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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 4, 2012 21:48:43 GMT -6
My shift linkage has a terrible amount of play in it, and.I can only find one down, neutral, and 3 up.. related problems?
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Post by eaglerider on Oct 4, 2012 22:22:08 GMT -6
Linkage can be adjusted to take most of the sloppiness out, if the ball sockets are not too worn.
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 4, 2012 23:22:10 GMT -6
How? Simple ?
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Oct 5, 2012 12:36:37 GMT -6
The side cover has to come off if you want to make it easy on yourself. I think if you search there was a post covering this topic around 3 months ago, with good pictures if I remember right...they wanted to upgrade the linkage...otherwise the manual procedure works well.
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 8, 2012 19:03:04 GMT -6
Question. How do I wire the alternator and regulator now that ive simple wired it.... ?
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 8, 2012 19:04:06 GMT -6
It runs... but not charging now....
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 8, 2012 19:22:18 GMT -6
I took it out, went a few blocks, when I got on it it would just cut out, when i let back off it idle fine. So I stopped, then I would rev it up and when rpm got high same thing, it cuts out.
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 8, 2012 19:36:20 GMT -6
I wired it the high beam only.. when its on the high beam is on. When i test it while running the battery shows12.4 volts.and runs fine until I get on it. When i stop and shut it off it wont start.again..
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Oct 9, 2012 4:11:45 GMT -6
To prevent wire hacking/disabling or just from reusing parts for multiple bikes... Kawasaki wires do change color out of some components when they hit the harness connectors...the reg/rect is one of them.
At the reg/rectifier you have: (Black, Brown, Red/White) when it hits the connector some colors change: (Black becomes (Yellow/Black)), (Brown stays Brown), ((Red/White) becomes White), all of the (Yellows stay Yellow).
I hope you're still following, because I don't know if you tied into the wires before the color change or after the change, or changed colors altogether...so this is going to be the most confusing part to follow.
REG/RECT wiring: The ((Red/White) that becomes White) connects in 3 places: Ignition switch/White, Fan relay/White, Positive post on bat((fused)(Red/White that becomes white)), Fuse Holder(Red/White).
The Brown: Hook to the rear brake light switch.
The (Black that becomes (Black/Yellow)): Into any other Black/Yellow OR to the Neg battery post OR the (Starter relay(Red/Yellow)).
Yellow: All 4 Yellows from the reg/rect go into the 4 Yellow alternator wires.
If these are hooked up as such your charging system should work unless a component is shot and connection loose; or your bike has some other issue that's not wiring related.
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 9, 2012 11:08:23 GMT -6
The white goes to battery terminal I have 3 yellow wires coming out of alternator going up to the plug.... regulator is grounded Brown is cut off not using it..
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Oct 9, 2012 17:36:06 GMT -6
Sorry I'm meant 3 instead of 4 on the Yellow, my birthday was yesterday so I wasn't completely focused. Deleting the Brown is fine. Just going to ground on the frame with the Black isn't enough in and of itself, you have to hook it into the harness ground which is Black/Yellow for the system to work well, grounding the rectifier locally helps boost lighting power etc. but it needs the harness ground to work properly. Some components are shock proofed with rubber creating a very poor to the frame ground; and the stock rear fender ABS plastic too so the Black/Yellow wire bridges these to create a good ground to all components.
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 9, 2012 19:09:20 GMT -6
I rode it today. Steam comes out of the breather hose and wont run right at high rpm in thinking blown head gasket? Can we run these dry? I used to have an air cooled Yamaha that didnt have a radiator ... expensive fix?
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Oct 9, 2012 19:43:47 GMT -6
You'd have bad compression and leaking oil if it was the gasket. The only thing I do with emissions stuff is throw it away, it causes too many problems....take a deep breath and exhale out of your mouth, that's how a motor should work. Now take a deep breath close your mouth and one nostril then exhale...that's a government idea of how a motor should work.
No don't run the bike dry it needs coolant; or else you will need a head gasket among other things, The fins on this motor are decorative for the most part and very poor at heat dissipation.
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Post by eaglerider on Oct 9, 2012 20:16:19 GMT -6
Are u talking about the breather hose that comes from the crankcase cover? (thats the round, silver cover, with the small hose that goes to the airbox). If u have smoke comming out of that hose, likely, you are not getting lubricant to the tranny gears, and bearings. And, as posted...if you run this engine, or any liquid cooled engine without coolant....u need to start looking for a replacement engine. The liquid coolant, radiator, and water pump are not there for show, just as they are not on a car or truck.
