|
Post by mik3 on May 29, 2015 23:39:01 GMT -6
sorry for the second post, what do the washers go on?
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on May 30, 2015 5:00:35 GMT -6
sorry for the second post, what do the washers go on? Under the needle to make the mid-range richer so you don't have a bog.I think you have some research & studying to do before you dig into your carbs or your gonna have a non-running bike.Also you need to adjust/check your valves before any tuning.
|
|
|
Post by mik3 on May 30, 2015 23:39:58 GMT -6
sorry for the second post, what do the washers go on? Under the needle to make the mid-range richer so you don't have a bog.I think you have some research & studying to do before you dig into your carbs or your gonna have a non-running bike.Also you need to adjust/check your valves before any tuning. Wasn't sure which needle bud. I've rebuilt the carbs, asking more which needle. 16009 or 16017? I've done 2 valve adjustments. Once before I put the bike back on the road after a 20 year sit, and again after 500 miles. Will do another one before my 3k road trip I'm not scared or intimidated, just didn't want to shim the wrong one. Also, are there any other size main jets I might want to have on hand other than the 130's? Going to place the order for them on monday, don't mind having the extras sitting around. As far as a filter for the engine breather, I actually found an RC nitro engine intake filter that fits perfectly, sits about a few inches high. After I get the pods all fitted and set, I'll take pictures and post. Should I be looking at replacing the jet pilot to the 35? It is a CA bike. So i believe it currently has a 32 in it. Final question, I get popping when off the throttle during deceleration. There is an exhaust leak where the muffler and exhaust pipe meets. Haven't had a chance to pop off the covers but will be doing that tomorrow when I do the shock seals. Could this be causing the noise I'm hearing?
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on May 31, 2015 6:02:29 GMT -6
Under the needle to make the mid-range richer so you don't have a bog.I think you have some research & studying to do before you dig into your carbs or your gonna have a non-running bike.Also you need to adjust/check your valves before any tuning. Wasn't sure which needle bud. I've rebuilt the carbs, asking more which needle. 16009 or 16017? I've done 2 valve adjustments. Once before I put the bike back on the road after a 20 year sit, and again after 500 miles. Will do another one before my 3k road trip I'm not scared or intimidated, just didn't want to shim the wrong one. Also, are there any other size main jets I might want to have on hand other than the 130's? Going to place the order for them on monday, don't mind having the extras sitting around. As far as a filter for the engine breather, I actually found an RC nitro engine intake filter that fits perfectly, sits about a few inches high. After I get the pods all fitted and set, I'll take pictures and post. Should I be looking at replacing the jet pilot to the 35? It is a CA bike. So i believe it currently has a 32 in it. Final question, I get popping when off the throttle during deceleration. There is an exhaust leak where the muffler and exhaust pipe meets. Haven't had a chance to pop off the covers but will be doing that tomorrow when I do the shock seals. Could this be causing the noise I'm hearing? Yes. A exhaust leak will cause popping.Yes I would try a #135.The shims go under the main needle.I didn't mean to sound like you didn't know what you were doing.I just see a lot of people on here tear into their carbs with no experience & end up with a bike that won't perform properly.
|
|
|
Post by mik3 on Jun 1, 2015 20:31:50 GMT -6
Gotcha! So the shims would go under the needle jet, part ref 16009: www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/Motorcycle/1986/EN450-A2+454+LTD/CARBURETOR+PARTS/parts.htmlAnd as far as the 135 jet, is there a part number that you know of off the top of your head? There's not really any aftermarket part places in my area, I order typically factory parts, but they max at 130. Edit: Found a 135 jet on a carb site And you didn't make it out that I didn't know what I was doing! Everyone here has always been more than helpful. I ask alot of Q's because I just want to make sure I do things right. My bike wouldn't be pushing over a 100 miles everyday without everyones help from here. All of my repairs have solely been sourced here So many thanks.
