simple wiring harness on a bobber help....

[bigchris454]

Hey there... just bought an 88 Kawasaki 454.. cut it apart and turned it into a bobber.. wiring harness is a mess, home job. Not using tach, or Speedo, or light guages just want to wire it to run, and lights including signals. Any help??? I need to know how to wire it all.. thanks!!

[eaglerider]

Sent u an email to your email address.....maybe that will help you.

[bigchris454]

Thanks! I don't Normally do wiring but the mess of a wiring harness had to go. And shops want to get rich to do it

[eaglerider]

I am not worth much at wireing,either....those are compliments of Jetblack to me...now to you.

[bigchris454]

Is there anybody out there who has done the same thing???

[Jet⚡Black]

Any specific issues you're having? I find it easier to mock up the wiring with a drawing program and run it out with colored yarn first and tie in my connections at the points needed; that way it is the actual size needed. When building a new harness.

Bobber/chopper wiring usually only covers the basics needed/wanted. And you delete the rest out entirely. The diagram Eagle gave you is for a KZ and yes it has been used/done before, I don't know if he gave you one or both diagrams; because there are two options. But not much different.

If wiring isn't your thing, buying another harness off of ebay or elsewhere will save you the headaches. As there's a lot of cutting, soldering, crimping etc. and in the long run will come out costing about the same as a good used harness.

[eaglerider]

GWK has made his own wireing harness. U will aslo need to follow the 454 wireing diagram, in order to know which wires to tie into on the igniter, regulator, etc.

[bigchris454]

Well no major issues, just took out the tach, Speedo, turn signals,dash cluster, ignition switch, and am going simple, toggle switch for power, push button start, lights turn on when power switch is on... by passing everything else but the fan and it running... I cant seem to find a diagram that matches to my igniter....

[bmwpowere36m3]

I was thinking of simplifying my harness as well. I don't have my wiring diagram in front of me, but I recall I could:

• Remove ALL starter-interlock safeties (clutch, side stand and neutral)
  
• Remove "diode" (red plug containing diodes for starter-interlock safeties)
  
• Remove starter circuit relay
  
• Wire start push-button directly to starter relay, correct?
  
• Bypass reserve lighting unit
  

[bigchris454]

I have seen one once wired to run, and a head light and tail light assembly... nothing else. I'm just not sure what wire is what out of the igniter.

[Jet⚡Black]

Wire routing of the IC igniter:

Yellow&Red: Plugs
Green: Plugs
Black: Plugs
Black&Yellow: Lights & Negative Battery post
Yellow: Pickup Coil
Red&Black turns into Black: Pickup Coil
Blue: Pickup Coil
Black&White: Pickup Coil
Brown&White: Diodes

There are liability issues for talking openly about chopping wires, and disabling safety switches etc. on an open public forum. It may be best to post your question asking if someone would PM you with the answers to a specific question.

[candidoberio]

i also have a mess of wires now that i chopped the rear and added a solo seat any advice on how to clean it up ? or where to buy one that wont look like the way it is now

[Jet⚡Black]

Take all the electronics off the mounting plates, find a container you like and fits under the seat on the non belt side of the battery, drill a hole for the wiring to pass through, some mounting holes, and a small hole for a drain on the bottom, mount it feed the wires in, hook everything up close it.

[bigchris454]

Ok so I wired it all up according to the simple diagram you pm'd me and I get lights, and the starter turns, but no fire... lame. Im almost ready to pay somebody else to figure it out.

[Jet⚡Black]

You're probably not getting fire because of one of the safety lock outs isn't "wired" right shutting down the IC ignitor. So look there...

[bwhittet]

Sorry you are having trouble. If your in the twin cities area Minnesota I'd be glad to stop by and help.

No spark..... Not sure what this simple harness diagram you were given looks like so not sure where to start.

To expand on jetblack's igniter wire breakdown:

Yellow&Red: Plugs (Positive supply) I run a key switch and the "run" switch on the RH controls. So key switch sends power to RH switch. RH switch sends power to coils and igniter. If you are just going to have toggle switch then run power from toggle switch to this wire and to the coils positive terminal. Remember if your throttle stick open while riding you'll have to try and turn off you toggle switch to kill bike.

