|
|
Post by pinerider48 on Jan 10, 2013 20:30:25 GMT -6
Hello I am new to the forum. I am working on a 1985 454 LTD. The bike has sat for a time uncared for. The carbs have been removed and cleaned, oil and coolant changed. I tried to charge the battery that it came with but it does not have enough cranking power. I jumped the bike when the carbs and plugs were removed and it has spark and compression. Picking up a battery tomorrow. My question is about the a switch under the gas tank its part number is 16126 air switch. The rubber tubes that connect to the valve cover and switch part number (92059c rubber tubes) one of the tubes is just shot out.
Can I cap both sides on the air switch and valve covers where these tubes connect with 5/8 caps leaving my smaller hose connected to the right side carb and other hoses connected stock?
Just looking see how she runs until I can get replacement tubes.
|
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jan 10, 2013 21:39:52 GMT -6
Welcome.Yes,you can.You can eliminate it,& cap the vacuum hose to the right carb.You only need vacuum from the left carb to the petcock.The Canadian models came from the factory with none of it.There are block off plates you can buy for the valve cover so you can eliminate everything.Makes it alot cleaner & much easier to do a valve adjustment.   |
|
|
|
Post by pinerider48 on Jan 10, 2013 23:04:06 GMT -6
thank's
|
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jan 10, 2013 23:13:00 GMT -6
|
|
|
|
Post by blackhunter on Jan 12, 2013 10:50:15 GMT -6
Hey there guys, sorry I've been off the forum for so long. Was a member several years ago, but crawled under a rock and hid from the world for a while!!!!LOL. Actually, been back at college having a go at another career.....Question regarding the emission junk removal....I removed/blocked off the pertinent parts, and t'd the right carb vacuum into the left carb/petcock line, and now the bike runs not so great. It has a nice growl, but no pep when accelerating, and it bogs down around 50-60mph. I had rebuilt the carb twice in a month (after first rebuild, bike sat a month, and the ethenol gummed up the jets due to no stabilizer) synced when warmed up, and set the idle air mixtures at 1 1/2 turns out (seems to run best at that setting here in Florida). Should I not attach the right carb to the left and cap it off instead? I should point out that I did this mod to my dad's vulcan 800 single carb, and it works great.....any suggestions? Sorry for the post hijack, I couldn't figure out how to post my own!!
|
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jan 12, 2013 15:18:48 GMT -6
Welcome back!! Either "T"ed together or right carb blocked off will make no difference as long as you have no vacuum leaks.Make sure your diaphrams are not leaking.(top covers pinching diaphram) & make sure that the vent tube (clear tube on top "T" is open & not kinked. |
|
|
|
Post by Jet⚡Black on Jan 12, 2013 16:46:50 GMT -6
You might need a larger main jet; but it sounds like you need to shim the needle, since your mid range is bogging...but it very well may be float height...I don't know your RPM or throttle position but in mid range operation; one of those two will be the culprit. Usually when carburetor tuning, you want to start with main jet, then needle height, then float level, then Pilot jet settings...this scheme works from full throttle backwards down to the idle circuit. Hoping around the order; isn't suggested unless you can completely recognize which of those is causing the issue...needle or float height...RPM is a good gauge to help determine what it needs combined with throttle position. For more detailed information... ltd454.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=has&action=display&thread=3555 |
|
|
|
Post by blackhunter on Jan 12, 2013 18:43:48 GMT -6
Thanks! Well, the loss of "get up and go" or throttle response, is from the beginning, accelerating from 1st thru 6th gear. In 6th, and at 50mph, rpms are at @5k. From there, it is an uphill battle, with bike basically sputtering. If there is any type of incline (Florida is mostly flat) then forget about maintaining speed.  Looks like yet another rebuild to check the jets.....Oh yeah, as far as the diaphrams, I took them off the first time I rebuilt the carbs, and the bike ran great, but when I did the second rebuild, I only cleaned out the bottom end of the carbs--all gunked up with ethanol slime. |
|
|
|
Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Jan 12, 2013 18:47:23 GMT -6
Hey there guys, sorry I've been off the forum for so long. Was a member several years ago, but crawled under a rock and hid from the world for a while!!!!LOL. Actually, been back at college having a go at another career.....Question regarding the emission junk removal....I removed/blocked off the pertinent parts, and t'd the right carb vacuum into the left carb/petcock line, and now the bike runs not so great. It has a nice growl, but no pep when accelerating, and it bogs down around 50-60mph. I had rebuilt the carb twice in a month (after first rebuild, bike sat a month, and the ethenol gummed up the jets due to no stabilizer) synced when warmed up, and set the idle air mixtures at 1 1/2 turns out (seems to run best at that setting here in Florida). Should I not attach the right carb to the left and cap it off instead? I should point out that I did this mod to my dad's vulcan 800 single carb, and it works great.....any suggestions? Sorry for the post hijack, I couldn't figure out how to post my own!! The removal of the "emissions" equipment (air injection system) in of itself should not have any negative affect on performance. However when I did the removal myself, I: - Removed valve and associated hoses
- Blocked off vacuum nipple on right carb
- Blocked off ports in valve cover
What I didn't do right away, because I was waiting for a ~1" rubber plug, was to block off the hole left in the airbox from the hose that ran to the vacuum operated valve for the air injection system. Immediately I noticed the bike was more difficult to start and ran very lean. Once I had the plug in place, everything was back to normal (minus the popping on decelerating, which went away due to the removal of the air injection system). |
|
|
|
Post by blackhunter on Jan 12, 2013 18:47:49 GMT -6
With this mod (I may go back and re-install the emissions stuff and check how it runs) do you usually need to rejet the carbs? I thought about doing the airbox mod, but hate to ruin a perfectly good airbox by cutting it up..
