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Post by polg0003 on Apr 25, 2013 15:49:19 GMT -6
I am having the weirdest ignition issue. It intermmitedly does not turn on. The headlight lights turn on, the brake light works, the neutral indicator works, but when i click the start button, absolutely nothing. No clicks, no turns, absolutely nothing. I tried to narrow some reason for this issue, but there is no rhyme or reason to it. Sometimes it fails to start when its cold, sometimes hot. Other times it starts when its cold, sometimes hot. One time I was holding down the start button and it wouldn't start, and then it just started up as i continued to hold the button. The battery is showing 12 volts, and the engine sounds perfect. And once it starts it does not stall out, and there are no other electrical issues.
I see alot of wires in my future, but if anybody could point me in the right direction that would be good.
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Post by zekkfett on Apr 25, 2013 16:14:03 GMT -6
Check your battery connections and fuses first.
If you have a multimeter, you can test your starter button at the solenoid. The yellow wire, I believe, at the solenoid gets 12v when you press the start button; if you don't get 12 at the solenoid when pressing the button, the button itself might have went bad.
When it won't start, wiggle the key a little, see if that helps.
The only things that would stop it from starting are: the ignition, the stater solenoid, the starter relay, bad battery connections, and the start button itself.
Sent from my LG-LG855 using ProBoards
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Post by eaglerider on Apr 25, 2013 18:50:36 GMT -6
Likely, it is the ignition switch itself. These do get "cranky", and dirty,, and sometimes the plastic cracks, preventing good contact. It is very possible that a ignition switch replacement is in the works.
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Post by bmwpowere36m3 on Apr 26, 2013 19:53:33 GMT -6
If the headlight consistently turns on, then the ignition switch is probably ok. I would check for the safety switches (clutch, neutral and side-stand).
Essentially the CDU is expecting a "ground" on one of its inputs to allow the engine to turn over. There are three safety switches that disrupt that ground and prevent the engine from turning over.
I would start with the clutch switch. Definitely grab a schematic and go to town...
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Post by eaglerider on Apr 27, 2013 3:34:23 GMT -6
The ignition switch has multiple contacts...for lights, starting, etc. A number of switches have had problems with the starting contacts. After all, these switches are constantly exposed to the elements, and are not "sealed" against the weather.... the plastic gets old and brittle, sometimes breaking. Usually, you can wriggle the key a little, and power will return...this is a good indication of pending total failure of the switch.
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Post by polg0003 on Apr 27, 2013 19:38:32 GMT -6
Thanks for the help. I've read that the solenoid should click at some point before the engine starts, and then i noticed that when i hear this click, the engine starts, when I do not hear the click, the engine does not start. I also found out that when I connect the two wires on the solenoid directly (the wire heading to the starter, and the wire coming in from the battery) the engine starts right up. Am I correct to conclude that my problem is the solenoid?
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Post by wonkothesane on May 19, 2013 3:23:33 GMT -6
I have the same problem. In fact it's what drive me to start my complete tear down. Interesting to hear that the ignition switch is a common problem. I'd it a part that can be sourced/replaced easily?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards
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Post by eaglerider on May 19, 2013 4:12:19 GMT -6
Ignition switches can usually be found on ebay, and I can supply a wireing diagram "modification" that can be done so that a universal keyed on/off switch can be used.
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Post by wonkothesane on May 31, 2013 16:15:34 GMT -6
Ignition switches can usually be found on ebay, and I can supply a wireing diagram "modification" that can be done so that a universal keyed on/off switch can be used. Could you please send me a copy? Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards
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Post by eaglerider on May 31, 2013 17:15:59 GMT -6
Sent diagram to your email address.
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Post by wonkothesane on Jun 1, 2013 11:31:16 GMT -6
Got it, many thanks.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards
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Post by remat457 on Jun 1, 2013 21:33:25 GMT -6
I'd it a part that can be sourced/replaced easily? They are a little spendy ($100-$130) but they are easily sourced new. I just got a new ignition from my local Kawa dealer. They were not running much cheaper on EBay, and I figured I would not risk the same problem by getting a new one instead of a used one.
