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Post by Blaine on Mar 8, 2013 12:54:50 GMT -6
Hey blaine, after I got the pipes cut off I see what your saying about the header being double walled. I am going to have the muffler shop put a couple tack welds on the header so it doesn't rattle. Don't know if it will but since I am welding the extension onto it, better do it before I weld them on. Then there will be no chance of the rattle. Yep.A good idea.Mine never rattled,but if they ever start,my pipes are only clamped,so I can get to them easily
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 11, 2013 19:46:52 GMT -6
Would I have any problems hand tightening the header pipes in so I can fire the bike after my valve adjustment? I'm not going anywhere with the bike just don't know if it would cause any issue. Want to start it after doing the adjustment to hear it and see how well it starts. Don't really want to tighten the headers on just to have to loosen them again to take them back off.
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Post by Blaine on Mar 11, 2013 20:10:55 GMT -6
No won't cause any problems as long as they are tight enough so they aren't leaking.The gaskets are copper,so they don't have to be very tight to not leak.
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 30, 2013 14:14:01 GMT -6
Hey blaine question for you. I'm gonna have my exhaust pipes bend and welded in a week or so. Question is this: how did you get the pipe to not touch the side stand when its up? I was just dry fitting the piece of pipe I got. The headers are slightly loose so I can move them a little to change the position of the pipe. No matter how I move them the pipe is still hit by the side stand. I am gonna have the muffler shop bend the pipe in slightly to miss the stand then have it bent out and up slightly to clear the belt and rear tire. Did you do any of that or did you just bolt on the pipe and mufflers?
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Post by Blaine on Mar 30, 2013 14:31:29 GMT -6
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 30, 2013 14:46:04 GMT -6
What about the center stand? Any problem with it hitting your pipes? What about what I had mentioned I want the muffler shop to do? Putting the bends in the pipe would work and it will give me clearance. I am gonna wrap the exhaust but still don't want the stand hitting as it will rub the wrap off eventually.
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Post by Blaine on Mar 30, 2013 17:39:18 GMT -6
Yep your idea of the bends will work well.My center stand is long gone.First thing I eliminated when I bought the bike. ;D My bike is low enough that the stand wouldn't work anyway.It may cause a problem as it uses the original muffler as a bump stop.
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 30, 2013 18:26:01 GMT -6
Well thinking about that. It shouldn't be an issue. If it uses it as a bump stop that shouldn't be bad. It will only be hitting in one spot. Unlike the side stand that will be rubbing back and forth all the time when I use it. That is why I want to have a slight out and up bend put in the pipe. The outward is to clear the belt and rear wheel. The upward is to help clear the center stand. I just might remove that though. Thinking about it I have a motorcycle jack I use. The stand really isn't necessary. Taking the bike in Wednesday to go over the welding and bending I want and see what its gonna cost and when he can do it. Can't wait to get the pipes on so I can hear it. It is ungodly loud with the headers cut! I have my wrap and I got a can of high temp black silicone spray for the wrap. It is gonna look really nice when its done. The next big thing will be the tank. Also gonna find an old tattered seat with a good plastic pan. Want to try the mod on the seat to make it wider.
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Post by eaglerider on Mar 30, 2013 19:48:07 GMT -6
Without the bump stop(as on the stock mufflers), and with the hardly mufflers, the center stand will go too far up and rub the belt. U do not want this, as the drive belt is not cheap, and if it breaks out on the road, in the middle of nowhere.......well, u can figure out the rest.
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 30, 2013 22:18:15 GMT -6
Well guess that makes my decision then. I'll be removing the center stand before I am finished with the mods!
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Post by eaglerider on Mar 31, 2013 4:20:20 GMT -6
U can always fabricate a bump stop....when I installed Jardines, they had a stop that was bolted on to "replace" the stock setup.
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 5, 2013 17:40:11 GMT -6
I got the bike back today from the muffler shop. It looks and sounds great with the H-D mufflers on it. The place I took it to cut 2 custom brackets on a laser jet to mount the mufflers. He loosened the bottom shock/spring nut, removed the washer and put the bracket in its place. I removed the exhaust now so I can wrap it. I need to get all my work done by my next day off on Wed. It is suppose to be 70! I can't wait to take it out for its first ride of the season. As I stated in other posts, I will be posting more pics in my post in the photo album when done.
