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Post by pelermon on Mar 6, 2010 21:44:18 GMT -6
Why does coolant run out of that hole on between under the top cooling fin of the cylinder ? It running out of the right side.
My 86 LTD 454 ran perfectly 8 months ago. I just went to start it a week ago and it would not run on both cylinders. I pulled the carbs off and cleaned them thoroughly. Had to do it three times (o-ring idle mixture screw cocked) Started it and now I have coolant wet out the right side.
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Post by eaglerider on Mar 6, 2010 21:49:55 GMT -6
The coolant is more than likely comming from the coolant hose attached to the tube going into the head, or the connection of the tube at the head. There is an O ring that will deteriate, and leak, or the tube itself could have rusted, and a hole is in the tube.
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Post by pelermon on Mar 6, 2010 22:08:01 GMT -6
The coolant is more than likely comming from the coolant hose attached to the tube going into the head, or the connection of the tube at the head. There is an O ring that will deteriate, and leak, or the tube itself could have rusted, and a hole is in the tube. Your right - I did not notice the coolant at the tube. Does that tube simply pull out of the head by any chance ? Also - Is there a good source for the Carburetor bowl gasket ? It looks like they may be flattened. Before I discovered the cocked o-ring I thought the problem could have been the seal on the bowl because the motor would speed up if I strayed the bowl with carb cleaner. I cut a bowl gasket and put it on the carb anyway but I would like to put new bowl gaskets on anyway.
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Post by sctsgt on Mar 7, 2010 10:13:35 GMT -6
There is a small bolt/screw and clip that hold the pipes in place. The o-ring is probably flattened and leaking.
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Post by brybo86 on Jan 27, 2011 13:24:45 GMT -6
So I got a 454ltd last year with about 9500 miles on it. I drove it back to Chicago from Southern WI without any problems. I noticed on the ride home that it was very boggy when under 5k rpm. I cleaned the carbs and now it it much more peppy at lower rpm. I have adjusted the valves as well as changing other fluids/oil etc. Somewhere in cleaning carbs and adjusting valves I have developed a coolant leak... Which I believe is causing the bike to overheat within 5-10 minutes of traffic/city driving. I did not noticed any of the leaking/overheating before doing any work on the bike. It seeps mainly out of the left cylinder weep hole/sparkplug area, and I have noticed it once or twice from the right side weephole as well. I first noticed it after putting the carbs back on. I ordered new Orings that go on the coolant pipes as they slip down into the cylinder, the old ones were slightly flattened. Problem is the thing still leaks coolant. On a side note, yes the fan does come on a little before 1/2 on the temp gauge but then shuts off at about 3/4 on the gauge? I would think it should stay on continuously past 1/2 temp. Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be the problem? Is there some sort of lubricant that I should be putting on the coolant Orings? Or something to seal them in place? I am hoping that the leak wherever it is, is causing the system to not become pressurized, allowing the bike to get hotter than normal. Or could the coolant pump somehow have broken when I fixed carbs and valves? Is there a "special" way to fill the system with coolant(maybe I have an air bubble somewhere). I know is a long rambling post. but any help would be greatly appreciated. -Bryan
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Post by Blaine on Jan 27, 2011 17:46:34 GMT -6
The o-rings should be lubricated before you seat the pipes,to make sure they don't roll out of the groove.Also be sure the pipes are in good shape and not rusted under the o-rings.When filling with coolant,the bike should be running to prevent air locks.
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Post by garrethr on Jan 29, 2011 17:23:34 GMT -6
My coolant tank is busted and has been for a while. The gauge itself reads just fine but I've never even come close to over heating. I thought coolant in these lower models were more of "just in case" than anything else. My 454 is also my first bike ever so I will be newbin' up these posts.
