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Post by remat457 on Apr 6, 2013 0:27:32 GMT -6
Looks like the side tapping has stopped working on my tach. Anybody successfully take one apart and get it working again? My goodness-replacement tachs are spendy!
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 6, 2013 17:03:40 GMT -6
Remat, there is a post here somewhere about the tach. I believe it is in the general forum here. A person in that post describes how to dis-assemble and re-assemble the tach.
Sent from my DROID4 using proboards
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Post by BenInPA on Apr 6, 2013 17:07:32 GMT -6
Remat, it is in general forum but the topic is speedometer issues. He describes the dis-assembly and re-assembly of the speedo. The tach I would think would be similiar. Good luck.
Sent from my DROID4 using proboards
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Post by eaglerider on Apr 6, 2013 20:59:20 GMT -6
 Before u start screwing up the gauge.....check the cable...did it break, or come unscrewed from either end? 
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Post by remat457 on Apr 12, 2013 0:57:26 GMT -6
hmm...I don't know why I don't ever check the simple things first!
Pulled the cable from the top of the valve cover and it definitely is broken. Going to order it and a speedo cable.
Are the aftermarket cables ok? I see MotionPro on ebay (and some that don't list a brand) that are very affordable (like $14 shipped). These are not exactly mission critical parts, but they are constantly in motion, so I thought I would ask.
Thanks guys!
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Post by zekkfett on Apr 12, 2013 1:47:11 GMT -6
That's what I run. Speedo & Tach. Speedo cable works great. However; I'm fighting an oil leak out of the tach cable though. Doesn't seal well at the valve cover. Not sure if it's a cable quality issue though. Might pull the new core out, give the old cable sheath a thorough cleaning and put the new core in the old sheath. See if that fixes it. |
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Post by Blaine on Apr 12, 2013 5:57:20 GMT -6
I always use Motion-Pro cables.  |
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Post by remat457 on Apr 13, 2013 19:51:32 GMT -6
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Apr 13, 2013 20:00:02 GMT -6
That's what I run. Speedo & Tach. Speedo cable works great. However; I'm fighting an oil leak out of the tach cable though. Doesn't seal well at the valve cover. Not sure if it's a cable quality issue though. Might pull the new core out, give the old cable sheath a thorough cleaning and put the new core in the old sheath. See if that fixes it. An oil leak at the tach cable connection (valve cover) is likely the oil seal for the tach drive pin (the small pin/shaft that gets lost when you remove the valve cover and it drives the tach cable). Mine started leaking big time, I replaced the seal and no leaks. |
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Post by zekkfett on Apr 13, 2013 20:48:51 GMT -6
That's what I run. Speedo & Tach. Speedo cable works great. However; I'm fighting an oil leak out of the tach cable though. Doesn't seal well at the valve cover. Not sure if it's a cable quality issue though. Might pull the new core out, give the old cable sheath a thorough cleaning and put the new core in the old sheath. See if that fixes it. An oil leak at the tach cable connection (valve cover) is likely the oil seal for the tach drive pin (the small pin/shaft that gets lost when you remove the valve cover and it drives the tach cable). Mine started leaking big time, I replaced the seal and no leaks. Right on, did not know that. I'll look into it. Seems though that it started when I changed cables. I think it's that the threaded cap on the valve cover side is 2mm shorter than stock. Won't tighten down as much..... But I will def look into that seal. Thanks man! Sent from my LG-LG855 using ProBoards |
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Post by Blaine on Apr 13, 2013 20:57:47 GMT -6
Yep it is.  |
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Apr 14, 2013 8:06:04 GMT -6
An oil leak at the tach cable connection (valve cover) is likely the oil seal for the tach drive pin (the small pin/shaft that gets lost when you remove the valve cover and it drives the tach cable). Mine started leaking big time, I replaced the seal and no leaks. Right on, did not know that. I'll look into it. Seems though that it started when I changed cables. I think it's that the threaded cap on the valve cover side is 2mm shorter than stock. Won't tighten down as much..... But I will def look into that seal. Thanks man! Sent from my LG-LG855 using ProBoards I mean, where else would the oil be coming from? Inside the cable? Cables should be lubricated, but not "filled" with oil. |
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Post by zekkfett on Apr 14, 2013 8:42:42 GMT -6
Right on, did not know that. I'll look into it. Seems though that it started when I changed cables. I think it's that the threaded cap on the valve cover side is 2mm shorter than stock. Won't tighten down as much..... But I will def look into that seal. Thanks man! Sent from my LG-LG855 using ProBoards I mean, where else would the oil be coming from? Inside the cable? Cables should be lubricated, but not "filled" with oil. The end that goes in the valve cover, is supposed to be flared, and that flare is supposed to cover the entire top of the tech drive fitting. The flare on my cable isn't that great, and as I said, the cap on the new cable is shorter; you can't tighten it down as much as the stock cable. Sent from my LG-LG855 using ProBoards |
