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Post by gaillarry on Sept 25, 2013 15:03:05 GMT -6
Picked up an 86 in good condition, been sitting for awhile. Bike bogged down on acceleration and was leaking fuel.
Cleaned the carbs, and replaced the pilot jets, fuel lines and one carb diaphragm.
Took the bike for a ride and it ran great - lots of power, no hesitation and no fuel leaks but only below 50 mph.
Bike sat for 8 hours before I drove it again and then it begins to bog down! If I give it full choke I do get some power back, but not as good. At idle the bike runs fine, but under a load it bogs down. What would cause it to bog at high speed.?
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Post by zekkfett on Sept 25, 2013 15:21:36 GMT -6
Are you making sure the bike is properly warmed up before you take off? 5-10 minutes of warming up? If the engine AND carbs are not properly warmed up, your fuel is not going to properly atomize, which will lead to the hesitation.
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Post by eaglerider on Sept 26, 2013 5:36:56 GMT -6
Check carb float levels.
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Post by gaillarry on Sept 26, 2013 8:26:37 GMT -6
Just took it for a ride again. Warmed up the bike for 5 minutes, got up to 6,000 rpm and it began to bog for a minute or two, then ran fine, then bogged again!!!
I'll pull the carbs and check the float levels.
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Post by eaglerider on Sept 26, 2013 10:50:36 GMT -6
OK, here goes..... When was valve adjustment last done?? Valve adjustment is very important on these engines...not saying that some carb problems don't exist, but these engines need a good valve check/adjustment about every 5,000 miles.
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Post by gaillarry on Sept 26, 2013 10:52:29 GMT -6
Thanks for the info, I'll do a valve adjustment next.
I have the manual but are there any tips on doing the valves?
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Post by eaglerider on Sept 26, 2013 14:00:41 GMT -6
The manual gets too technical for lot of members, by going into TDC, etc.......here is a very simple way, which most of us use: After getting the valve cover off, and ready to adjust, turn the engine thru, until the cam lobes for the valve being adjusted are pointed totally opposite of the rocker...this insures that the valve is 100% closed...adjust that valve, using the higher value given for that valve.......continue doing this for each valve. Go thru and re-check each valve before replacing the valve cover and re-assembly, to insure the adjustments are right. Be sure to use the proper feeler gauges.....Metric.
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gonzo
Junior Member
For the 1st time ever I don't like the snow
Posts: 215
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Post by gonzo on Sept 28, 2013 6:13:05 GMT -6
Is there a need to use 2 feeler gagues at once. Just something I've read online.
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Post by eaglerider on Sept 28, 2013 15:38:31 GMT -6
Just for different settings for intake and exhaust, but not at the same time. Some might use next size up after setting, to make sure not too wide a gap, but not needed, if you adjust right, and double check.
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Post by Blaine on Sept 28, 2013 17:28:53 GMT -6
Is there a need to use 2 feeler gagues at once. Just something I've read online. It's more accurate,but not necessary.Just go slow & double check your work.
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gonzo
Junior Member
For the 1st time ever I don't like the snow
Posts: 215
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Post by gonzo on Sept 30, 2013 5:43:37 GMT -6
Is there a need to use 2 feeler gagues at once. Just something I've read online. It's more accurate,but not necessary.Just go slow & double check your work. I thought so. Thanks Blaine :-)
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lamestlame
Junior Member
So I am recovering from an accident I had on my ninja. More bonding time with my trusty ol 454 ;)
Posts: 220
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Post by lamestlame on Oct 16, 2013 8:49:27 GMT -6
Something I found when riding is that if you bog down shift down it will usually help you so that the bike does not shut down only thing is I don't know if it is good for the bike.
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Post by gaillarry on Nov 7, 2013 8:14:04 GMT -6
Just an update. Found the vent line from the carbs was plugged with dirt, Replaced the line and it runs good now - no bogging.
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