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Post by malochai on Mar 19, 2011 20:00:54 GMT -6
in terms of the idle my cables are only as tight as needed to give the snap back...I think...when I got the bike it had a sort of cruise control, the throttle would stick for a second or two before creeping back to idle...which still required choke...I've made a lot of improvements with limited experience (my first bike) which I'm very happy about but I may indeed have a jet issue...my pilot screw is all the way in for instance but even that doesn't seem to effect the high throttle.....it floats around 2K cold but when heated up is at the 3k mark. As far as the soda can method I would've went that route but didn't get a good fit and found I need 3/4 coverage...I tested with duct tape to see how much interference was needed and that lead me to the spline idea as it seems the grooves were about 3/4 surface area. In my situation its more of a failure in terms of my fabrication ability than the merit of the idea....obviously this leaves room for bits to come loose at high speeds...that aspect will have to be tested as I've only hit about 50 mph since the mod...which BTW is the fastest I've gone on an MC at this point I've left the throttle cable loose and my idle adjustment screw isn't even touching the lever and it still wants to idle high...seems even if I rejet I'd still be burning the same extra fuel....is that a correct assumption?....Sorry for hijacking ***Just noticed something*** My throttle DOES increase when I turn my bars all the way to the left....so maybe it IS that simple...maybe about 500 RPM increase when settled all the way to left....will have to play with that more...right now was happy to have full range throttle So question....If throttle cables are loose enough to not snap back properly can they still be routed wrong enough as to pull the throttle lever up to the 3k mark...I know there is a Accel AND Decel cable but i don't seem to get much response from my Decel cable even after doing a poor man's vatting (lemon juice boil and then douse in WD-40) and readjusting where all the cables locked in.
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Post by Blaine on Mar 19, 2011 20:28:19 GMT -6
.my pilot screw is all the way in for instance but even that doesn't seem to effect the high throttle..... ***Just noticed something*** My throttle DOES increase when I turn my bars all the way to the left....so maybe it IS that simple...maybe about 500 RPM increase when settled all the way to left....will have to play with that more...right now was happy to have full range throttle So question....If throttle cables are loose enough to not snap back properly can they still be routed wrong enough as to pull the throttle lever up to the 3k mark...I know there is a Accel AND Decel cable but i don't seem to get much response from my Decel cable even after doing a poor man's vatting (lemon juice boil and then douse in WD-40) and readjusting where all the cables locked in. Your pilot screws should be out at least 2 turns.Did you check to make sure you don't have a vacuum leak.That could also cause high idle.You have a cable routed wrong or binding,if the idle is reving when you move the bars.If nothing is binding, the carbs should come back against the idle screw,as they got a pretty strong return spring on them.
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Post by malochai on Mar 19, 2011 20:44:07 GMT -6
In truth there's still alot I haven't checked....or even know (knew) to check at this point...I know the idle adjustment is backed of to where it doesn't even come into play with the carb removed from the bike and cables.... As far as the vacuum leak no I don't know thats not the issue....didn't know to look there yet even When I got this bike it didn't run well at all and admittedly I don't know all that much...between the service manual and internet friends I've got it at least running.... From what I know there are 3 vacuum lines...maybe four technically... 1 each topside of each carb...one runs to the fuel tank and the other....uhmmm.maybe the same don't remember....and then the vacuum bar connecting the two carbs and extended by a bit of hose I replaced when I cleaned the carbs out....how to check them properly? There is definitely an increase in RPM when bars are fully left but like I say I've left everything loose and it still seems to do the same. I know the pilot screw *should* be out some but my adjustments there don't seem to make a huge difference so I'm thinking my pilot jet maybe off size.....so is public opinion leaning towards jet issue or just cable issue...
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Post by Blaine on Mar 19, 2011 21:24:17 GMT -6
If you look under the thread "Pod filter questions" there are lots of photos & info on the carbs and hoses.The hose comming off the side of the tank is only a vent hose and does not hook to anything.You cannot set your pilot screws until you get the bike to idle.Check through the thread above and see if it makes sense to you.Post any further questions.
