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Post by dagothbrian on Aug 2, 2015 17:06:04 GMT -6
Hello. Long time lurker and learned a lot of useful things for my own '87 450, but now I need my own help for something I couldn't find through the search. I take my bike on the highway, and start to lose power. Switch to reserve, fill the tank, and notice that the engine sort of has a muffled muted sound, almost resembling a lawnmower, but would sometimes sound normal and sharper. It kept running, but hesitated in the 3.5-5k RPM range. I figure it might be a float level or idle screw problem. I also adjust the valves, clean the carbs, remove the CA emissions stuff, and attach pod filters to the carb and crank case.
So, the most important problem: After lowering the float level and adjusting the idle screws (and also attaching the new filters) I wouldn't know if the RPM bogging is still there, because the bike starts dying at 3k RPM. It doesn't turn off completely, but keeps barely puffing along. Once I roll off the throttle, the power does actually return, but never above 3k. Do the needles have to be adjusted after installing these filters? They weren't shimmed before. Also, I'm not sure if it's related, but there is a coolant leak from the hole between the gills on the left side of the engine.
Finally, a general question: Is it normal to stall out if I don't throttle up around 3k before switching from neutral to first?
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Post by Blaine on Aug 2, 2015 21:21:42 GMT -6
Hello. Long time lurker and learned a lot of useful things for my own '87 450, but now I need my own help for something I couldn't find through the search. I take my bike on the highway, and start to lose power. Switch to reserve, fill the tank, and notice that the engine sort of has a muffled muted sound, almost resembling a lawnmower, but would sometimes sound normal and sharper. It kept running, but hesitated in the 3.5-5k RPM range. I figure it might be a float level or idle screw problem. I also adjust the valves, clean the carbs, remove the CA emissions stuff, and attach pod filters to the carb and crank case. So, the most important problem: After lowering the float level and adjusting the idle screws (and also attaching the new filters) I wouldn't know if the RPM bogging is still there, because the bike starts dying at 3k RPM. It doesn't turn off completely, but keeps barely puffing along. Once I roll off the throttle, the power does actually return, but never above 3k. Do the needles have to be adjusted after installing these filters? They weren't shimmed before. Also, I'm not sure if it's related, but there is a coolant leak from the hole between the gills on the left side of the engine. Finally, a general question: Is it normal to stall out if I don't throttle up around 3k before switching from neutral to first? Not normal....You need to shim your needles.  |
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Post by dagothbrian on Aug 3, 2015 18:44:21 GMT -6
Today I swapped the main jets with 135s and couldn't rev above 2.5k. So I shimmed each needle with 7 washers and was able to push it up to around 4k before failure and eliminate the stalling into first gear. The left carb also started leaking through the deeper hole on the suction side (the main jet hole?), but I suspect I might have just left the petcock on PRI for too long. Will adding even more washers be enough, or should I try cutting the springs like I've seen you mention, Blaine? Thanks for your help, by the way.
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Post by Blaine on Aug 3, 2015 19:27:16 GMT -6
Today I swapped the main jets with 135s and couldn't rev above 2.5k. So I shimmed each needle with 7 washers and was able to push it up to around 4k before failure and eliminate the stalling into first gear. The left carb also started leaking through the deeper hole on the suction side (the main jet hole?), but I suspect I might have just left the petcock on PRI for too long. Will adding even more washers be enough, or should I try cutting the springs like I've seen you mention, Blaine? Thanks for your help, by the way. Shouldn't need 7 washers,Something seems off.....Are the slides moving freely & can you hear the vaacuum when you lift them by hand? |
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Post by dagothbrian on Aug 3, 2015 20:33:24 GMT -6
The slides lift up smoothly, and make a whistling type of sound when pushed up.
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Post by Blaine on Aug 3, 2015 21:26:37 GMT -6
The slides lift up smoothly, and make a whistling type of sound when pushed up. You can try removing the springs before cutting & see if that helps.....Just don't leave them out as the slides can stick wide open.If evertthing is right you should have very fast response. |
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Post by dagothbrian on Aug 4, 2015 8:13:51 GMT -6
After removing the springs, the throttle cut out at around 3.5k instead of 4k like it had before. Could the float level being too low have any effect on this?
*UPDATE: After a helluva lot of tinkering, raising the floats, and placing six washers on each needle, the battle is won. Loving the response from the new 135s, too. But now there's an overheating problem, and the fan won't kick on. It was only a matter of time, I suppose. Seems like small potatoes after surviving the carburetors...
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Post by mik3 on Aug 6, 2015 23:58:57 GMT -6
Mine ran pretty warm on 135's. I just did a huge tuning on my bike. Was considering trying the pods again since i gt new carb springs and have a fresh valve job and fluids.
Your fan not coming on at all is another issue. Recheck all your cables, especially in the harness connections under the seat, as well as the cable outlets of your main harness running along the frame toward the front.
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Post by dagothbrian on Aug 8, 2015 5:00:15 GMT -6
Yeah, turns out it was all because I forgot to reconnect the wire going from the thermostat to radiator after my valve adjustment...Not my proudest moment, that. But the pods are amazing, take up so much less space, and make the carbs a helluva lot easier to pull.
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