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Post by mys on Oct 29, 2015 0:59:59 GMT -6
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Post by knoizy on Oct 29, 2015 13:53:50 GMT -6
Where exactly is the fuel leaking from? There's a drain screw on the underside of the each carb that will leak fuel all day if not screwed in. After that if a float bowl is sticking the fuel will slowly overflow, sometimes back out into the airbox if left on side stand. The choke should remain closed by a spring no matter if the cable is attached and I doubt that has any connection to the leak. Your fuel comes out of the tank through the petcock and down into the carbs, that's three different fittings and hoses it could leak from already and if its dripping down a hose you might find what looks like a leaky fitting but is actually wet from a leak further up the chain. When you say the carbs were cleaned do you mean a quick spray of cleaner or fully stripped down and re-assembled?
Get the workshop manual and check your tool supply - you don't need every single tool it recommends but some of them are critical. Then I would commit to removing the exhausts and rear wheel so you can access the rest of the bike while you clean those parts up on the bench. With exhausts and wheel out of the way you can begin a decent clean up on the engine and frame, flush the coolant system, fit new exhaust gaskets and check valve clearances. With all that done and lets say we throw in a carb sync and compression test you should then have a smoothly running engine, at least while idling in neutral. Remove the pulley cover and front pulley then clean out all the crud from both, apply some thick grease to the pulley splines and re-assemble. In a very basic way that is the front end of the bike overhauled, there might be many other issues but that would be my bare minimum list of items to check.
Miracles can be worked on rust with fine steel wool and polish, screws and fittings can be wire-brushed or bathed in phosphoric acid (will be free from rust but lose their shine). You will need a supply of cleaning agents (WD40 & brake cleaner), grease (normal & hi-temp), O-rings, clips, abrasives, threadlock, frame paint and an air compressor is pretty much essential IMHO. Check out various youtube tutorials for carb rebuilds and chrome treatments and remember you can do incredible damage with the wrong tool or too heavy a hand. Might seem a long list but so long as your motor is healthy the rest is enjoyable work, keep your workspace tidy and idiot-proof with magnetic bowls and double check all screws/bolts that you refit. I have a truly embarrassing list of parts that have fallen off bikes after I was too keen to get out of the garage and test them, good luck!
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Post by mys on Oct 30, 2015 8:33:43 GMT -6
knoizy...Ok thanks, will check exactly and just leave a message here for you... Thanks again for your help
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Post by mys on Nov 4, 2015 12:02:51 GMT -6
knoizy Hi there! The leak is coming out of the carb by the right airfilter. I don't know if that's an overflow or what. I'm not clued up on it. Do I drain the fuel out of the carb?
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Post by knoizy on Nov 4, 2015 13:38:53 GMT -6
Sounds like a stuck float bowl - same as how a toilet cistern works your carb float is not floating back up to shut the fuel off so it keeps flowing in and overflows into the airbox. That's not a good thing but its also not really enough to prevent it starting or running, if the seafoam dislodged some crud which clogged the carb jets up then that would be a definite reason for not starting. That carb wants to be cleaned, check out the many youtubes on cleaning a twin carb.
Might be something else though - have you checked the spark on each plug? Remove plug, attach back to lead then hold tip of plug to metal engine casing, you should see a nice orderly series of blue sparks as you press the starter, definitely another reason for not starting.
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Post by mys on Nov 5, 2015 8:35:44 GMT -6
Ok thanks will do just that yeah. It does start up first time and runs nice. Not as nice as it should be running but I will sort out that carb asap. Thanks again, will let you know the outcome
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