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jun 2, 2015 5:36:19 GMT -6
Gotcha! So the shims would go under the needle jet, part ref 16009: www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/Motorcycle/1986/EN450-A2+454+LTD/CARBURETOR+PARTS/parts.htmlAnd as far as the 135 jet, is there a part number that you know of off the top of your head? There's not really any aftermarket part places in my area, I order typically factory parts, but they max at 130. Edit: Found a 135 jet on a carb site And you didn't make it out that I didn't know what I was doing! Everyone here has always been more than helpful. I ask alot of Q's because I just want to make sure I do things right. My bike wouldn't be pushing over a 100 miles everyday without everyones help from here. All of my repairs have solely been sourced here So many thanks. You got it.The washers lift the needle to richen in the mid-range.I had to go one step further & cut a couple of coils of the Diaphram spring so the slides would react quicker.You may not have to do this.
|
|
|
Post by mik3 on Jun 7, 2015 15:04:34 GMT -6
Ok, so got the pods installed, using 135 main jet, idles great, top end 7k+ is crazy powerful. Right now I have 4 3mm washers on each needle and clipped 3.25 rings off each spring. It's rideable, but is definitely lacking in the midrange, was trimming the springs down .25 a time and was getting better each time. Can I go 1 more shim? I didn't want to cut down the spring anymore. Any other tips? I did a valve adjustment within the last 1k miles.
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jun 7, 2015 15:10:44 GMT -6
Ok, so got the pods installed, using 135 main jet, idles great, top end 7k+ is crazy powerful. Right now I have 4 3mm washers on each needle and clipped 3.25 rings off each spring. It's rideable, but is definitely lacking in the midrange, was trimming the springs down .25 a time and was getting better each time. Can I go 1 more shim? I didn't want to cut down the spring anymore. Any other tips? I did a valve adjustment within the last 1k miles. Yes try another washer you can always reverse it.
|
|
|
Post by mik3 on Jun 7, 2015 16:11:29 GMT -6
Ok, so 6 washers each carb in total. She rips now, going to put some miles on it and order new needle springs as well. I think another 1/2 to 3/4 off the spring and she'll be perfect, but will do that with a new set of springs on hand just in case I never tried the 130's, went straight for the 135's and she sounds amazing now
|
|
|
Post by mik3 on Jun 7, 2015 18:59:44 GMT -6
So, trimmed another 1/4 off, so up to nearly 4 rings off the springs. Runs smooth, but at 7.5k i get a boost of power. Tried 7 shins, ran doggish, tried 5 and worse. So 6 shims is the grace zone. Any other ideas? Would dropping to the 130 from the 135 be an idea?
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jun 7, 2015 19:45:48 GMT -6
So, trimmed another 1/4 off, so up to nearly 4 rings off the springs. Runs smooth, but at 7.5k i get a boost of power. Tried 7 shins, ran doggish, tried 5 and worse. So 6 shims is the grace zone. Any other ideas? Would dropping to the 130 from the 135 be an idea? Can't hurt to try.....At this point it a guessing game till you hit the sweet spot.
|
|
|
Post by mik3 on Jun 8, 2015 15:14:29 GMT -6
Floats were way off, also t'd the vacuum. 135's, 3 shims with a few rings off the springs. Anyway to place an audio file? Recorded one of 0-60.
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jun 8, 2015 17:26:07 GMT -6
Floats were way off, also t'd the vacuum. 135's, 3 shims with a few rings off the springs. Anyway to place an audio file? Recorded one of 0-60. Sorry. I don't know how to do that........Working better now.?
|
|
|
Post by mik3 on Jun 8, 2015 17:46:36 GMT -6
Definitely running ok. But not quite there yet. Just did a ride on the freeway and it doesn't pull hard at all in 5th and 6th full open. Also, it's running hot, about 1/8th from overheat. I'm thinking the 135's are too much. I'm going to swap back the 126's and retest from there since i had overlooked the float bowls from the start. As far as the audio upload, need to convert it to a video and upload to youtube. Will figure something out when i find a better jet
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jun 8, 2015 18:08:16 GMT -6
Definitely running ok. But not quite there yet. Just did a ride on the freeway and it doesn't pull hard at all in 5th and 6th full open. Also, it's running hot, about 1/8th from overheat. I'm thinking the 135's are too much. I'm going to swap back the 126's and retest from there since i had overlooked the float bowls from the start. As far as the audio upload, need to convert it to a video and upload to youtube. Will figure something out when i find a better jet Thanks.......Keep us updated.
