Pod filter idea

[scottm]

I put new emgo pods on the other day, bike was cutting out at 4500rpm so looked up posts about re-jetting and found people had to restrict the air flow in most cases any way, so I tried the cut up tin can inside the pod but not much difference then I noticed that the top of the can (the hard outer rim) was about the same size as the pod so I removed all the tin from the top of the can and pushed it in the opening of the pod making it so the only air coming throgh the pod is through the mouth piece (where the beer comes through) bike was great down low but cut out at 6000, cut the mouth piece open a tiny bit more, cut out at 6500 7000, cut them open just a touch more now she is running great, if u put the top of the can in the right way it wonte stop the pod from fitting all the way onto the carby, hope this works for other people (that's if you can figure out what I mean) sorry can't do photos, don't have computer just iphone

[mradam]

so you saying to just build a restricter plate that fits the inside of the pod opening, rather than trying to restrict flow at the element, simple enough lol, i will have to see what mine does when i get it up and going.

[pya977]

another way is to use the plastic end from postal tubes these fit in the mouth of the pod filters. just cut the lip off and in they pop, next drill a hole in the middle till bike runs, this will take time to get the hole or holes the best size for your bike. cheap and simple thats the shetland way

[ibuiltmine]

Im curious why you don't just re jet it
not trying to be a jerk, but if you need help re jetting it, I can give you some pointers.

The reason you put on pods if for unrestricted flow and better performance. Choking it back down is a contradiction.

[Blaine]

When I put pods on my bike I rejetted & shimmed the needles.I had different mechanics tell me the CV carbs will not work properly without some restriction to make a air pressure difference so the slides will raise properly so you do not get a hesitation.I currently run #130 MJ & raised needles,with about 1/3 of the pod restricted.With this set up,she runs strong with no hesitation.I know others have put pods on without rejetting & none of these problems.I'm at sea level.Your thoughts???

[ibuiltmine]

Ah! ok. I see what the concern is. Yes, no they will not work quite right with pods, but its not from the restriction, its just getting a weird vacuum signal right at the front of the carb. those little holes in the carb throat, some of them help balance both sides of the diaphragm and make it work smoother.
The problem you will have is not much more then an eratic idle. If you watch your rpm when you roll up to a stop then you should be good to go. The more cylinders you have the less of a problem you will have, too. I have never really had my 454 die at idle with an open carb, but my GN400 chop. holy cow, you have to fiddle with the idle knob at every stop light. The ninja with 4 carbs. do not even notice it.

there are a couple tricks you can do. cut the diaphragm spring in half, or completely remove it (i did, but i DO NOT RECOMMENd THAT TO ANY ONE) there is a very slight possibility that the slide will stick wide open and that can get scary. I have never ever ever ever ever had that happen, but I can not recommend doing it to. if you do it though your throttle response will be spectacular!
you can also put some sort of intake on the front side of the carb, like a rubber tube, then attach theh pods to it to smooth the air flow. there are TONS of tricks to do to CV carbs. They are awesome, and all I would run on a bike that was not injected. (why not EFI a 454? oh man that would be a fun project...... not too hard and very do-able.

[Blaine]

Cool.Just wanted your thoughts on the subject.

[chopperfreak2k1]

IBM, would you be willing to give us lowly chopper hacks a write up on these mods as passed down by the chop gods?

that's right, you heard the smooch of some serious bottom kissin'. i am not ashamed.

[ibuiltmine]

Honestly that's about all I know, because its all I have ever had to do. CV carbs are about as forgiving as a pair of spandex pants!
All I ever do is clean them, carefully make sure the diaphragm is in good shape and the lid seals tight. I usually take the spring out, but only if the carb is in good shape then my rule of thumb after removing the air box is 10 to 12 main jet sizes bigger, and it will usually fire up and run good enough for me to put some miles on it and get a good spark plug read. I dont even usually mess with the needle until later down the road if it needs it.
I don't worry about he fluttery idle. if it starts to die a little i rev it up.
but on a twin you don't have to worry about erratic idle.

There are some mikuni round slide conversions that some people do pretty common to an xs650, but it has been done so much that the jet sizes and tuning is almost text book.
I just like it simple and reliable, so I like CV carbs.

[chopperfreak2k1]

can you suggest any good CV carb reading?


read: you are light years ahead of me and i want to learn... sir

[ibuiltmine]

just google, buddy. in the 454ltd world I would suggest googling what the en500 kids are doing, OR figure out the model carb these bike s have and figure out something that has the same carbs, like a 900 ninja. I can cut, weld and wire, but when it comes to carbs I don't know a lot. Even less about the motor!

matter of fact, for me to be interested in a bike to chop its got to run and drive perfectly because I don't want to mess with the motor.
I am a fan of factory when it comes to the actual mechanics of the bike. I can twist and contort the frame to whatever, but I like a good reliable engine to push it down the road.