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Post by wonkothesane on Jun 2, 2013 10:33:11 GMT -6
I'd it a part that can be sourced/replaced easily? They are a little spendy ($100-$130) but they are easily sourced new. I just got a new ignition from my local Kawa dealer. They were not running much cheaper on EBay, and I figured I would not risk the same problem by getting a new one instead of a used one. Got a part number, by any chance? Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards
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Post by BenInPA on Jun 2, 2013 13:59:53 GMT -6
You can go on www.kawasakipartshouse.com and get parts diagrams. Just select the year and model and select the view you want. You can get all the part numbers from there. I checked the website and you can get the switch assembly for $106.28. They also show the ignition switch and all other keyed items (tank lock, helmet locks and toolbox) for $216.68. Looks like if you buy that you get every lock on the bike with the same key. Good luck. Sent from my Droid 4 using Proboards Mobile App. ;D
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Post by remat457 on Jun 4, 2013 12:19:46 GMT -6
They are a little spendy ($100-$130) but they are easily sourced new. I just got a new ignition from my local Kawa dealer. They were not running much cheaper on EBay, and I figured I would not risk the same problem by getting a new one instead of a used one. Got a part number, by any chance? Sent from my Nexus 7 using proboards I just happened to be on the Kawa site looking up the part #s for the shear bolts/washers since it apparently doesn't come with the switch. Boo! The ignition switch (with 2 keys) is: 27005-5044 Bolts are 120T0822 superceded by 120CA0822, Washers are 461L0800 superceded by 461DA0800.
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Post by pitrage on Jul 8, 2013 11:46:39 GMT -6
Im having the same issue right now. How did this turn out for you? The only thing I can think of is if I tapped something while replacing the throttle cables. Before that everything seemed to work properly.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I997 using proboards
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Post by pitrage on Jul 8, 2013 11:49:08 GMT -6
Also is there a way to bypass the issue? Reason Im asking is that I have been working on other issues and want to continue those while I work on this. But if its not do able then I will have to figure this out first.
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Post by eaglerider on Jul 8, 2013 15:03:19 GMT -6
You mean the bad ignition switch?? Yes, and if u want to move the switch, and replace it with a different one, it is not hard to do. If you read the posts above, you can see that others have done so, without spending a lot of money for a new one from Kawasaki.....I have the diagram.
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Post by bandagraph on Jul 13, 2013 17:39:38 GMT -6
I'm having a similar issue, but mine clicks every time.
Twice today the bike has stranded me. It would be really nice if it would chose not to start when it is at my home....
Until today, the bike fired up immediately every time. Now I am getting the clicking noise when I press the starter button. It seems like the button is fine, but the starter isn't getting the message to fire. Any ideas?
Also, I've tired bump starting it as well but had no luck (could be user error). Do your bikes not roll as easily in first with the clutch in as they do in neutral? Mine is much harder to push when it's in gear with the clutch engaged. Seems odd to me.
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Post by Blaine on Jul 13, 2013 18:22:47 GMT -6
I'm having a similar issue, but mine clicks every time. Twice today the bike has stranded me. It would be really nice if it would chose not to start when it is at my home.... Until today, the bike fired up immediately every time. Now I am getting the clicking noise when I press the starter button. It seems like the button is fine, but the starter isn't getting the message to fire. Any ideas? Also, I've tired bump starting it as well but had no luck (could be user error). Do your bikes not roll as easily in first with the clutch in as they do in neutral? Mine is much harder to push when it's in gear with the clutch engaged. Seems odd to me. Sounds a lot like your battery.have it load tested.You need to get bike moving & jump start in second.Will never start in 1st,just drag the wheel.
