Post by gdeangel on Aug 16, 2014 23:52:04 GMT -6
I know there are other threads with same problem, but after reading them I still have a few questions hopefully folks here can help with.
First the problem - after cranking a few times, gas starts gushing out of the vent overflow tube. At least I think that's what it's called - the gas is gushing out the clear tub that I have connected from the upper crossover tube to under the bike. It also seems to be spraying back out into the air box.
My hose routing is (1) hose from L vac port to small port petcock (fuel pump), (2) hose from R vac port to emissions thingy, (3) fuel line from lower crossover tube up to large port on petcock (gas), and (4) line from upper crossover tube to under the bike... is that correct?
Now I was pretty careful to measure the float heights at exactly the point they make contact with spring on the float needles. I set them at 17.7 mm. Originally it was around 16.5 on one side, and something like 23 on the other, which side had no gas in the bowl when I started the job and a "stuck" spring on the float needle... The rubber on the tips of the float needles looked fine.
Over at Kawasakimotorcycle.org, I came across this:
Focusing in on the float level, when I pulled the carb, the float needles were in vastly different states of "varnish", and the float heights were also set very differently. But the bike ran, and I never saw a drop of gas overflow from the carbs. It just was next-to impossible to start when not run for a few days without a blast of carb cleaner to the air intake. Is it possible this setup of different L and R float heights was deliberate? I think I may end up replacing the float needles... found some online that are selling for about $10 new.
I also did clean the tank, which was a long and sordid affair, but in the end it might have still been possible that some tiny rust particle got through the petcock screens and is compromising the needle seat. And as far as the floats, I noticed when I first disassembled the carb that one looked like it had some gas in it, but I figured since the bike wasn't flooding then, that whatever the situation, it was a slow, minor issue that didn't affect the pressure on the needle enough to mess things up - plus new floats aren't quite as easy to come by as float needles!
So now the practical question - how the heck to get the 4 bowl screws off without pulling the carb again!?
First the problem - after cranking a few times, gas starts gushing out of the vent overflow tube. At least I think that's what it's called - the gas is gushing out the clear tub that I have connected from the upper crossover tube to under the bike. It also seems to be spraying back out into the air box.
My hose routing is (1) hose from L vac port to small port petcock (fuel pump), (2) hose from R vac port to emissions thingy, (3) fuel line from lower crossover tube up to large port on petcock (gas), and (4) line from upper crossover tube to under the bike... is that correct?
Now I was pretty careful to measure the float heights at exactly the point they make contact with spring on the float needles. I set them at 17.7 mm. Originally it was around 16.5 on one side, and something like 23 on the other, which side had no gas in the bowl when I started the job and a "stuck" spring on the float needle... The rubber on the tips of the float needles looked fine.
Over at Kawasakimotorcycle.org, I came across this:
If fuel is coming out of the overflow hoses than either the float is unable to stop the fuel flow due to debris as described by the OP or the float level is incorrect and allowing the bowl to overfill. A third possibility is a bad float, but that is rare
Focusing in on the float level, when I pulled the carb, the float needles were in vastly different states of "varnish", and the float heights were also set very differently. But the bike ran, and I never saw a drop of gas overflow from the carbs. It just was next-to impossible to start when not run for a few days without a blast of carb cleaner to the air intake. Is it possible this setup of different L and R float heights was deliberate? I think I may end up replacing the float needles... found some online that are selling for about $10 new.
I also did clean the tank, which was a long and sordid affair, but in the end it might have still been possible that some tiny rust particle got through the petcock screens and is compromising the needle seat. And as far as the floats, I noticed when I first disassembled the carb that one looked like it had some gas in it, but I figured since the bike wasn't flooding then, that whatever the situation, it was a slow, minor issue that didn't affect the pressure on the needle enough to mess things up - plus new floats aren't quite as easy to come by as float needles!
So now the practical question - how the heck to get the 4 bowl screws off without pulling the carb again!?