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Post by eaglerider on Mar 20, 2011 5:07:20 GMT -6
Hate to be blunt, but u have several adjustments that are involved here. The cables are binding somewhere (rounting issue), both cables are not adjusted properly, and of course, the idle screw is not adjusted right, if it is backed off entirely. the manual gives instructions on how to adjust all this, and must be done in order. Then, u have 2 vacumn ports on top of the carbs. The left one (kickstand side) goes to the petcock, the right one goes to the emissions valve under the tank, and on top of the valve cover. If u have removed that valve, that vacumn hose can be either plugged, or "T"ed into the other vacumn hose. The hose u said was between the carbs(upper one) is not a vacumn hose, it is a vent for the carbs. The lower "T" between the carbs, of course is the fuel inlet.
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 30, 2013 8:11:19 GMT -6
Ok I found this thread about the carb rejetting. It brings a lot of it into focus on doing this. When I search for the jets, what do I search for? I checked the first link posted here and doesn't show any jet's. The second link shows a jet but it doesn't say 130 or 135 just 35, why? I need an example of what to type in on jc whitney or dennis kirk to find the right jet. And the talk of shimming and adjusting mixture screws. My head is starting to spin.
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Post by Blaine on Mar 30, 2013 13:15:43 GMT -6
You need to get your pods first & see how she runs.You may only need to shim your needles.I know it sounds overwhelming,but it's really not.If you can adjust you valves you can tune your carbs.Get your pods on & we can go step by step from there.
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 30, 2013 13:30:40 GMT -6
Ok, first step is to get time to figure out where my drip. Is at. Then if I need to pull the carbs I'm gonna do pods now. If I don't have to pull the carbs to fix the drip I'll do the pods next year.
Sent from my DROID4 using proboards
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Post by zekkfett on Mar 30, 2013 19:22:45 GMT -6
Really wish I left the stock air box on right about now.. the only reason I went to these air filters was because I didn't want the pain of removing the stock air box everytime I needed to mess with the carbs. If your bike is running properly, and you keep it maintained, keep good gas with a good stabilizer in it, run an inline filter, and store it properly in the winter, there is absolutely no reason you should ever need to mess with the carbs, or take them out. Maybe once or twice a season, sync them, but you don't even need to take anything off to do that. Most of the time when you first get a bike, a good carb cleaning just has to be done, that way you can have peace of mind that it/they are clean. But once you get them clean, and do your best to keep them clean, there is no reason that you should ever have to take the carbs back off. (Unless of course you break a cable) Pods and "High-Flow" filters do more harm than good. 95% of people will have problems getting them adjusted correctly, if in fact they ever do. If the thought of having to take the carbs out gets you frustrated, just use that as motivation to KEEP them clean, then you will never have a reason to HAVE to take them out. ;D Just a couple videos: some food for thought.....
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 30, 2013 22:25:18 GMT -6
The only reason I might pull the carbs is to fix the drip I found. I have a drip on the inside of the left carb. Once I figure out where it is coming from I need to fix it. There in lies why I might have to pull the carbs. If I do have to that's why I was thinking of changing to pod filters. To remove the hassle of removing the carbs.
