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Post by gkdrummer on Oct 20, 2018 17:13:44 GMT -6
The Cooling fan doesnt turn on,the bike idles fine but it starts to over heat. the coolant resevoir Is full and is being used,but the bike still over heats.
We are about to test the Fan motor wires and the wires into the Harness,to see if its electrical. But does anyone have any idea besides that what it might be.
(Also im very new to this so im learning as I go,so if i ask for a little more specifics im sorry)
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Post by knoizy on Oct 20, 2018 18:58:09 GMT -6
The fan can be tested with 12v direct to the plug. After that you need to check the fan switch (27010) and the thermostat (49054) and while you are there the coolant sensor plug (92066). These tests are easy but need a multimeter, thermometer and pan of hot water and are described in more detail in the workshop manual. If you don't find a fault there then its time to check the radiator and water pump, sometimes there's more than one fault but I'm 99% sure its going to be one of the above. Btw don't let the bike even start to overheat if you can help it. |
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Post by gkdrummer on Oct 21, 2018 19:53:17 GMT -6
So I tested the fan,and that works fine,but I used a 12v tester and put it into the "pig tail" from the harness and we got nothing from that,is that normal?
Can you point me in direction of the workshop manual please!?
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Post by knoizy on Oct 22, 2018 6:54:53 GMT -6
Assuming the bike is OK the fan is only going to receive power once the fan switch reaches temperature, that's why I suggested removing it for testing. Overheating can do some serious damage to the engine and you don't want to chance it even once if you can help it. As you work through each test it will reveal the nature of the problem but don't assume there's only one fault.
There are dozens of manuals on ebay, I prefer the Kawasaki edition (blue or white) and there are PDFs of a manual circulating here, not sure which one but a PDF file is no substitute for the real thing as you often need multiple pages open in front of you.
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Post by gkdrummer on Oct 25, 2018 16:31:49 GMT -6
Assuming the bike is OK the fan is only going to receive power once the fan switch reaches temperature, that's why I suggested removing it for testing. Overheating can do some serious damage to the engine and you don't want to chance it even once if you can help it. As you work through each test it will reveal the nature of the problem but don't assume there's only one fault. There are dozens of manuals on ebay, I prefer the Kawasaki edition (blue or white) and there are PDFs of a manual circulating here, not sure which one but a PDF file is no substitute for the real thing as you often need multiple pages open in front of you. I rested the fan switch and thats what it was,right now all we did was snip the fan switch wires,and put them together and just connect the 2 wires together for the switch and just keep the fan constantly running (for now) But now the bike wont stay started,when i try to close the choke it starts to bog down. But if i ease on the throttle (and it changes up) sometimes itll rev up,but other times it bogs down. Im beyond stumped with this bike. |
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Post by knoizy on Oct 25, 2018 17:20:20 GMT -6
I don't know the results in practice but in theory leaving the fan hard-wired could prevent the engine from reaching operating temperature and there's a variable you don't want in your starting and running investigations!
Just seen your other post about engine bogging - some people get confused about the choke lever direction, a 454 often starts with little or no choke and is easily bogged down on full choke. The bogging on the choke makes sense if that's the case but if its also bogging with throttle once warm that's probably a carb issue. Seafoam might make a bad situation slightly less bad but don't believe the hype. Personally, I'd pull the tank and carbs out then clean and rebuild the carbs and check the fuel lines myself. Any youtube on twin 500 carb rebuild should explain and there's not much specific about these carbs but it is another job where you will need the manual. Carbs can be gunked up to the point of failure with layers of gum that no carb cleaner can touch. Some folk put a product in the tank and honestly think the job is done and fair enough that's what the label says but if there's even a slight running or starting problem on a second hand bike I'd say the full carb rebuild has to be done or it remains a dozen points of failure that you can never rule out. Plenty of info on here too about cleaning carbs.
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