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Post by rctaudio on Feb 26, 2010 0:38:18 GMT -6
Hey Guys, first off I've got a black 89 454 LTD. She is my first bike and I've only had her for about 3 months. I think i overpaid for it when I've read other people here picking their bike up for under a grand, but its all good. I paid a $950 for mine and it is in pretty good condition. I'll get some pictures up soon. Anyways about a month back it was having some issues running ( it would start to idle weird and massive loss of power and then not want to start again) I then had it stored in my garage until I could find time to work on it. I pulled the carb off and found the problems... I think. One of the floats would move up and down freely and the other one was really sticky, nothing a little carb cleaner wouldn't clean. then when I opened up the bottom of the carbs I noticed one off the gaskets was broken... well it looked like it was ripped or "blew up" and there was a 1/2" of gasket that was missing. I then turned the carb upside down and started to shake it and out fell the missing chunk of gasket Anyways on to my question I'm in the process of getting it all back together and decided to put on aftermarket air filters. I bought the ones off ebay for the ninja (the ones that are supposed to fit) and was wondering about all the "extra" smog equipment. I just want to make sure I cap off all the right things and reroute everything so It runs when I get the filters in next week. I've read through the write up that GWK had and from the diagram it looks like I only cap the 2 pipes coming from the bottom of the fuel tank and I've got to get a T for the vacuum line that goes from the 2 carbs to the petcock. Anybody know what size crankcase breather to get? I guess I had more then one question but I've got one more and then I'm done for now. I want to remove the baffles from my exhaust to see how loud it is. I haven't actually attempted this (as I'd like to get the bike running again before I do more mods) but how to do you remove the baffles? I don't see any screws inside the tips. Thanks in advance!!! I'm so excited to get my bike running again and back on the road. My only regret is that I didn't start riding sooner
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Post by chopperfreak2k1 on Feb 26, 2010 8:52:48 GMT -6
first, i do not think you over paid for your bike. second, crank case breather is 5/8". third, drill the 4 rivets in the end of the muffler and the baffles should come right out. i can't answer your other questions, but someone who can should be along soon. welcome to the asylum brother!!
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Post by tinlizzie37 on Feb 26, 2010 9:37:59 GMT -6
Hi rct, welcome to the forum. Make sure you do a good job on the carbs. Lots of cleaner and air pressure to blow any crap out. Get new gaskets and any o'rings (harbor freight metric) that are needed. A good factory manual will be worth the price you pay. Make sure to put a good fuel filter on before you try to start it, or you may wind up doing them over and over. It wouldn't hurt to put a little Seafoam in the gas tank to help clean out anything left in the carbs. I don't know if it's a wise move to replace the air box with pod filters or not. That will mean playing around with different size jets in the carbs. I don't know if it would add any more power to the bike or not. I'm new to the 454 myself. I'm just giving you the experience I had with my Kaw KZ 650. Good luck. Bob
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Post by rctaudio on Feb 26, 2010 9:52:18 GMT -6
first, i do not think you over paid for your bike. second, crank case breather is 5/8". third, drill the 4 rivets in the end of the muffler and the baffles should come right out. i can't answer your other questions, but someone who can should be along soon. welcome to the asylum brother!! Thanks! I was kinda thinking I needed to Drill them out but I wasnt sure.
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Post by rctaudio on Feb 26, 2010 9:57:29 GMT -6
Hi rct, welcome to the forum. Make sure you do a good job on the carbs. Lots of cleaner and air pressure to blow any crap out. Get new gaskets and any o'rings (harbor freight metric) that are needed. A good factory manual will be worth the price you pay. Make sure to put a good fuel filter on before you try to start it, or you may wind up doing them over and over. It wouldn't hurt to put a little Seafoam in the gas tank to help clean out anything left in the carbs. I don't know if it's a wise move to replace the air box with pod filters or not. That will mean playing around with different size jets in the carbs. I don't know if it would add any more power to the bike or not. I'm new to the 454 myself. I'm just giving you the experience I had with my Kaw KZ 650. Good luck. Bob ugg... does it really let that much more air in that It would require new jets? I was toying with the idea, not necessairly for the power gain but for the ease of R/R. The stock air box and carb was a PITA to get out and I really didnt want to put it back in and then deal with it again if i need to work on something on my bike. I really dont want to fully rebuild the carbs. I've never tuned one before and idk I've just got it stuck in my head that it will take me a LONG time to get it right.
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Post by eaglerider on Feb 26, 2010 11:11:10 GMT -6
Apparently, y'all have not searched thru the forum and read answers to the questions asked here. I, and others, have answered the air filter/jet question many times. I do believe I even have my answer about the pod filters posted in the photogallery, with pics of my bike.
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Post by ridgerunner on Feb 26, 2010 15:34:36 GMT -6
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Post by rctaudio on Feb 26, 2010 16:29:15 GMT -6
Apparently, y'all have not searched thru the forum and read answers to the questions asked here. I, and others, have answered the air filter/jet question many times. I do believe I even have my answer about the pod filters posted in the photogallery, with pics of my bike. I guess I should have specified. I just wanted to make sure there isnt anything else I need to do for my California bike, as far as emissions equipment goes.
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Post by eaglerider on Feb 26, 2010 18:29:24 GMT -6
If u are not in Calif - pull it all off. The two hose ports on the valve cover will have to be capped, also.
