Right cylinder troubles

[gandolf]

Hi,
 
 This bike is relatively new to me it's an 89, so trying to get it running right. The right cylinder is not firing again... 
First had no spark so did the coil swap and still dead so I moved on to the igniter. Found a used one, put it in yesterday and bang, bike fired right up on both cylinders.
I only ran it for a few minutes till it warmed up a bit. Restarted great also. Don't have the tank on just a very small bottle so didn't take it for a run.
Thinking problem solved! Today not so much... again right side not firing, still have spark though??? Using new NGK D8EA comes out wet? Spark doesn't seem any different than the left side. After a few minutes of running the igniter seems to have warmed up a bit (not hot) just warm. The igniter I bought is off a 93 Vulcan #21119-1219   
Little confused since if woke right up yesterday and when I return today no dice. Compression in both cylinders is about 140 and holding.
 
Do I need different possibly resister plugs DR8ES?
Do I need a different igniter? If so has anyone here tried the aftermarket ones coming out of Belgium? 
www.ebay.com/itm/CDI-ECU-Kawasaki-EN400-EN450LTD-EN454LTD-EN500-Vulcan-Blackbox-Ignitor-CD3504D/231137573353

Any thoughts?
Thanks

[gandolf]

Update..

 Got a chance to toy with bike again today and tried something different. Connected the bottle of fuel and let it fill, disconnected the bottle and drained a little out of the right cylinder carb. Bike fired right up and continued to run till the bowls ran low. Guessing I had two problems, bad igniter and sticking/dirty needle valve which is flooding that cylinder.

Another question, has anyone been able to remove/replace the fuel line without removing the carbs? Doesn't look very easy to me.


Making progress!

[eaglerider]

A little tight to do, but not that hard to change the fuel line with carbs installed, but is more difficult with the airbox installed.

[knoizy]

Have you cleaned the carbs since you got this bike?

[gandolf]

No not yet, been trying to get it running well enough to take a few test runs and make an overall assessment. Supposedly the previous owner did the carbs about a year ago. Having the igniter intermittently fail hasn't helped but now that's worked out I can move forward. Looks like I am going to have to remove carbs anyway to replace the fuel line so I might as well dive in!   

[knoizy]

Essential at least as part of the process of elimination here. Heat the rubber boots with a hair dryer they will push in to allow the carb body out, and by cleaning I mean a full rebuild, all interior surfaces cleaned, jets and holes blown through with air (or poked with thin wire if stubborn) and float height reset. Carb cleaner works to some degree but I've had carbs so gummed up it had no effect on the residue as that required careful scraping out with thinners or other solvents. You can also boil the parts in a mild acid usually lemon or vinegar I've had good results with that method although it can also produce a dull patina on the surface in case that bothers you. You can fit an inline fuel filter easy enough but there's not a lot of access as you mentioned, my filter is an inch or so above the carb fuel inlet so that has to be in place before the carb is put back and make a note of which way the choke lever operates, I've managed to get that wrong on occasion! 

[gandolf]

Thanks for the tips! Now to find the time.....