|
|
|
|
Post by blackhunter on Jan 12, 2013 18:57:30 GMT -6
I have the crankcase vent tube still in place into the airbox, but I blocked off the "hole" by using monster tape, seems to be holding well... I also did the following:
1. T'd the right carb vacuum line into the left, and connected
both to the petcock,
2. Cut out rubberized gasket material to put under the
plates, then for good measure used bypass plugs to plug
the tubes,
3. After cleaning the carbs the second time and bench
synching them and getting the idle mixture screw set to
1 1/2 turns out, installed and had the bike running until
warmed up. Then I proceeded to adjust the idle speed
until it idled at 1200rpms....
|
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jan 12, 2013 20:42:15 GMT -6
With this mod (I may go back and re-install the emissions stuff and check how it runs) do you usually need to rejet the carbs? I thought about doing the airbox mod, but hate to ruin a perfectly good airbox by cutting it up.. You do not need to rejet just because you removed the emissions.You should only need to rejet,shim the needle if you change to pod filters. |
|
|
|
Post by pinerider48 on Jan 13, 2013 19:29:10 GMT -6
Thanks for now I have done things the way you said but when I get it running better I will order the kit and make life a lot easier getting to plugs and valve adjust. Just got it fired up about a 1/2 hour ago hard starting I have no exhaust flow from left exhaust dont know if my exhaust is clogged on that side or a exhaust valve is sticking. Both spark plugs are firing. Bike had a lot of acorns in the air filters and all over. |
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jan 13, 2013 19:54:27 GMT -6
Just got it fired up about a 1/2 hour ago hard starting I have no exhaust flow from left exhaust dont know if my exhaust is clogged on that side or a exhaust valve is sticking. Both spark plugs are firing. Bike had a lot of acorns in the air filters and all over. Make sure that the cylinder not firing is getting fuel.More times than not a cylinder not firing or not firing properly can be traced to a fuel/intake problem. |
|
|
|
Post by hounddog22642 on Jun 4, 2020 17:28:34 GMT -6
I have a question:
Will the lamponedesign.com part work on the 454?
They are listing it as fitting the ex500 and ninja 500.
I've plugged everything with rubber plugs but the block off plates would look much neater.
Thank you
|
|
pya977
Junior Member
Posts: 300
|
Post by pya977 on Jun 5, 2020 1:42:54 GMT -6
yes or better still make your own
|
|
|
|
Post by Blaine on Jun 5, 2020 5:24:52 GMT -6
yes or better still make your own yes they wil....Same basic engine. |
|
|
|
Post by hounddog22642 on Jun 6, 2020 9:12:19 GMT -6
yes or better still make your own I would like to make my own but I am all thumbs and have no mechanically ability. Well, I am good at taking things apart and once I put them back together, I have parts left other. I ordered them from lamponedesign. |
|
|
|
Post by hounddog22642 on Jun 6, 2020 9:13:15 GMT -6
yes or better still make your own yes they wil....Same basic engine. Blaine, I ordered them. Thank you'll |
|
Looks like yet another rebuild to check the jets.....Oh yeah, as far as the diaphrams, I took them off the first time I rebuilt the carbs, and the bike ran great, but when I did the second rebuild, I only cleaned out the bottom end of the carbs--all gunked up with ethanol slime.