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Post by BenInPA on Jun 11, 2013 17:58:19 GMT -6
Can you guys tell me if the exhaust header can be welded a couple inches from the engine? I found my right exhaust header is cracked about 3 inches out from the engine. Not sure if I can weld that or if its gonna be too thin. It sucks because I only had the exhaust done 2 months ago and now this. I'm gonna look for a new header and have it replaced. Thing that sucks is now I am going to need a new pipe bent and welded to the new header when I find it. I'm hoping I can weld it for now until the end of the riding season this year. Sent from my Droid 4 using Proboards Mobile App. ;D
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Post by Blaine on Jun 11, 2013 18:33:25 GMT -6
Can you guys tell me if the exhaust header can be welded a couple inches from the engine? I found my right exhaust header is cracked about 3 inches out from the engine. Not sure if I can weld that or if its gonna be too thin. It sucks because I only had the exhaust done 2 months ago and now this. I'm gonna look for a new header and have it replaced. Thing that sucks is now I am going to need a new pipe bent and welded to the new header when I find it. I'm hoping I can weld it for now until the end of the riding season this year. Sent from my Droid 4 using Proboards Mobile App. ;D Yep<I don't see any reason why not.Just remember that the header is double walled & you also have a inner pipe.
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Post by BenInPA on Jun 11, 2013 20:12:10 GMT -6
Yeah I know there is an inner pipe. Had to make sure that was tacked when he welded the pipe onto the header. I just want to weld the header so it isn't leaking. When I track down another right header pipe I'll have it replaced. Ill try and get a pick up in the photos of the new heel/toe shifter. Sent from my Droid 4 using Proboards Mobile App. ;D
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Post by Blaine on Jun 11, 2013 21:48:18 GMT -6
Yeah I know there is an inner pipe. Had to make sure that was tacked when he welded the pipe onto the header. I just want to weld the header so it isn't leaking. When I track down another right header pipe I'll have it replaced. Ill try and get a pick up in the photos of the new heel/toe shifter. Sent from my Droid 4 using Proboards Mobile App. ;D You can use the header from the Vulcan,it may be a little easier to find.Can't wait to see your new shifter.
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Post by johnathanb on Feb 2, 2016 21:28:38 GMT -6
Question about the cross pipe delete with the 1.75 pipe. When you cut the cross pipe off, you say to add a 1.75" pipe on to the header and then the 1.75" Porky Pig exhaust will fit. What length pipe do you add to the header? I'm guessin 1.75" Id will fit on the header and the 1.71id from the muffler will fit on the added 1.75 pipe?
So basically.
Header - 1.75idx 2"length pipe - 1.75id Porky Pig exhaust. ?
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Post by Blaine on Feb 3, 2016 14:58:42 GMT -6
Question about the cross pipe delete with the 1.75 pipe. When you cut the cross pipe off, you say to add a 1.75" pipe on to the header and then the 1.75" Porky Pig exhaust will fit. What length pipe do you add to the header? I'm guessin 1.75" Id will fit on the header and the 1.71id from the muffler will fit on the added 1.75 pipe? So basically. Header - 1.75idx 2"length pipe - 1.75id Porky Pig exhaust. ? Yep.....or longer depending were you want your mufflers to sit.
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Post by johnathanb on Feb 5, 2016 14:36:24 GMT -6
Thanks buddy. That's this weekend. Got a set of Porky Pig pipes for 20 bucks. Off a 09 or so wide glide. Hope they sound nice
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Post by johnathanb on Feb 5, 2016 14:36:58 GMT -6
Dyna wide glide
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Post by johnathanb on Feb 5, 2016 14:37:14 GMT -6
Idk why it said porky pig pipes lol
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Post by Blaine on Feb 5, 2016 22:38:10 GMT -6
Idk why it said porky pig pipes lol The forum automatically changes it.
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Post by johnathanb on Feb 7, 2016 10:30:18 GMT -6
Haha. Awesome
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gonzo
Junior Member
For the 1st time ever I don't like the snow
Posts: 215
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Post by gonzo on Feb 12, 2016 22:12:56 GMT -6
You'll gain top end power by removing the cross over pipe, and it'll be a bit louder. But you lose power in the low to mid throttle range. This year I'm planning to make a set of pipes and removing those horrible bends at the start of the pipe. After doing a load of reading as to why our exhausts have that kink in the exhaust about 5" from the exhaust valve it's to help with slight restriction to help with low end performance. But this may bring me to a similar point of removing the cross pipe? But you'll never never know if you never never go!
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