|
|
|
Post by mik3 on Jun 10, 2015 0:44:41 GMT -6
Ok, so for the meantime went back to the stock 125's and airbox. Way too much ride time this week to and from work to possibly burn a ring. Question though, when you made your switch, what needle do you have? N31D or N31E? The N31D is the california needle, which I have. Just wondering if this would affect the switch and tuning for pods. I tried the 125's, and the same scenario, mid range is really off regardless of washer counts and couldn't get it right. The 135's were burning really rich, figured that out by running at 6k and cutting the engine and checking plugs. I don't think the N31E's are availables anywhere anymore. If I need those, not sure where to go or how to work around this. I am going to order every needle size up to 140 and go down this road again after my road trip starting next week, but for now it's on the back burner.
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jun 10, 2015 5:35:08 GMT -6
Ok, so for the meantime went back to the stock 125's and airbox. Way too much ride time this week to and from work to possibly burn a ring. Question though, when you made your switch, what needle do you have? N31D or N31E? The N31D is the california needle, which I have. Just wondering if this would affect the switch and tuning for pods. I tried the 125's, and the same scenario, mid range is really off regardless of washer counts and couldn't get it right. The 135's were burning really rich, figured that out by running at 6k and cutting the engine and checking plugs. I don't think the N31E's are availables anywhere anymore. If I need those, not sure where to go or how to work around this. I am going to order every needle size up to 140 and go down this road again after my road trip starting next week, but for now it's on the back burner. I had the Canadian model.It was emission delete so I would imagine N31E...I can't see it making any difference at it's being raised.The needles are the same in the Vulcan or Ninja carbs.They are also bigger CFM (37 compaired to our 34)
|
|
|
Post by alex on Jul 15, 2015 13:51:53 GMT -6
Gotcha! So the shims would go under the needle jet, part ref 16009: www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Kawasaki/Motorcycle/1986/EN450-A2+454+LTD/CARBURETOR+PARTS/parts.htmlAnd as far as the 135 jet, is there a part number that you know of off the top of your head? There's not really any aftermarket part places in my area, I order typically factory parts, but they max at 130. Edit: Found a 135 jet on a carb site And you didn't make it out that I didn't know what I was doing! Everyone here has always been more than helpful. I ask alot of Q's because I just want to make sure I do things right. My bike wouldn't be pushing over a 100 miles everyday without everyones help from here. All of my repairs have solely been sourced here So many thanks. hello guys i am having a terrible time finding any good and not to expensive parts for my 86 454.. i am in desperate need of a good carb rebuild kit and also looking for a new throttle set up including grips.
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jul 15, 2015 17:58:51 GMT -6
I am thinking of changing to pod filters. They are 54 mm? And what size filter will i need for the crank case? And if anyone has a link for what to do with the hoses that would be great.. I know I've seen it on here but Im not sure where Yep 54 mm pods.I think 1/4" for crankcase.Use the bottom half of the original hose & push filter into it. Most hoses get eliminated.Just need vacuum from left carb to petcock......Block off the right one.
|
|
|
Post by sparky on Aug 18, 2015 16:35:03 GMT -6
Alright guys I just rebuilt the top end on my En 450 and bobbed it out pretty decent I am just havin carb problems or maybe coil. It will idle decent but as soon as I give it throttle is bogs down and won't pull its own weight I have 1 shim on both needles and pod filters I have tore the carbs down and rebuilt them it has 135 main jets I didn't think to look at the pilot jet size but it seems to be stock. I have my air fuel mixture screw at 2 turns out right now I have tried it with them way out and way in and it doesn't change the result. I have check the timing and valves and all are in specs. Please help
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Aug 18, 2015 19:10:22 GMT -6
Should i order additional larger jets as well? I dont mind buying ones i wont use so they're on hand in case the 130's arent large enough? Yep.....I would
|
|