Green: Plugs (left coil)

Black: Plugs (right coil)

Black&Yellow: Lights & Negative Battery post (Ground)

Yellow: Pickup Coil (leave wired as is with 4 pin wire connector is easiest)
Red&Black turns into Black: Pickup Coil (leave wired as is with 4 pin wire connector is easiest)
Blue: Pickup Coil (leave wired as is with 4 pin wire connector is easiest)
Black&White: Pickup Coil (leave wired as is with 4 pin wire connector is easiest)

Brown&White: Diodes (ground or ground through safety switches)


As far as the safety switches. One wire from the ignition module (brown/white stripe) that gets split into three wires and goes into the Diode. Three wires come out of the diode and one went to each safety switch (I don't remember colors and on-line copy is very hard to read) The ignition module is using this brown/white wire to look for a ground to say it is OK to have spark.

SO
If you have removed all three safety then just ground any one or all of the wires exiting the diode. Or remove diode and ground the Brown/white wire from the ignition module. Now Ignition module should think its safe and give you spark. (The diode is there to stop flow of electricity back into ignition module due to the way the safety switches are wired)

The system is set up so all three safety switches need to work together so bike will stay running. So it doesn't really work when just eliminating one safety switch. If this is the way you want to go write back what switches you want and I'll walk you through if it can work and what to do.

Now if safety switches are bypassed and still no spark.... Then maybe look at if the coils are wired correctly. Yellow/red are positive. And I believe Green is left coil and Black is right. (correct me if I'm wrong guys) If you have the green and black switched you should still have spark but bike won't run due to firing in wrong order.

Good luck.
Brian

[bigchris454]

Well, I re did all the wiring like that... I turn the switch and everything comes on. The starter turns it over.. still wont start.. and no I live in Salem Oregon, but thank you for the offer though

[bigchris454]

Is there anything else that must be wired a certain way? I wired my key ignition back in, when I turn the key on I get lights all on, and starter will turn.. and another question... the.three yellow wires from alternator to regulator.. does it matter what order they are wired?

[bigchris454]

Also, I grounded out the negative battery post the the frame and I ran all grounds to the same point... does that work? Or should some go to the battery post?

[eaglerider]

The wires from the pick-ups would (I believe) be wired a certain way, as they effect the fireing. Your grounds should be ok.

[bigchris454]

I left the pick up plugs the same.. maybe igniter has gone bad.. I dunno.. it ran before i took out the wiring harness. Im sure te valves need to be adjusted and it needs New tranny fluid and a rear tire.. think its time to put it in the shop anyways

[Blaine]

Sept 30, 2012 15:00:22 GMT -6 bigchris454 said:

I left the pick up plugs the same.. maybe igniter has gone bad.. I dunno.. it ran before i took out the wiring harness. Im sure te valves need to be adjusted and it needs New tranny fluid and a rear tire.. think its time to put it in the shop anyways

Than you should adjust the valves first.Transmission & engine are combined using the same oil.

[bwhittet]

So did you get spark yet? I stress spark not running. You keep stating won't fire which to me means engine cylinders fire. This of course is where we want to be but we should determine if there is spark or not. Once we determine there is spark we can move ahead.
So if you have a spark checker tool try that.
If not use a spark plug and watch for spark. (The darker the room is the better)
Or be bold and hold the spark plug and let other side of hand rest on engine. Then turn over bike. might give you a jolt but you'll have your answer of spark or not.

[bigchris454]

Oh ok I knew the clutch was I wasn't sure if transmission was to. Whats good oil for these then? Is valve adjustment easy?

[bigchris454]

Ok. Ill be checking spark tonight. One way or another.

[bmwpowere36m3]

Oct 1, 2012 8:19:56 GMT -6 bigchris454 said:

Oh ok I knew the clutch was I wasn't sure if transmission was to. Whats good oil for these then? Is valve adjustment easy?

It's easy enough, just time-consuming to gain access to the valve cover area for the adjustment. I run Rotella 15W-40 oil, diesel-rated oil without energy-conserving additives.

[bigchris454]

She's alive!!! Off subject... what speed transmission do I have?

[Blaine]

Oct 3, 2012 19:19:40 GMT -6 bigchris454 said:

She's alive!!! Off subject... what speed transmission do I have?

They are all 6 speed.1 down,5 up.

[Jet⚡Black]

Glad to hear you got it sorted. I'm curious what the issue was; as it might help others solve a similar problem in the future.

[bigchris454]

I didn't do a good job on hot wire to coil connection .. lol one wire...