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oil change
May 23, 2013 15:55:33 GMT -6
via mobile
Post by sgtarthurusmc on May 23, 2013 15:55:33 GMT -6
I am going change oil in my bike this weekend and the oil filter how much oil does it take fill it back up 1 quart 2 quarts? N what kind does everyone recommend? Can u use regular motor oil? It is 86 Kawasaki 454 ltd
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Post by Blaine on May 23, 2013 20:31:35 GMT -6
I am going change oil in my bike this weekend and the oil filter how much oil does it take fill it back up 1 quart 2 quarts? N what kind does everyone recommend? Can u use regular motor oil? It is 86 Kawasaki 454 ltd Engine holds 3.4 liters (3.5 US quarts) with filter change.I always use Shell Rotella T 15-40 motor oil.It reasonable priced & safe for wet clutches.You can also get it in a T-6 synthetic if you like.
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Post by eaglerider on May 23, 2013 21:14:04 GMT -6
Do not use any oil that has the extra "slicky type" additives. This engine uses a "wet clutch" and those additives are not good at all for the clutch. I personally reccomend a good motorcycle oil, but others have had good service from the Rotella mentioned above. Depending on where you live, dictates the viscosity...The warmer the climate, the "heavier" the oil....being in S Texas, I use 20W50 year round, but "cooler" climates, you can use 10W40.
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Post by sgtarthurusmc1987 on May 24, 2013 4:34:05 GMT -6
I live in Ohio on the Ohio and West Virginia border
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Post by BenInPA on May 24, 2013 14:33:15 GMT -6
I use Yamaha motorcycle oil 10W40. It is only I think $11 and change for a gallon at the dealer. A lot cheaper than the Kawasaki oil that is over $18 a gallon! I am in NE PA by the way. I also use Seafoam in my oil as I also use it in my fuel. Also as mentioned before don't use an oil with all the additives in it. Also don't use normal motor oil as it is not formulated for use in a bike. The motorcycle oil is specifically designed for use in motorcycles. With a wet clutch your engine is sharing the oil with the transmission and the oil goes thru a lot more abuse/use than in a vehicle. Sent using Pro boards Mobile App
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Post by zekkfett on May 25, 2013 0:37:29 GMT -6
Also don't use normal motor oil as it is not formulated for use in a bike. The motorcycle oil is specifically designed for use in motorcycles. With a wet clutch your engine is sharing the oil with the transmission and the oil goes thru a lot more abuse/use than in a vehicle. Sent using Pro boards Mobile App Hate to have to disagree with you on this one... I've ran normal motor oil in every single one of my bikes & ATV's. Not a single oiling or clutch issue. About the only EXTRA thing in motorcycle oils, is a friction additive designed for use with the clutch. It's NOT needed. If your clutch is adjusted properly, there is no need for a friction additive. IMO, buying a "special" motorcycle oil is just throwing your money down the drain. If you can get it for less than normal oil, by all means, have at it. But a regular 10W-40 or 20W-50 will work just fine, as long as it isn't energy conserving.
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Post by Blaine on May 25, 2013 5:09:32 GMT -6
Also don't use normal motor oil as it is not formulated for use in a bike. The motorcycle oil is specifically designed for use in motorcycles. With a wet clutch your engine is sharing the oil with the transmission and the oil goes thru a lot more abuse/use than in a vehicle. Sent using Pro boards Mobile App Hate to have to disagree with you on this one... I've ran normal motor oil in every single one of my bikes & ATV's. Not a single oiling or clutch issue. About the only EXTRA thing in motorcycle oils, is a friction additive designed for use with the clutch. It's NOT needed. If your clutch is adjusted properly, there is no need for a friction additive. IMO, buying a "special" motorcycle oil is just throwing your money down the drain. If you can get it for less than normal oil, by all means, have at it. But a regular 10W-40 or 20W-50 will work just fine, as long as it isn't energy conserving. Exactly.That's why I use Rotella T,it has no friction modifiers (Energy conserving). It is (JASO) safe for wet clutches.
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Post by BenInPA on May 25, 2013 10:50:19 GMT -6
Ok, sorry to mis-inform anyone. In one of the threads on here someone told me that you shouldn't use normal oil in our bike. they said that the motorcycle oil had additives for the bike. Thanks for the correction guys!