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Post by Blaine on Jan 29, 2011 19:14:21 GMT -6
My coolant tank is busted and has been for a while. The gauge itself reads just fine but I've never even come close to over heating. I thought coolant in these lower models were more of "just in case" than anything else. My 454 is also my first bike ever so I will be newbin' up these posts. The coolant tank makes up part of a "closed system."In a closed system the jug collects the coolant as it heats up and expands.When you shut the vehicle off and it cools off, the coolant is sucked back into the radiator.Back in the 50's & 60's there was no tank and a little coolant escaped into the air.These were referred to as a "open system"The same way yours is working without the jug.
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Post by eaglerider on Jan 29, 2011 22:49:49 GMT -6
The coolant capacity of these is rather low, so you have to keep a close watch. The system is like the ones on autos...the "jug" is part of the coolant capacity of the system, so the less coolant the system has to cool the engine, the harder it has to work to do so. If the coolant gets too low, you will endanger the engine.
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Post by garrethr on Jan 30, 2011 14:52:36 GMT -6
My jug doesn't have a hole, just a minor crack in the bottom corner. I was actually thinking of putting an epoxy/resin type glue over it but wasn't sure if it would be wasting my time.
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Post by Blaine on Jan 30, 2011 15:27:27 GMT -6
My jug doesn't have a hole, just a minor crack in the bottom corner. I was actually thinking of putting an epoxy/resin type glue over it but wasn't sure if it would be wasting my time. Epoxy resin should work fine.Mine had a crack in the side and I repaired it with clear silicone.
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Post by eaglerider on Jan 30, 2011 15:31:25 GMT -6
Many ways have been tried to repair these , unfortunately, I know of no method that will really work. Apparently ,it is the materials that were used in making them.
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Post by Blaine on Jan 30, 2011 16:27:56 GMT -6
Many ways have been tried to repair these , unfortunately, I know of no method that will really work. Apparently ,it is the materials that were used in making them. Mine was repaired last year with silcone,doesn't leak a drop.
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Post by garrethr on Jan 30, 2011 18:53:33 GMT -6
The stuff I am going to use is actually what my wife uses to seal her bottlecaps.
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Post by brybo86 on Jan 31, 2011 0:15:12 GMT -6
The o-rings should be lubricated before you seat the pipes,to make sure they don't roll out of the groove.Also be sure the pipes are in good shape and not rusted under the o-rings.When filling with coolant,the bike should be running to prevent air locks. Hopefully it is the o rings, I vaguely remember putting a dab of motor oil on the rings the second time I put them on... Is that what you mean by lubricated? If it was an air lock could that actually cause a leak? Or just poor cooling? Also any thought on the fan cutting out at 3/4 on the temp gauge? The pipes didn't have any rust on them when I had them off
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Post by Blaine on Jan 31, 2011 6:18:20 GMT -6
A drop of motor oil works well as lubricant for the o-rings.If you had a air lock your gage would give you a false reading.Also it would not need to leak much for it to overheat as the radiator does not much.
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Post by trickster on Feb 4, 2011 11:12:24 GMT -6
My jug doesn't have a hole, just a minor crack in the bottom corner. I was actually thinking of putting an epoxy/resin type glue over it but wasn't sure if it would be wasting my time. I went through the same thing. My bottle was cracked. I had to find a replacement after a sealer was used. Ive been looking on ebay and some dealers have plenty of parts but the sad part is too many of them have a set price and no bidding. Ebay also has a rebuild kit for your carbs. Opening bid is 9 bucks. ebay.com
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Post by garrethr on Feb 6, 2011 17:30:44 GMT -6
After taking my carbs apart I realized I didn't need a rebuild kit. My bike recently stopped working and it seems my leaky petcock caused all the problems.
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Post by brybo86 on Mar 18, 2011 20:08:46 GMT -6
Any idea on here as to why my fan turns on just before 1/2 and turns OFF at 3/4? It comes back on once below 3/4 again.....?
