inside of the controls - Different handlebars are sold "to fit" certain brands as they would have holes drilled into the handlebars where the control tabs would fit. The solution is to drill the same size holes into the new handlebars the same distance and location as the old handlebars are. Even though the control bolts hold things snug, it's nice to have the safety as it was designed. I installed a set of Motoguzzi Police handlebars on my bike and everything fit like a dream!
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Post by snellgelt on Aug 27, 2012 21:48:17 GMT -6
PS
Your Saki turned out real nice! I would think you get lots of compliments!
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Post by flatblack on Aug 31, 2012 9:36:33 GMT -6
BTW - you never have to break the nipples or tabs off the inside of the controls Good to know, will remember for next time. PS Your Saki turned out real nice! I would think you get lots of compliments! Thanks! My friend has a 883 Piglet, and wanted to see if his stock pipes fit on my bike. They did! Sound pretty good, nice meaty sound. Still need to locate some slip pipes so it's not leaking out of the joint, but I'm digging the sound for now. Not too loud. Bolt up to the stock pipe brackets, too. Found a brand new 2005 Yamaha V-Star 1100 seat on CL yesterday for $40. Good news: fits the cradle well, looks awesome, feels nice. Bad news: loosing the rear bar makes the rear seat non-functional. I still have the old seat and bar intact for whenever girlie wants to go with me on the bike, but I'd like to fab up a support bar for the new rear. Let me know what you think. IT's a bit fat in the back but I like it alot. Here's the bike when I got it:    |
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Post by eaglerider on Aug 31, 2012 10:09:51 GMT -6
Looks like u might have considerable exhaust leakage where the muffler fits on the pipes. I know the mufflers are 1 3/4 " inlet...our pipes are much smaller. I also use the Porky Pig mufflers, but I cut the pipes just in front of the crossover & added length with 1 3/4 " exhaust pipe tubing (it drives over the header pipes with a good, tight fit). The pipe can then have a slight upward bend (similar to the stock pipes), and then any 1 3/4" inlet mufflers wil just clamp on.
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By the way...ment to also say that the bike really does look nice.