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gonzo
Junior Member
For the 1st time ever I don't like the snow
Posts: 215
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Post by gonzo on Jul 14, 2013 11:25:35 GMT -6
I'm having a similar issue, but mine clicks every time. Twice today the bike has stranded me. It would be really nice if it would chose not to start when it is at my home.... Until today, the bike fired up immediately every time. Now I am getting the clicking noise when I press the starter button. It seems like the button is fine, but the starter isn't getting the message to fire. Any ideas? Also, I've tired bump starting it as well but had no luck (could be user error). Do your bikes not roll as easily in first with the clutch in as they do in neutral? Mine is much harder to push when it's in gear with the clutch engaged. Seems odd to me. When you get the battery load tested make sure (if the battery has a second piece connected to the terminal) that the testing equipment is connected to the same point the bike's wires are connected to. I say this as my battery post was almost broken through. The bolt that held the 2 parts of the battery terminal together was forcing the lower post apart. Lights would come on but under load (starting) would fail and everything stopped. When it was load tested twice it was connected to the lower part of the post so everything looked good. But not on my bike, least to say this had my bike in pieces as I tried to find the problem.
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Post by bandagraph on Jul 15, 2013 18:55:13 GMT -6
Sounds a lot like your battery.have it load tested.You need to get bike moving & jump start in second.Will never start in 1st,just drag the wheel. Thanks - I was able to bump start it. I thought the battery was new, but I will load test it. - Saw the thread about your accident. Glad you are mostly OK!
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Post by bandagraph on Jul 25, 2013 9:45:27 GMT -6
If the headlight consistently turns on, then the ignition switch is probably ok. I would check for the safety switches (clutch, neutral and side-stand). Essentially the CDU is expecting a "ground" on one of its inputs to allow the engine to turn over. There are three safety switches that disrupt that ground and prevent the engine from turning over. I would start with the clutch switch. Definitely grab a schematic and go to town... All - I'm still having starter issues: I have charged the battery and tested it at 12.4V. The weirdest thing is that occasionally it does start like nothing is wrong although maybe not as enthusiastically as it once did. Typically what happens is that I turn the key - all the lights come on. I turn the switch to on, and I press the button and I just hear a click from near the battery....I think it's the ignition box? A question for you all: With the safety switches above, do you here a click if the issue is one of them? Also, can you bump start it (i currently can) if the issue is one of them? Thanks for for all the help so far.
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Post by eaglerider on Jul 25, 2013 10:18:52 GMT -6
Jump the starter seloniod posts by using 2 screwdrivers, or heavy wire...if the starter spins, the selonoid is likely bad. Vulcan 500s use the same selonoid, probably easier to get than looking for a 454 one. Be sure to check all the ground connections to make sure they are clean and good..that can be a source of the problem, too.
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Post by bandagraph on Jul 25, 2013 12:48:13 GMT -6
Jump the starter seloniod posts by using 2 screwdrivers, or heavy wire...if the starter spins, the selonoid is likely bad. Vulcan 500s use the same selonoid, probably easier to get than looking for a 454 one. Be sure to check all the ground connections to make sure they are clean and good..that can be a source of the problem, too Thanks for the suggestion eagle. I apologize for being such a noob, but I understand that as bridging from post 1 to post 2 in my lovely picture below. Key should be on and kill switch on. Is that correct? Or am I not even in the ballpark? Attachment Deleted
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lamestlame
Junior Member
So I am recovering from an accident I had on my ninja. More bonding time with my trusty ol 454 ;)
Posts: 220
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Post by lamestlame on Jul 26, 2013 0:09:50 GMT -6
Did you figure this out 0003?
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Post by eaglerider on Jul 26, 2013 6:55:57 GMT -6
Yep...posts 1 & 2.....Now if u have the ignition on, make sure the kill switch is on, or the bike (if in gear) might start and take off on u!
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Post by bandagraph on Jul 28, 2013 6:43:23 GMT -6
I appreciate the responses and suggestions everyone. I've had the battery professionally load tested and it checked out ok. I've tried jumping the solenoid posts, but I'm getting nothing, not even sparks. I know it is getting power because it clicks when I press the starter. It might be time for me to take it in.
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Post by zarric on Jul 28, 2013 8:52:25 GMT -6
I am having the weirdest ignition issue. It intermmitedly does not turn on. The headlight lights turn on, the brake light works, the neutral indicator works, but when i click the start button, absolutely nothing. To polg0003, see PM.
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Post by eaglerider on Jul 28, 2013 10:37:19 GMT -6
If u jumped the selonoid and nothing happened...that is an indication that the starter is bad, as that is the same as connecting the starter directly to the battery.
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