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Post by eaglerider on Mar 19, 2011 7:02:52 GMT -6
It shouldn't turn off at that point. The thermo switch in the bottom of the radiator could be malfunctioning. The system works just like an auto with an electric fan..when the temp reaches a set poin t, the fan stays on until the temp drops below that set point. Have you flushed & cleaned your cooling system? Perhaps there is some gunk in the radiator.cooling system that is causing the problem.
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Post by Blaine on Mar 19, 2011 7:25:29 GMT -6
Any idea on here as to why my fan turns on just before 1/2 and turns OFF at 3/4? It comes back on once below 3/4 again.....? Did you get your leaking problem fixed? 8-)It sounds like a air lock,or your thermo switch is bad.
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Post by brybo86 on Mar 20, 2011 14:28:41 GMT -6
I just bought a new battery today and will get into this very soon.
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Post by brybo86 on Apr 9, 2011 23:17:59 GMT -6
So I got a new battery thinking that was the problem...removed the starter motor without removing carbs(if that wasnt genius...) Basically had to fit the motor together and bolt it in that tiny little space. Anyways, cleaning starter motor did nothing, bikes still wouldn't start. Took off the starter clutch and roughed up the rollers with some sandpaper...started on first try. Alright so now I believe that the leak is only happening when the bikes coolant is literally boiling... I started it cold and brought it up to temp, it definitely bubbled alot. The fan is still being very sporadic. Sometimes will come on and some times it won't, I know you had mentioned the thermo switch... How might I go about checking it? Thanks
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Post by brybo86 on Apr 10, 2011 21:58:36 GMT -6
Being my first motorcycle maybe I don't know... Does everyones bike on here that they believe is functioning normally, Overheat in stop and go traffic, sub 30mph city driving?
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Post by Blaine on Apr 11, 2011 5:25:07 GMT -6
Being my first motorcycle maybe I don't know... Does everyones bike on here that they believe is functioning normally, Overheat in stop and go traffic, sub 30mph city driving? Your bike shouldnt overheat in traffic if working properly.It sounds like your cooling system is plugged up and needs flushing & cleaned.I don't think it's your thermo switch as the fan is comming on.If your rad is plugged,CLR will do a good job of cleaning it.
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Post by brybo86 on Apr 11, 2011 7:47:30 GMT -6
Being my first motorcycle maybe I don't know... Does everyones bike on here that they believe is functioning normally, Overheat in stop and go traffic, sub 30mph city driving? Your bike shouldnt overheat in traffic if working properly.It sounds like your cooling system is plugged up and needs flushing & cleaned.I don't think it's your thermo switch as the fan is comming on.If your rad is plugged,CLR will do a good job of cleaning it. I drained the coolant last year and filled with new, looked new not chunks or anything. Can I just dump CLR in through the radiator cap? Or do I have to remove the radiator for this? Diluted CLR or full strength?
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Post by Blaine on Apr 11, 2011 13:32:58 GMT -6
Drain your coolant and add CLR full strength and let your bike come up to temperature.Than shut off and drain.Than put your coolant back in.A good way to tell if your rad is plugged is to bring the bike up to temperature and :)move your hand over the front of the rad,if you find any cool spots,it's a sign that the rad is plugged and the hot coolant is not circulating through the rad.
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Post by brybo86 on Apr 12, 2011 20:13:41 GMT -6
Radiator feels like it is on fire when bike heats up, no cold spots.
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Post by Blaine on Apr 12, 2011 20:22:26 GMT -6
Radiator feels like it is on fire when bike heats up, no cold spots. Thats a good sign that your rad is not plugged.With the rad cover removed can you see the coolant circulating?
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Post by brybo86 on May 17, 2011 11:04:51 GMT -6
Yeh if I run the bike with the Rad cap off the coolant is definitely circulating. After driving to work last week when it was 40 degrees outside I noticed the the temp guage only got to the low cold coolant temp line... What actual temp is the cold side line? 150? This makes me think that the thermostat is broken and is constantly circulating the coolant.... The broken thermostat is not correctly turning on the fan when the bike warms up in stop and go traffic... Correct me if this is either normal or not possible,
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