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Post by zekkfett on May 25, 2013 13:20:15 GMT -6
Ok, sorry to mis-inform anyone. In one of the threads on here someone told me that you shouldn't use normal oil in our bike. they said that the motorcycle oil had additives for the bike. Thanks for the correction guys! No biggie! Sometimes some mis-information goes around. If you were told that by someone with very little motorcycle, or even wrench experience; they probably didn't know any better; or they were told that by someone else that didn't know any better either. Some bike shops will push "special" motorcycle oil on people that don't know any better; then owners think their bike HAS to have a special oil in it. It's all a profit war, led by misinformation. Even if your bike's manual says to use "X" motorcycle oil, disregard it. Manufacturers will put in whatever it takes, to sell more bikes: they will often tell you to do certain things that will actually make the life of the bike, and engine, shorter; so they can sell more new model bikes. Cars and bikes are NOT made to go 100,000+ miles anymore. Why would a car or bike manufacturer want you to spend $10,000 once every 30 years, when they can make you spend $30,000 over the same 30 years?? In my 20 years of turning wrenches, I've seen only a handfull of cars come in to my shop with over 200,000 miles on them, and NONE of them have been made in the last...... 15 years. I have not seen many bikes with over 100,000 miles on them, and the ones that I DO see that are that high, are mostly BMW's and Goldwings & the scattered Metric cruisers. Never an H-D. Most owners of those give up on them after replacing all 77 engine gaskets for the 5th or 6th time. One example I can give, is most newer cars specify a 5w-20 oil. They do this, because the oil is thinner, won't lubricate as well, the engine will not last as long, and the manufacturer gets to sell yet another car when the engine goes out in yours. They make cars and bikes to last JUST long enough to get past the MFR Warranty, then they just wanna sell you a new car. I myself use a 10W-40 in pretty much EVERYTHING, except my air compressor, and the bikes in the HEAT of the summer; and I've never owned a cage with less than 175,000 miles, and most of them see 300,000 by the time I sell them. Keep your carbs clean by using SeaFoam, check/change your plugs when they need them, keep your battery in top shape by using a battery tender, keep your tires at the correct pressure, keep your oil level where it should be, and change your oil RELIGIOUSLY (some only go 1,000 miles before an oil change, this is a lil ridiculous in MY book... Modern oil will last quite a bit of time, but in a bike, 3,000 miles should be your ABSOLUTE limit) and finally adjust your valves on time when they need it. All those things if done, will keep your bike as reliable, and as top performing as it should be. And it should last MANY more miles to come. EXCEPT with the HIGH revving crotch rocket engines: remember, a bike engine is just like any other internal combustion engine, you don't have to treat it any other way than as such. There's not much "special" attention that need to be paid to them except the normal valve adjustments, and make SURE your oil level is always up, and changed regularly.
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moremoore86
New Member
If the wife is happy.........
Posts: 12
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Post by moremoore86 on Aug 7, 2014 19:22:18 GMT -6
I am going change oil in my bike this weekend and the oil filter how much oil does it take fill it back up 1 quart 2 quarts? N what kind does everyone recommend? Can u use regular motor oil? It is 86 Kawasaki 454 ltd Engine holds 3.4 liters (3.5 US quarts) with filter change.I always use Shell Rotella T 15-40 motor oil.It reasonable priced & safe for wet clutches.You can also get it in a T-6 synthetic if you like. diesel?
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Post by Blaine on Aug 8, 2014 5:21:09 GMT -6
I am going change oil in my bike this weekend and the oil filter how much oil does it take fill it back up 1 quart 2 quarts? N what kind does everyone recommend? Can u use regular motor oil? It is 86 Kawasaki 454 ltd It holds 3.2 liters (about half way up on the site glass)do NOT use any oil that is "energy conserving" (car oil).A good oil is Rotella-T & it is wet clutch safe.
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hoosierrick
New Member
looking for a complete tool box. PM ME
Posts: 46
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Post by hoosierrick on Aug 9, 2014 16:10:59 GMT -6
I also use Rotella 15w40 in mine. If it wasn't liquid cooled, I would probably run synthetic.