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Post by zekkfett on Mar 31, 2013 0:39:18 GMT -6
The only reason I might pull the carbs is to fix the drip I found. I have a drip on the inside of the left carb. Once I figure out where it is coming from I need to fix it. There in lies why I might have to pull the carbs. If I do have to that's why I was thinking of changing to pod filters. To remove the hassle of removing the carbs. On the other side of the coin, if you still had the factory airbox, you would still need to pull them off to fix the leak, and you would only need to pull them off once to rebuild & clean them (which would fix the leak). Then once you put them back on, as long as you kept your fuel system nice and clean & store it correctly, you would never have to pull them off ever again; which would eliminate the "need" for pods, because you'll have no need to take the carbs off. That was my original point. If you never pulled the carbs from when you got the bike used, then you still needed to. The first 3 things I do to a new-to-me bike: carb & tank clean, tires, and an oil change. These are the 3 things I count on with EVERY bike purchase, and that is also on my mind when considering what to offer a seller for the bike. And for me, these three things are NEVER overlooked. Half the bikes I buy don't run, simply because of dirty carbs. Once the tank and carbs are cleaned, good fuel added with Seafoam, and an inline filter added, simply inform the buyer (or yourself) to add 1oz of Seafoam every other tank, (also when storing) and to drain the carbs when storing, and they should never ever have problems with the carbs again. IMO, (and remember, this is just my opinion; and no offense to anyone) the only bikes pods should be on, are bikes where you just absolutely cannot find a factory airbox, or someone that doesn't have access to factory/OEM parts. Pods just make the bike less efficient, and less reliable. They LOOK better, granted; but IMO, they just aren't worth the extra cost (filters, jets, fuel, headaches, frustration, TIME ;D) I haven't bought a bike with Pods in a VERY long time, mainly because I don't wanna have to go back through, and undo what someone else has already messed up, or "ballparked". A bike that has been "jetted" may run....ok.... But it may be just a bit too lean or rich, which will ultimately affect the longevity of the engine.
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 31, 2013 19:40:05 GMT -6
Back on the issue of my drip from the left carb. Someone had mentioned it could be a float stuck. If it was a float stuck would the running change at all like rev fast or bog down? And if its a float, where would the gas be coming out of?
Sent from my DROID4 using proboards
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Post by zekkfett on Mar 31, 2013 19:59:34 GMT -6
Back on the issue of my drip from the left carb. Someone had mentioned it could be a float stuck. If it was a float stuck would the running change at all like rev fast or bog down? And if its a float, where would the gas be coming out of? Sent from my DROID4 using proboards A float stuck could affect how the bike runs. The leaking cylinder might run a tad rich. There should be a small "jet" (not really a jet, but looks kinda like one), or port, in the top of the carb bowl that will leak fuel when the bowl gets too full.
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Post by eaglerider on Mar 31, 2013 22:37:28 GMT -6
No jet or port on our carbs.....that is what the top "T" between the carbs is for...vent/overflow.
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Post by nitrosportman on Mar 31, 2013 23:05:08 GMT -6
has no one tried the old trick of cutting 3 loops off the diaphragm spring and running your pods open?
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Post by Blaine on Mar 31, 2013 23:08:04 GMT -6
has no one tried the old trick of cutting 3 loops off the diaphragm spring and running your pods open? That's the way I run mine.Gives you great throttle response too. ;D
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Post by nitrosportman on Mar 31, 2013 23:30:51 GMT -6
so why all this talk of huge mains your not getting more air the slide is just getting pushed down and you have to compensate
ahhh the lost art cvk tuning
heck we used to even remove the springs entirely haven't had one stick yet
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Post by eaglerider on Apr 1, 2013 6:07:08 GMT -6
On our parent webpage, in the left sidebar, there is a pretty complete "how-to" on CV carb tuning...plus some other helpfull information. I would bet that a good number of our "newer" members have never even visited there, from the sound of some of the posts.
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 1, 2013 9:58:08 GMT -6
No one has an extra idle screw lying around they are willing to part with? I broke the plastic around mine. I can adjust it with a small wrench but would like to replace it. Asked at the dealer and they want $11 something just for the plastic piece. I can buy the screw, spring and plastic piece used on ebay for $9. Thought I would check here first to see if anyone had one. Thanks guys....
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 1, 2013 10:19:18 GMT -6
Would the knob of another carb idle screw work on our bike?
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Post by Blaine on Apr 1, 2013 14:19:50 GMT -6
Would the knob of another carb idle screw work on our bike? Vulcan & Ninja have the same carbs.
