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Post by remat457 on Aug 22, 2012 12:03:56 GMT -6
Ok, new thread this one focusing on jets! I keep killing my battery with my hard start issues so I pulled the carbs again. A couple of questions on the jets... 1. Pilot jet - I can blow air and see light through all of the openings, but the top opening is tiny in comparison to the sides. Is that correct or could it be partially gummed? I have a hard time idling after starting. 2. 16017: JET-NEEDLE - the Haynes says small side goes in first. That can mean several different things (small diameter? small displacement? small as in short?) but it looks like it will actually only go in one way which is small outside diameter goes through the body. Is this correct? Just want to get these things correct before putting it together again  Thanks (yet again)! |
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Post by Blaine on Aug 22, 2012 18:52:00 GMT -6
Ok, new thread this one focusing on jets! I keep killing my battery with my hard start issues so I pulled the carbs again. A couple of questions on the jets... 1. Pilot jet - I can blow air and see light through all of the openings, but the top opening is tiny in comparison to the sides. Is that correct or could it be partially gummed? I have a hard time idling after starting. 2. 16017: JET-NEEDLE - the Haynes says small side goes in first. That can mean several different things (small diameter? small displacement? small as in short?) but it looks like it will actually only go in one way which is small outside diameter goes through the body. Is this correct? Just want to get these things correct before putting it together again Thanks (yet again)! You are correct on both counts.When I rebuilt mine I used aresol carb cleaner to insure that all openings were clean & free of any residue or varnish.   |
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Post by remat457 on Aug 23, 2012 16:19:22 GMT -6
Excellent! Thank you, looks like the second time around is much quicker and I see some things that I missed. One float was a little off and I think there was a little varnish in one of the pilot jets. I had soaked them previously in SimpleGreen and blew them out. This time was carb cleaner. I have high hopes thanks! |
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Aug 23, 2012 18:00:44 GMT -6
Before you button it all back up I suggest you spray carb cleaner through all the tiny holes you can find...near where the air filter attaches with all the jets out. Those passages are microscopic tiny and get gummed really easy, I use a syringe and acetone for those lil buggers. But spraying carb cleaner with a straw attachment should work just fine.
P.S. dont forget about checking the lil O-rings and washers in the pilot jet area.
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Post by remat457 on Aug 23, 2012 22:45:28 GMT -6
I checked all of the orifices so I was pretty confident. What a difference! It started right up, although curiously I had to use the choke. Throttle response was really sluggish open and close. And then I noticed -- fuel coming from carb #1  looks to be at the seam, so I assume the gasket. Dang it. Nothing from overflow tube. I actually have spare gaskets. Didn't even think to replace/check them/. I think I am going to try and take it off and replace the gasket with the carbs still on. It was still quite a pain to get them mounted properly. I think it actually took longer this time! Anybody take a bowl off with it inline? thanks |
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Post by Blaine on Aug 24, 2012 5:56:20 GMT -6
Anybody take a bowl off with it inline? thanks Yep,There is enough room.I used a 1/4 drive ratchet with a bit. |
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Post by eaglerider on Aug 24, 2012 6:35:37 GMT -6
Might oughta check the float level on that carb, also.
