Cold starting, enrichment circuit?

[kenny30436]

Good afternoon everyone.

I have a little 1989 454 and I have to say that I absolutely love the bike. However, I am having a couple of issues with it that are really beginning to get aggravating.

1: The bloody thing doesn't want to start in cold weather. A friend of mine said that it was likely the enrichment circuit, but he couldn't be more specific than that. I am *not* terribly mechanically inclined, so any specific help (photographs would be nice) in that area would be nice.

2: When it is idling or decelerating, there is an odd popping sound, almost like a small backfire. This started after I cleaned the carbs, so I'm assuming that I simply did something wrong but have no idea what it would be. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. This issue, though annoying, is not my primary concern.

3: Last issue, I promise. The choke doesn't seem to work like it is supposed to. Again, I'm assuming that I did something wrong when I cleaned the carbs...what brought that on was the thing just outright quit running all together. Turned out the little jet was clogged, cleaned that and it started.

I would really, really appreciate any form of answers or ideas that I can try. I don't have a lot of money to just put the bike in the shop and let a professional deal with it right now, I just don't really care to be stranded at work again due to a dead battery.

[bmwpowere36m3]

Assuming all these symptoms occurred after taking the carbs apart and cleaning them? What's your starting procedure? Is the CHOKE cable hooked up at the carb? Is the fuel petcock functioning/supplying fuel to the carbs? Is the fuel line from the petcock routed to the lower inlet tee of the carb. Is the carb vent clear and not blocked (connected to upper tee between carbs)?

I would check the simple things first. Maybe in the process of cleaning the carbs, you blocked another passage with dirt or assembled something incorrectly.

[kenny30436]

Ok, when I move the choke lever, the little arm that's attached to the, for lack of a better word, pin that I assume is the actual choke moves out. I didn't disconnect the throttle or choke cables from the carbs when I cleaned them for fear of not being able to get them put back together properly.
As far as procedure: yanked the carbs out amidst much wailing and gnashing of teeth, plus a ripped off fingernail and I managed to stab myself with a screwdriver.
Then I pulled the little cover off the bottom, made sure not to damage the o-rings (which I later replaced anyway, just to be safe), all while managing to just about strip one of the screws that fit into the little cover.
Next I pulled the little blue things out and hosed them off with GUNK cleaner. Least I think it was GUNK, I could be remembering teh name wrong and I'm too lazy to go figure out where I put the can, suffice to say its an aerosol cleaner with a straw attachment.
I then removed the jets themselves, filled a little bowl with the cleaner and let them soak a while. Took a little wire brush, scrubbed the snot out of them and ran one of the wires through the tiny little holes until I could blow through them without any restriction.
I then reversed the process and put everything back together again and only managed to stab myself once with the screwdriver, though I must also say that my wife kicked me in the shins for forgetting to wash my hands before I gave her a hug and got grease all over her blouse.
As far as a fuel petcock, could you use a less technical term? Like "the little round widget that hooks onto the throttle cable?" Like I said, I'm not too terribly mechanically inclined but I am trying to learn.
The bike starts and runs, it just doesn't start easily on cooler days. Today it's in the mid 60's and it started without issue, last night in the mid 50's it didn't.
My buddy says the "choke plunger" may be dirty or some such? Though I have no idea what that looks like, all things told, I assume that's the little "pin" I referred to earlier.

[eaglerider]

OK...after making sure of the carb stuff......when was the last time the valves were adjusted? cold, hard to start, also is an indicator that the valves are tightening up and not allowing proper fuel in aqnd exhaust out. These engines require a good valve adjustment approximately every 5,000 miles....sounds like this could very well be a good part of your starting problem.

[Jet⚡Black]

Woot a 2013 valve change from Eagle! The same thing crossed my mind, but that's your thunder my friend ;D I hope things have been going well for you...winter seems to get pretty dead around here.

[kenny30436]

Sorry that it's taken me this long to respond back, been a bit busy with work and such.

This valve adjustment thing. Is there somewhere I can go to look for a how-to-do-it type instructional set? What tools (best guess) would I need to do such? And best question of all...how difficult is it to do?

Or, is this one of those things where I should just take it down to the local mechanic and pay his extortionate fees?

[eaglerider]

Not hard....there's several posts with "how tos" here on the forum, along with warnings of a couple of things to watch for and be carefull of. Also, on our parent website, in the left sidebar, there is a good set of instructions. Good flat blade screwdriver, 10mm wrench, and good set of metric feeler gauges is all that is needed, other than the tools and time to remove the valve cover. Just take your time, watch what u are doing, double check adjustments before replacing the valve cover and other parts.

[Blaine]

This link will help you:
www.websxtreme.net/ebook/
I will add that you need to be careful not to drop valve cover dowels & tach drive when you life the valve cover.I glued the dowels in to the top of the head so as not need to worry about them again.Also when you remove the tach cable,a small piece of vacuum tubing pushed over the tip of the tach drive will prevent it from falling into the engine.You only need basic hand tools a a set of metric feeler gauges.The first time you do this can be seem to be a little overwhelming,but just take your time & label wiring & you will be fine.The hardest part is all the disassambly to get the valves.
Also on another note,it is much less confusing to disregard the timing marks & adjust the valves by placing the nose of the cam 180 degrees away from the valve stem ( valves completely closed) & than you can adjust that side & do the same for opposite side.Than rotate engine a couple of times & recheck before reassembly.


Here is another link from the "Vulcan forums" It has step by step pics that will help.There are a few things that are different such as no tach & speedo on the tank.But the pics will give you a better understanding of the steps involved.
www.vulcanforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2609


.

[BenInPA]

Hey blaine, what are these cover dowels your talking about? Are they just metal dowels to help you line the cover up? I think I'm gonna attempt to adjust my valves. I'm gonna have the coolant drained out of the bike anyway. Might as well do everything that I need drain the coolant for while I have it drained! It seems pretty straight forward and the links you provided have some nice pictures. Next year I think I may attemp cleaning the carbs!!

[Blaine]

Yes they help line up the valve cover.But their real reason is a air passage for the PAIR system that most of us get rid of anyway.

[remat457]

If I was able to do the valve adjustment you know it is pretty easy
Night and day difference too, my bike had about 7K on it. Most of the work is getting the valve covers off. The dowels are annoying, they are not retained by anything and just fall out...

[Blaine]

Mar 16, 2013 21:46:59 GMT -6 remat457 said:

Night and day difference too, my bike had about 7K on it. Most of the work is getting the valve covers off. The dowels are annoying, they are not retained by anything and just fall out...

I glued mine into the head so you don't need to worry about them next valve adjustment.