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Post by rctaudio on Feb 27, 2010 1:02:25 GMT -6
ok thanks Eagle, i've got most of it done now, I just gotta wait to go to the auto parts store to pick up some 5/8 vacuum caps. Any sugestions on how to get the breather valve to stay on the crankcase? there isnt any lip on it and its only like 1/2" and everytime I try and tighten the clamp it slides upwards and then I can gently pull on the filter and it comes right off. It seems to hold on tighter without the clamp
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Post by tripster on Feb 27, 2010 4:25:30 GMT -6
hi eagleride i did not know you can cap off the 2 hose conection on the valve covers it wont hurt running of the bike cause i have no air box also i just put hoses on them
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Post by eaglerider on Feb 27, 2010 5:59:18 GMT -6
Hopefully, u still have the little hose that originally fit on the breather....trim it just a little, jam it into the hose of the filter, then clamp the whole thing on ...hope u understand what i am talking about.
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Post by rctaudio on Feb 27, 2010 10:38:40 GMT -6
oh ok so you used the little hooked piece that was originally on there. I'll try that out. I was trying it with a new piece of 5/8 vacuum line. Thanks Eagle
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Post by rctaudio on Feb 27, 2010 16:48:39 GMT -6
welps, after a few hours of playin she is now running!!!! ;D After I got everthing buttoned up and finally got her started she was running really really rich and wouldnt idle, she also started dumping fuel out of one of the right side float bowl. So i took it apart and noticed that one of the new gaskets did not fit well, it was a little to big so it kept sliping out on one side. I also decieded to pull out the little stoppers attached to the floats to look at them and when I pulled them off I noticed that the rubber tips were missing . So i shook the carb upsidedown and out the tips fell. I replaced those parts and put the bowl all back together using the old gasket(it was still very rubbery and seemed ok. everthing buttoned up now and she idles perfect and revs up somewhat good. now I'm wondering if i do need to adjust the jets since like anything over 1/2 throttle and the mixture leans out and starts to sputter. I'm thinking it may be getting to much air since my filters have not come in yet? or maybe i need to adjust my floats so theres more fuel in the bowl? what do you guys think?
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Post by eaglerider on Feb 27, 2010 16:57:44 GMT -6
Are u running without filters? this engine does not like "no air filters. You will most likely need to adjust the idle mixture - it is on the bottom of the carbs, covered by a small metal "plug" whivh must be carefully drilled & popped out -- start with lightly closing the screw(s), then backing them out 2 1/2 turn, then after the engine is running and at operating temp, u can fine tune them.
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Post by rctaudio on Feb 27, 2010 18:39:16 GMT -6
Are u running without filters? this engine does not like "no air filters. You will most likely need to adjust the idle mixture - it is on the bottom of the carbs, covered by a small metal "plug" whivh must be carefully drilled & popped out -- start with lightly closing the screw(s), then backing them out 2 1/2 turn, then after the engine is running and at operating temp, u can fine tune them. yes i am running without any filters. is that why it cuts out? it idles perfectly and revs up a little bit. FYI I have also removed the Baffles if that helps any. My pod filters should be coming in early next week so I was trying to get it all ready so I could just slap the filters in and go. What kind of things do these engines do without any filters on?
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Post by rctaudio on Feb 27, 2010 18:53:51 GMT -6
so yeah I solved my own question I went outside and had my wife hold one of the air filter elements over the carb and the idle changed a little bit and when I reved it it went up pretty high and didnt start to cut out. now I should have done this before i adjusted the float level. so now heres another question. should I change the float lever back to what it was before? also is there a general measurement for how far from the top the float sits on a relatively stock bike? I dont have the fuel guage and I dont really understand how to adjust it according to the book. I just know to bend the tab down if you want more fuel in the bowl and up if you want less in the bowl. I bent it down prior to Eagle telling me it doesnt run right without the filters so now It lets more fuel into the bowl. so as long as it doesnt leak anywhere it should be fine.. right? sorry If i've got a lot of questions but this is the first carb i've ever worked on so I'm on learning overload right now ;D. If I ask a stupid question i'm sorry.
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Post by eaglerider on Feb 27, 2010 18:59:21 GMT -6
got kinda lucky - they usually wont even hardly idle. As long as the carbs dont leak, u should be ok. And as far as I am concerned, there is no such thing as a dumb/stupid question, when a person is learning, as long as he/she will listen, and follow good advise.
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Post by sctsgt on Feb 27, 2010 22:47:07 GMT -6
The only stupid question is the one you don't ask. Welcome aboard.
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Post by bigandrew85 on Feb 27, 2010 22:49:13 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum rctaudio Good luck getting her running right
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Post by rctaudio on Mar 2, 2010 14:03:28 GMT -6
Shes all Better!!! mostly ;D Had a nice box sittin on my porch after work, opened it up and found some shinny new air filters. I installed them and it was still doing the same thing I didnt have any bandanas to wrap around the filters so grabed a shoptowel folded in half, wrapped around, and ziptied one to each airfilters. Now she runs almost perfectly. And with the covers back on you barely see the red shop towl Took her out for a quick spin last night and it was a blast! The only think I noticed was a slight hesitation at WOT in 6th so It might not even be a problem. Thanks Guys for all your help, especially you Eagle. I'll be posting some stuff up later as I plan on swapping out all the lights for LED's and gettin HID for upfront. I'll keep you posted and I promise I'll get some pics up soon, although it is pretty much stock so its nothing new
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Post by eaglerider on Mar 2, 2010 18:47:15 GMT -6
;D Remember that when u swap to LEDs, u will have to change the flasher unit to an electrical unit, as the mechanical stock one will not work with LEDs.
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