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 1, 2013 18:06:16 GMT -6
Hey eagles or Blaine got another question. Is there any way to free up a sticky float? The bike has been sitting all winter and only started bout once a month. I'm gonna run some seafoam thru it and see if that cleans it up a bit. Just curious if maybe draining the bowl and then tapping on the carb bowl might free it up?
Sent from my DROID4 using proboards
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Post by Blaine on Apr 1, 2013 18:19:56 GMT -6
Hey eagles or Blaine got another question. Is there any way to free up a sticky float? The bike has been sitting all winter and only started bout once a month. I'm gonna run some seafoam thru it and see if that cleans it up a bit. Just curious if maybe draining the bowl and then tapping on the carb bowl might free it up? Sent from my DROID4 using proboards That may help.But if the problem persists I would put a rebuild kit in the carbs.Kits run about $20.00 each & consist of new float needle,mixture screws,& bowl o-rings.
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 1, 2013 19:45:34 GMT -6
I am going to order 2 kits. Just was wondering if that might free it up temporarily. When I rebuild, am I gonna have to adjust like the mixture screws? Is that something I get to from the outside of the carbs? If not does that mean I have to pull. The carbs to keep re-adjusting the mixture? Just trying to get all the facts. I know its gonna be a pita to get the carbs off. Once I put them back in I don't want to have to pull them again. I think my mixture right now is good. Should I count my turns when I remove and screw them back in the same on assembly? Or do all of the screw parts I take out just get screwed back in snug?
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Post by Blaine on Apr 1, 2013 19:58:27 GMT -6
Mixture is set with the bike warmed up idling.2 1/2 turns out is a good starting point.
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Post by zekkfett on Apr 1, 2013 21:05:06 GMT -6
I'm gonna run some seafoam thru it and see if that cleans it up a bit. Just curious if maybe draining the bowl and then tapping on the carb bowl might free it up? Sent from my DROID4 using proboards If you have a syringe, backfill the bowl with some pure SeaFoam, then let it sit for a day or two. Will work wonders. ;D
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Post by Blaine on Apr 1, 2013 21:24:17 GMT -6
I'm gonna run some seafoam thru it and see if that cleans it up a bit. Just curious if maybe draining the bowl and then tapping on the carb bowl might free it up? Sent from my DROID4 using proboards If you have a syringe, backfill the bowl with some pure SeaFoam, then let it sit for a day or two. Will work wonders. ;D Great idea,Zeekfett!!
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 1, 2013 22:10:04 GMT -6
Blaine, where are the mixture screws at? If I adjust them with the bike warm and idling I assume they are on the outside of the carbs? Zekk I do have a syringe, how do you mean to backfill with seafoam? Ya have to be a little more descriptive. I'm having a brain lapse here. lol
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 1, 2013 22:16:41 GMT -6
ok thinking about that for a minute zekk. Do you mean put a piece of tube on the vent T then put the syringe in the fuel line and pull seafoam into the vent T until it comes up the fuel line? If that's what you mean, once it comes in the fuel line it will be in both carbs correct?
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Post by zekkfett on Apr 1, 2013 22:27:00 GMT -6
ok thinking about that for a minute zekk. Do you mean put a piece of tube on the vent T then put the syringe in the fuel line and pull seafoam into the vent T until it comes up the fuel line? If that's what you mean, once it comes in the fuel line it will be in both carbs correct? Open your drain screws and drain the bowls. Hook a piece of hose to the syringe, then to the nipple on the bottom of the carb(s). Squeeze in some SeaFoam from the bottom until it starts to come out the vent tube on top. Close your drain screw. Repeat for the other carb. Give it a day or two, then DRAIN it, don't use that nasty SeaFoam to start the bike with. ;D Make sense? I suppose filling it from the top would accomplish the same thing. ;D I just always do it from the bottom, cuz it pushes the start of the nasty stuff out the vent hole right from the beginning.
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