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 9, 2012 20:23:52 GMT -6
Its the air hose that comes up, from back of engine, not from top of engine. And yes it went to air box, steam and water blow out of it... and when I'm riding I cant get on it it acts like it chokes it self out but it idles fine and cruises ok at low rpm... I ditched the airbox.and I'm pretty sure its losing coolant I have to periodically top it off a bit
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Post by Jet⚡Black on Oct 9, 2012 20:48:13 GMT -6
Ooo, yeah radiator fluid in the crank case not good. Have you checked to see if your oil is tainted with coolant?
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 9, 2012 21:08:06 GMT -6
Drained oil is chocolate milk. Same as a car with coolant in oil.
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Post by Blaine on Oct 9, 2012 21:11:54 GMT -6
Its the air hose that comes up, from back of engine, not from top of engine. And yes it went to air box, steam and water blow out of it... and when I'm riding I cant get on it it acts like it chokes it self out but it idles fine and cruises ok at low rpm... I ditched the airbox.and I'm pretty sure its losing coolant I have to periodically top it off a bit O.K. lets back up for a second.You say you got rid of the air box,what are you running for filters,if any? There is a clear plastic tube that hooks to the top "T" on the carbs.It must remain unplugged & open or the bike will bog.Is your coolant recovery tank in place & operating?
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Post by eaglerider on Oct 9, 2012 21:13:33 GMT -6
If u have water(coolant) comming out of that hose, then I hate to tell you...but you have some serious problems with the engine. Either your head is cracked or jugs are cracked, allowing coolant into the crankcase. This is going to require engine removal from the frame, and disassembly, to discover where the problem is, and what components will have to be replaced. You may be able to just replace the bad parts of the top end, if the tranny bearings, and crank, rods and main gearings are ok. Really sorry to hear the situation u are facing.
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 9, 2012 21:46:46 GMT -6
Poop. Know a place I can buy a complete engine? Engine and tranny and everything is all one unit right ? Where can I buy a fresh one?
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 9, 2012 21:52:07 GMT -6
What years are the same engine and will fit?
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Post by Blaine on Oct 9, 2012 22:00:51 GMT -6
What years are the same engine and will fit? 85 to 90 are direct bolt & go.The Vulcan or Ninja 500 engine will bolt in,but need some modifying to run in the 454 frame.
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 10, 2012 20:23:53 GMT -6
I found an 89 454 on eBay for $299 plus shipping. Good compression and its painted and shines all but electronic parts and left side.covers
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Post by Blaine on Oct 10, 2012 21:11:28 GMT -6
I found an 89 454 on eBay for $299 plus shipping. Good compression and its painted and shines all but electronic parts and left side.covers If it's missing the left cover,you are missing the stator & most likely the flywheel which you will need to transfer to your motor.These parts are scare & expensive which should bring down the price of the engine.
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Post by eaglerider on Oct 10, 2012 22:52:05 GMT -6
If no stator & cover or flywheel, that should drop the price of the engine as much as the parts would cost. I would say at least $150.00.....check the prices of a flywheel, starter clutch, stator cover & stator on ebay...I might be undershooting the price of those parts.....that would make the engine in its present condition, worth about 150 bucks, maybe a bit more, without the carbs. Complete engines, without carbs should be about 375, 0r a little more, if low mileage. That is my opinion, anyway.
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 11, 2012 8:55:24 GMT -6
Ok. Thank you. Very helpful information. Whats the level of difficulty on doing head gaskets? If thats the case... machine work needed?
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Post by eaglerider on Oct 11, 2012 12:25:58 GMT -6
Should not have to have any machine work...as stated, u may have more that just a blown head gasket. Hardest part of a headgasket is getting the cams and camchain set right for the timing, and that is not too hard a job....course ya gotta have a torque wrench to get the head torqued down properly.The manual gives good instructions for all that.
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 14, 2012 11:50:30 GMT -6
Should my stator cover and stator have oil in it?
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Post by bigchris454 on Oct 14, 2012 11:56:46 GMT -6
And how do I remove the stator ?
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Post by eaglerider on Oct 14, 2012 13:18:51 GMT -6
The stator area will have a couple of tablespoonful of oil....the satator comes off with the cover. Why do u want to pull the stator cover?? No need to, unless to pull the flywheel/rotor, or starter.
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