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Post by aceonf4i on Oct 28, 2012 17:47:28 GMT -6
I have an 86 454 ltd, the PO had let it set for awhile. I got it home months ago an started reading this forum. I started by adjusting the values, then cleaned the carbs. Then I removed the smog stuff an put a small crank filter on the vent. Also changed the oil, filter and flushed the radiator.
The crossover pipe was rusted out so I did the straight pipe fix with the 1 3/4 exhaust pipe from autozone, fit like a glove. With that in mind an the pods I read all the posted on here and jet size. I chose 132.5 for the MJ an put one shim under needle the 3mm from Home Depot. I set the float height to 17mm and set the air screw to 2 1/2 turns out from bottom.
I bench synced and vacuumed synced the carbs, with a home made carb syncing tool. I few feet of clear line and some oil on a yard stick. Worked great both carbs are equal.
I also cleaned the tank put an inline filter for extra protection. So with only a pushes of the buttons she fired up. Sound like a beast I adjusted the idle to 1200 the bike sounds great. So I took it around the block it would get over 3000 Rpms without choking or dieing out.
I tried the air mixtures screw but I can screw it all the way in without any idle different? Not sure what that is about? Set them back to 2 1/2..
Here is my question I took a ole sock an covered each pod up and it ran like a champ, no more stalling or chugging at 3000rpms??? Why?
Also I get alot of popping out of the right exhaust?
Help please?
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Post by Blaine on Oct 28, 2012 19:17:31 GMT -6
It takes a certain amount of air pressure to lift the slides in the carbs.When you restrict the flow of air to the carbs it creates more vacuum to lift the slides evenly so you get no bogging or hesitation.But this also causes a loss of power.If you cut 3 coils off the top of the diaphram springs you will create less resistance for the slides to over come.Then you will be able to run the pods unrestricted.You also get quicker throttle response.If you turn the idle mixture screw in as you describe without a difference in the idle you either still have dirty jets or missing the o-rings on the idle jet needle.
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Post by aceonf4i on Oct 28, 2012 20:38:50 GMT -6
This is a dumb question and I've worked the carbs over several times but where is the idle jet needle? I may know what is just not the proper name.
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Post by aceonf4i on Oct 28, 2012 20:55:09 GMT -6
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Post by Blaine on Oct 28, 2012 21:33:28 GMT -6
This is a dumb question and I've worked the carbs over several times but where is the idle jet needle? I may know what is just not the proper name. Sorry meant "idle mixture screw"
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Post by Blaine on Oct 28, 2012 21:40:46 GMT -6
Yes the ones on the mixture screw need to be in place as shown.The one I meant to cut is the main spring under the top cover. (920818)
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Post by aceonf4i on Oct 28, 2012 22:09:17 GMT -6
Thanks for the advice, I will cut the springs and check the o-rings. I may run a dose of seafoam thru the carbs just for good measure.
I have some rust it the tank, any suggestions on a treatment for that? I am using an inline filter but would like the rust treated.
Thanks again my friend.
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Post by Blaine on Oct 29, 2012 3:44:03 GMT -6
There are acid washes that work for light rust .There are also liners that can be used,but I'm not a fan of them.I use a in-line filter & my tank has some light rust on the interior, but it has never given me any problems.
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 9, 2013 19:01:35 GMT -6
Hey Blaine, I've seen several posts talking about the carbs being synced. What exactly is it and how would I know if I needed to have it done on my bike? How do I do it or can I not do it on my own?
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Post by Blaine on Mar 9, 2013 20:03:40 GMT -6
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Post by zekkfett on Mar 9, 2013 20:36:27 GMT -6
Yep you can do it yourself.Generally if your bike is idling well & not erratic your fine. If you're getting less than 45 mpg (with moderate throttle), I'd look into syncing. I check mine at the start of every season, and every July 4th. A good carb sync can get you 25% better mileage. A manometer is super easy to build, I would recommend a THICK oil to use in a homemade one; it will be much more accurate.
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Post by BenInPA on Mar 9, 2013 20:40:39 GMT -6
Ok ill look into that. Also I noticed when I was flushing my cooling system. The right side exhaust is not as hot as the left. A friend said that the carbs might be out of sync. The bike starts pretty good and idles fine with no choke when warm. Doing valve adjustment this week. Any idea why the exhaust would be different temps?
Sent from my DROID3 using proboards
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Post by Blaine on Mar 9, 2013 21:00:34 GMT -6
If it still runs cold on that cylinder after you do a valve adjustment add some SeaFoam (Carb cleaner) to a tank of fuel.Most times it's a carb a little dirty.If that don't cure it you may want to do a carb sync just to be sure.Here is a link to a home made manometer: www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle/manometer.html
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Post by zekkfett on Mar 10, 2013 12:58:09 GMT -6
Any idea why the exhaust would be different temps? Carbs out of sync, bad coil, bad plug wire, bad spark plug, dirty carbs, valves out of adjustment, and finally the air/fuel mixture can all make one cylinder run cooler than the other. Take the spark plug out of the suspect cylinder. Give it a GOOD thorough cleaning, then stick it back in. Fire up the bike and get it up to about 3,000 rpm's as soon as possible, let it run at 3000 rpm's for about 30 seconds. While the bike is still at 3000, reach over and turn the bike off with the kill switch. (DO NOT let it idle before you turn it off, this will throw off your reading.) Pull your plug (be careful, it will be HOT), and see what it looks like. If it is a fuel issue, you should be able to tell by the color of the plug. If it's normal color and just wet, sniff it. If it smells like gas, it's most likely an electrical problem, and you can go from there. In actuality, when you set up carbs, you bench sync, then set your air screws, then vacuum sync, then you use a IR or laser thermometer, and fine tune the air screws based on the temperature of the headers (about 2 inches below where the header and cylinder head meet). Every engine size has a diff exhaust temp, and you can find these tables online. If you have the thermometer, if you set the air screws based on exhaust temperature (as it SHOULD be set up), you'll gain about 10% on gas mileage. I would do the valve adjustment first, before doing any of the above. Then take it for a ride and see if it is still having issues. If so, then start with cleaning and checking the plug on the suspect cylinder. This will narrow it down to fuel, or electrical: and you can easily go from there. It sounds to me though, like it's a fuel issue, based from the pods you put on. Also, I will add that if you do have a dirty carb, and you sync them, and use Seafoam: as soon as the blockage is cleared, your sync will no longer be accurate. You should have the bike running as well as it possibly can before doing a carb sync.
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Post by msheets on Mar 24, 2013 16:11:03 GMT -6
I have been thinking about doing a single carb conversion but I can't find anybody that has specs on the intake tube size. I've read on other forums that they are running a single cr 125 carb. I have had carb issues since day one with this bike I love it but I hate carbs
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