Starter won’t turn over

[rbrunken]

Hello everyone, I’m pretty new here.
Just came back from basic training, so I left my bike sit for a while, and the other day before I got back, I was told the bike didn’t start. Battery was charged, didn’t even want to turn over; acted like the starter switch was bad. Took a multimeter to it but the start switch is fine. Btw it’s a 1989 454 with only 5500 miles on it. Pulled it out of my grandfathers barn last year with only 4500 on it. Before that, it’s sat for multiple years. I tried taking sole stuff off and using a multimeter to isolate the problem but I’m not sure if I’m getting anywhere. I think the relay assy is bad so I ordered another one, however, I ordered 27002-1064, where the original I pulled off was a -1051. Hopefully, this one will work. I got that one cause it was significantly cheaper than an original oem 1051. I also ordered another starter solenoid just in case it was that. It was only 10 bucks so whatever I guess. Idk if it’s an of the safeties. Might be, but I’ll have to look at the wiring diagram again to see. Tomorrow I’m gonna try bypassing the whole system and directly wire the battery to the starting motor to see if i can turn it over. If it doesn’t turn, then it’s the motor that’s bad. I’ll update tomorrow.

[rbrunken]

After using a multimeter and running more tests, I’ve determined that the issue was the ignition lock. After inspecting very safety lock on the bike, all of them are operational. Ram the lack of power all the way to the ignition lock. As seen in the circuit diagram posted in another thread, power from battery, to ignition lock, to kill switch, to starter button, to starter circuit relay, then go the starter solenoid. As seen in diagram, the ignition switch provides power to a brown and yellow wire. The brown sends power from the switch to lights, horn, etc. The yellow is the ignition circuit. That wire follows the previous sequence as described. After removing and inspecting the ignition switch, there’s a small case with contact connections that slide when turning the key. I originally thought the contacts were dirty, so after cleaning and reassembling, it still didn’t work. After further inspection of the contacts, the spring responsible for white, yellow, brown connection was permanently compressed. As a solution, I wedged a piece of black zip tie between the case lid and the contact board, pressing the contact board into the contacts themselves. After reassembly, it turns over. Hallelujah. I would replace that contact case, but it’s not sold by itself. It’s sold with the lock cylinder, making it a high price tag of $200, when I only need the electrical case, which if sold separately, would likely be $20. Now that it runs, it’s too bad we just got our first snow on Christmas Eve. For the last couple years I’ve always rode on Christmas Day. Maybe it’ll melt by tomorrow. Hit me up if any questions arise.