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Post by pajyee on Mar 6, 2015 2:05:45 GMT -6
I know this is an old thread-- but I just read it through and wanted to make sure I'm getting what many of you are recommending. I got the Shell Rotella T 15W-40. Does it matter that the bottle says "Heavy Duty Diesel" Engine Oil? Also, it says "Triple Protection" and on the description on the back says "Rotella Triple Protection oil use the latest additive technology..." A couple of you on the thread said to make sure the oil doesn't have "additives" in it. Just wanted to make sure this is still consistent with what many of you are recommending.
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Post by Blaine on Mar 6, 2015 6:21:28 GMT -6
I know this is an old thread-- but I just read it through and wanted to make sure I'm getting what many of you are recommending. I got the Shell Rotella T 15W-40. Does it matter that the bottle says "Heavy Duty Diesel" Engine Oil? Also, it says "Triple Protection" and on the description on the back says "Rotella Triple Protection oil use the latest additive technology..." A couple of you on the thread said to make sure the oil doesn't have "additives" in it. Just wanted to make sure this is still consistent with what many of you are recommending. Yep This is what I used & still do today.
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Post by pajyee on Mar 6, 2015 11:16:09 GMT -6
Cool-- thanks, Blaine. I just didn't know if they came out with a different product or something-- thought I would confirm before I made the change. The guy at the store said that before I switch to this brand of oil from what I was using before that I should maybe add some Seafoam to my existing oil and run it for about 100 miles so that I have a clean slate. Is this something you've done and how much Seafoam would you suggest I put in there?
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Post by Blaine on Mar 6, 2015 16:44:34 GMT -6
Cool-- thanks, Blaine. I just didn't know if they came out with a different product or something-- thought I would confirm before I made the change. The guy at the store said that before I switch to this brand of oil from what I was using before that I should maybe add some Seafoam to my existing oil and run it for about 100 miles so that I have a clean slate. Is this something you've done and how much Seafoam would you suggest I put in there? I'm not a fan of SeaFoam in the crankcase (Or any additive) because of the wet clutch.I see no reason to do this if the engine is clean.But others have done it with no problems.
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Post by pajyee on Mar 7, 2015 1:33:20 GMT -6
Sorry-- I'm new at this. What does "if the engine is clean" mean? Is that a term that means that the engine is running properly?
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Post by Blaine on Mar 7, 2015 6:24:26 GMT -6
Sorry-- I'm new at this. What does "if the engine is clean" mean? Is that a term that means that the engine is running properly? Sorry about that. Yes Agood running engine that has had oil changer regularly & not sluged up or dirty inside.
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Post by jon on Sept 5, 2015 15:30:48 GMT -6
im currently looking at a 87' 454 with 22,000 miles on it. the bike seems to be in fair condition. any ideas on what its worth??
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Post by venzon on Oct 13, 2015 14:45:36 GMT -6
I know this is off topic but I did my first oil change with sheel rotella T. Now she starts up idles for a bit then dies... anyone know or can point me to the right direction what's wrong?
I did a search with now luck. Thanks in advance.
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Post by venzon on Oct 16, 2015 13:17:25 GMT -6
Had to adjust the idle. Battery on its way out too.
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Post by rodney on Aug 4, 2016 12:25:08 GMT -6
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Post by Blaine on Aug 4, 2016 13:22:20 GMT -6
Great.......This had disappeared awhile ago.
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Post by 3goutdoor on Aug 16, 2016 11:38:37 GMT -6
T 6. Blue bottle in everything I own. Have a landscaping business so I have off the top of my head 23 items with gas engines. If it don't run I'm out of business and not making any $$$$$$$ So believe me I've done hours and hours of oil research. Just my 2 cents. Mobile 1 synthetic with all small hydros, lawn mowers and such. Skid steer hydros get cheapest thing at tractor supply. So basically anything that needs oil is getting one of these 3 at my house, forks, jacks, etc. Sorry I did forget about trans fluid. Money I save from not buying specialty oils goes in my wife's pocket. Try it. You'll b a happy man.
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Post by alexskidmore on May 5, 2018 10:19:22 GMT -6
do you check levels on the kickstand or work stand?
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pya977
Junior Member
Posts: 300
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Post by pya977 on May 6, 2018 1:20:29 GMT -6
main stand,or with bike vertical if no main stand is fitted
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