Does anybody know hot to split the Carbs apart

[andyuk454ltdbiker]

Looking at the carbs themselves it looks pretty easy as it is held together with screws, but i just want to make sure I get it right. Now I have issues with manuals which have loads of text and pictures that show nothing at all, or not what it is telling you to do, so I am asking you kind Ladies and Gentlemen if there is a video where somebody is actually splitting the two carbs. 

I think you guys know what I mean, separating the carbs?

If any of you know of a video that shows the CVK twin cars being clearly show how to split ready for cleaning ect. please can you post a link to it. I have a problem wit the fuel inlet which either has a crack in the side of the carb, which i cannot see when inspecting, or the plastic tube which goes to the fuel intake bar which connects both the carbs together has cracked and i have to replace it. Either way I have to split the carb to do so. I just want to make sure I do it right as I seem to be throwing good money away when it comes to my carbs.

Hope you guys can help, Thanks.

[andyuk454ltdbiker]

OK found a Video, wasn't a CVK carb but it gave the general idea and i have split my old carb. Hoping its just O-rings and not a crack

[knoizy]

The official kawasaki manual has an excellent section on carbs and I'm always confused by members here who won't spend £20 to guarantee they have the best chance of fixing (and not damaging) the 454. 

Any job like that needs a full carb clean and rebuild because there's a dozen potential fuel delivery problems you need to be sure about and its a lot of fiddly work to revisit. Before you start photo how the cables and hoses attach, mark the choke direction, heat the rubbers with a hair drier and they will gently yield to half way. Give yourself a large clean worktop and begin disassembly. Carb cleaner only works about half as well as people think, any gunk in the passages or jets might need manual removal. I expect fuel lines can be safely improvised if you need a repair so long as the material is safe for petrol use. I'd suggest a temporary fuel supply for testing and sync/idle and check before you put the carbs back in place that you can still refit the cables (throttle especially) otherwise do that first. Also fully refit the air intake and filters for testing.

[bikeman]

yep all that good stuff I would just add one major detail carb rail O rings buy proper Kawasaki ones there only cheap about £2 a set order a couple of sets for next time.
reason being they are an odd size 3mm ones will fit but stretching them over the end of the pipe makes them smaller in thickness I cannot remember the exact size but there 0.25 thicker. and dont use normal engineering O rings these are not petrol proof they shrink go hard and fail after a short time. don't ask how I know. 

[andyuk454ltdbiker]

May 17, 2020 10:56:46 GMT -6 knoizy said:

The official kawasaki manual has an excellent section on carbs and I'm always confused by members here who won't spend £20 to guarantee they have the best chance of fixing (and not damaging) the 454. 

Any job like that needs a full carb clean and rebuild because there's a dozen potential fuel delivery problems you need to be sure about and its a lot of fiddly work to revisit. Before you start photo how the cables and hoses attach, mark the choke direction, heat the rubbers with a hair drier and they will gently yield to half way. Give yourself a large clean worktop and begin disassembly. Carb cleaner only works about half as well as people think, any gunk in the passages or jets might need manual removal. I expect fuel lines can be safely improvised if you need a repair so long as the material is safe for petrol use. I'd suggest a temporary fuel supply for testing and sync/idle and check before you put the carbs back in place that you can still refit the cables (throttle especially) otherwise do that first. Also fully refit the air intake and filters for testing.

I would agree and i do have a manual for the bike but still it can be made easier if you are shown the basics. There are things like what to do and what not to do when it comes to rebuilding carbs as you said, however there are many really good quality garage video's where they show you how to split a CVK carb, clean it down and refit everything. This is exactly what I did.

Spending money does not guarantee anything, it just makes sure you spend money. 

I have replaces what the issue was, I have cleaned and setup the carb, the only thing left is to get the correct jet size for the pods. Once that is done I will be having fun in the sun once again.

[andyuk454ltdbiker]

OK found an issue with the bike which was overlooked.

What i didn't notice, as I did not take the connector apart, the 6 pin male/female connector for the regulator Rectifier. 

Now you guys that know a lot about bikes know that yu should make sure that these connectors are clean and dirt free, and not black and burnt or blue and corroded.
To un novice people who ride bikes and get others to fix them, Mr John Doh...., we would over look these things as we wouldn't have touched them.

Today, after I noticed that the battery was not charging, tested it with a Volt meter, as it sat at 11.6 V across the battery with the bike running are 3k rev's. So I started checking the plugs to look at their condition, and cleaned up the main 2 coming out of the engine, don't ask me what they are called, but they create the 3 phase AC of the dynamo system.

I put them back together retested the voltage and still nothing. So I went to the Rectifier to test there and found one of the wires had come off its terminal. I attempted to remove the terminal but its been a long time since I managed to do that so because of the condition of the whole connector and terminals I am going to replace all of the terminals and both plugs.

I can only presume that the Rectifier is not damaged however I have a new one on its way just in case and i have a spare as well. I do believe in having spares of some of the costly parts because of the expensiveness of time. What is cheap now costs more when a bike gets older. I wish i lived in the USA as it would cost me about $20-$25 here its £66.00. I get mine for around £20 so i am lucky.

Now I do need peoples opinion, because of the voltage drop as the battery has not got the 13.4V to 14.0V (depending on rev's and what not) how much of a difference will that make to your acceleration, and being able to throttle up beyond the 4k revs. I still have this problem after resetting the rockers to the correct height, sorted out the carb to a very high standard (new needles, jets, seals, and diaphragm also O rings for fuel intake and overflow). There is no leakage from the carb and everything
runs correctly until it hits 4k revs. 

I have my new terminals and connectors coming this week and hopefully it will be back up and running, and it sounds nice when running on tick over. 

So my question remains, Would the Rectifier not doing its job effect the engine so it will not rev over 4k in revs?
 

[Blaine]

Short answer....Yes...

[bikeman]

Jun 2, 2020 5:26:33 GMT -6 Blaine said:

Short answer....Yes...

absolutely without the RR working you are running on battery power alone not a good idea.