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Aug 24, 2012 19:36:07 GMT -6
I'm glad you got it running a bit better, the leaking is bad, if the gasket is flat and won't seal drop it in some acetone let it swell out, for a couple of minutes, then take it out and let it out gas, and shrink back down to size a few hours later, the gasket will be back to it's original round shape. don't try to clean the gasket after it comes out of the acetone, just let it out gas and re-install. I think I may have to retract what I said about the choke strictly for cold weather though. Due to Kawasaki's CV carburetor theory, put into practice. I have found that there is a specific warm up procedure for all over Kawasaki's early parallel twin motors...the procedure it outlined as follows: Open the choke completely, then start the motor. All Parallel twins require a full three to five minutes of choke before the motor warms up to its operating temperature. During the warm up, the motor will rev to 5,000 rpm; this is normal. Do not rush through the warm up phase, it is critical to attaining and maintaining the right idle speed. Once the motor has warmed, close the choke and observe the motorcycle's tachometer. If the idle is higher than 1,300 rpm, or lower than 1100; adjust the idle speed using the idle adjustment knob until the idle speed decreases to (1150-1250 plus or minus 50) I hope this helps clarify, sorry for the bad choke info earlier it still applies...just not with our bikes  |
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Post by remat457 on Aug 25, 2012 22:28:15 GMT -6
First, I have really good news to report. Float height was still good. The (carbs in place) gasket replacement was successful. The gasket was in such bad shape, I am disappointed that I didn't notice before. I just happened to have a new OEM gasket from the previous owner. Wow, a perfect fit! (not so with the rebuild kit gasket, or pilot screw spring which I also have). I will not use an aftermarket rebuilt kit again if I can help it. I was able to start it, tool around town with anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours without any starting problems! Yay! Second, the behavior JetBlack describes above is exactly how it appears to work. In fact, I was a little worried at first when the motor jumped up to about 3000 RPMs. In fact I added SeaFoam to the tank Knocking on wood that behavior will be just as good tomorrow after it has been sitting overnight. Thank you everyone for your help-- I would not be fractionally this far without it this site! |
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Aug 26, 2012 4:56:36 GMT -6
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jp
Junior Member
Posts: 188
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Post by jp on Aug 26, 2012 5:20:13 GMT -6
The only time my bike needs the choke is very chilly weather, like low 50s, or when the valves need adjusting. A quick click if the starter and immediate start, idle for bout a minute at 1000, then it goes up to 11-1200 0n its own. hmm  |
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Post by Blaine on Aug 26, 2012 5:56:35 GMT -6
First, I have really good news to report. Float height was still good. The (carbs in place) gasket replacement was successful. The gasket was in such bad shape, I am disappointed that I didn't notice before. I just happened to have a new OEM gasket from the previous owner. Wow, a perfect fit! (not so with the rebuild kit gasket, or pilot screw spring which I also have). I will not use an aftermarket rebuilt kit again if I can help it. I was able to start it, tool around town with anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours without any starting problems! Yay! Second, the behavior JetBlack describes above is exactly how it appears to work. In fact, I was a little worried at first when the motor jumped up to about 3000 RPMs. In fact I added SeaFoam to the tank Knocking on wood that behavior will be just as good tomorrow after it has been sitting overnight. Thank you everyone for your help-- I would not be fractionally this far without it this site! Good to hear!!! Enjoy the ride!!!! |
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Post by zekkfett on Aug 26, 2012 12:22:14 GMT -6
The only time my bike needs the choke is very chilly weather, like low 50s, or when the valves need adjusting. A quick click if the starter and immediate start, idle for bout a minute at 1000, then it goes up to 11-1200 0n its own. hmm I haven't had to use the choke at all this year. Go out, pump the throttle a couple times, fires right up, and I walk away. I always let it warm till the needle is at/near the middle. No problems. But then again, I do have brand new carbs, and they are Seafoamed every other tank to keep them brand new on the inside. |
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Post by remat457 on Aug 26, 2012 20:36:16 GMT -6
Good news continues! She started up effortlessly with the choke today. Took a long time to get warmed up though. I got impatient after 3-4 mins and rode it with the choke on. Didn't take long for it to run without the choke after that. I let it sit while running some errands and it really wanted the choke on to start up. Might be a little lean, but I am ok with it for the time being. I haven't tweaked the air screw, I just left them at 2.5 turns. Just ecstatic to be able to ride without worrying it won't start! New battery probably helps too Where do you guys run the vent hose? It looks like it wants to run down to the belt, which strikes me not a good idea, I moved it more forward. |
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Aug 26, 2012 22:34:03 GMT -6
remat, have you shimmed your needle jets in the slides with a small washer? If you haven't fortunately, you can do it without taking the carbs off...I can imagine you're tired of removing them by now.
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Post by Blaine on Aug 27, 2012 5:54:41 GMT -6
remat, have you shimmed your needle jets in the slides with a small washer? If you haven't fortunately, you can do it without taking the carbs off...I can imagine you're tired of removing them by now. if you can't find washers from a shop.Go to hardware store they are 3MM. |
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Post by remat457 on Sept 1, 2012 22:51:09 GMT -6
I haven't shimmed the needles. I like that I can do it without pulling the carbs off and that it is not a permanent change like drilling the starter jet out (which I would not do).
I turned out the mixture screws 2 3/4 turns. If that doesn't magically fix it, then I will pop over to ACE Hardware.
BTW, it was awesome to be able to actually drive it to work all last week!
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looks to be at the seam, so I assume the gasket. Dang it. Nothing from overflow tube. I actually have spare gaskets. Didn't even think to replace/check them/.