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Post by remat457 on Apr 14, 2013 13:42:31 GMT -6
Yep it is. Thanks! Ordering right now BTW, for anyone looking for replacement MotionPro cables these guys: www.powersportsuperstore.com have the tach for $5.45 Got the speedo and tach cables both shipped for $26! |
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Post by zekkfett on Apr 14, 2013 18:25:19 GMT -6
The end that goes in the valve cover, is supposed to be flared, and that flare is supposed to cover the entire top of the tech drive fitting. The flare on my cable isn't that great, and as I said, the cap on the new cable is shorter; you can't tighten it down as much as the stock cable. Sent from my LG-LG855 using ProBoards Finally got a good set of curved channel-locks on it, got it tightened about a quarter turn, and after 50 miles today, no more leak. |
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Post by remat457 on Apr 20, 2013 11:34:32 GMT -6
BTW, for anyone looking for replacement MotionPro cables these guys: www.powersportsuperstore.com have the tach cable for $5.45 Got the speedo and tach cables both shipped for $26! Just as a follow up, I got the tach cable and put it in (only took about 1 min!) and it works again. YAY! Haven't replaced the speedo cable yet. Also that vendor was really good. |
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Post by zekkfett on May 3, 2013 0:51:04 GMT -6
That's what I run. Speedo & Tach. Speedo cable works great. However; I'm fighting an oil leak out of the tach cable though. Doesn't seal well at the valve cover. Not sure if it's a cable quality issue though. Might pull the new core out, give the old cable sheath a thorough cleaning and put the new core in the old sheath. See if that fixes it. An oil leak at the tach cable connection (valve cover) is likely the oil seal for the tach drive pin (the small pin/shaft that gets lost when you remove the valve cover and it drives the tach cable). Mine started leaking big time, I replaced the seal and no leaks. Part # 92049 is what you're referring to? |
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Post by zekkfett on May 7, 2013 19:35:05 GMT -6
Follow-up:
Ordered the tach drive oil seal Saturday afternoon from eBay, and it showed up at my house on Monday morning.... NICE!! ;D ;D
Finally got the chance to get it installed today, and let me tell you, getting the old one out is a PITA! Had to pick all the rubber out, and then deal with the steel ring that is inside the seal itself. Finally had to find a very large bolt and thread it into the ring, and pop it loose with a hammer. Only took about 10 minutes... but still, a pain if you don't have access to the right tools. The tach drive pin didn't want to come out; but once I got it out, it was a lil pitted, so I polished it up with some 2500 grit sandpaper, so it wouldn't eat up the new seal. Only put a couple miles on afterwards, I was raining and I wasn't suited up for that. Seems so far like there is no leak. Hopefully I'm done with this tach oil leak.... *Crosses fingers*
Kawi Part # Reference: 92049 or 92050-075 (newer better style seal)
Thanks goes out to bmwpowere36m3 Thank you brother! I usually only deal with newer Electronic tachs, and all the cable tached bikes I've had before never had any leaks or cable issues.
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Post by BenInPA on Jun 8, 2013 23:29:26 GMT -6
I am waiting on a new tach cable to arrive in the mail. I should be able to just slide the new cable into the old sheath correct? The way the cable routes I have to remove the gas tank and front shroud to remove the whole cable. I want to remove the broken inside cable and leave the sheath so I can put the tank and seat back on so I can ride. I should be able to just lube and slide the new cable into the sheath right? I got my heel/toe shifter welded and will post a pic in a day or two. Sent from my Droid 4 using Proboards Mobile App. ;D |
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Post by eaglerider on Jun 9, 2013 4:21:26 GMT -6
U can, but I would not advise it. The "old" one could have some crud in it...the cables do attract moisture, that's why they look rusty when you pull the inner cable out to lube it every so often (at least once a year). Its worth the extra time it takes to replace the drive cable properly......u don't normally use a dirty glass to put clean water in, do you??   |
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Post by zekkfett on Jun 9, 2013 9:05:54 GMT -6
I am waiting on a new tach cable to arrive in the mail. I should be able to just slide the new cable into the old sheath correct? The way the cable routes I have to remove the gas tank and front shroud to remove the whole cable. I want to remove the broken inside cable and leave the sheath so I can put the tank and seat back on so I can ride. I should be able to just lube and slide the new cable into the sheath right? I got my heel/toe shifter welded and will post a pic in a day or two. Sent from my Droid 4 using Proboards Mobile App. ;D I'm with Eagle on this one. Use the entire new cable, the routing is nothing hard. |
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Post by nateshelton on Mar 22, 2021 17:14:38 GMT -6
Can some one show me what the tach drive pin looks like?
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