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Post by actionverb on Jun 19, 2017 19:06:08 GMT -6
Hey everyone,
Well, I've jumped into the deep end.... Stumbled onto a deal on an '87 454 LTD and couldn't pass it up. 12k miles, totally stock, laid down once, been sitting for a few years.
I'm more of a reader than a poster, so I've been stalking you all for a couple weeks Can't say thanks enough for those that keep this board going and for all the great info. I essentially have no experience so every question, comment and thought typed out has helped me. Here's where I'm at, with the ultimate goal of a clean and lean bobber style...
Oils and filter changed, new battery, then found it starts MUCH easier when the choke actually works (cable rusted in half). Also found out it will do more that idle once I put the air filters back on. She now starts with just a touch of the button and purrs. New bars created a need to adjust the clutch. Taking grips off is a pain. Also, note to self, measure the throttle length BEFORE sliding the new grip on. Taking the new grip off was even worse. Added SL650 shocks and adjusted the belt. One quick ride and the fork seals are done. Possible the rust on the forks did them in? You can see the puddle in one of the images below. From the reading I've done I am not looking forward to that seal replacement project.
I have kids and they want rides, but dad wants a single seat machine, so I've spent hours staring and thinking on how to get this done. Picked up an LS650 main seat and passenger seat off ebay for a great deal (turns out the ebay seller is a local a builder. check out these sweet machines Droog Moto ). So now I'm trying to figure out a clean, safe mount for a removable passenger seat. It's likely been done before, but I have yet to see this done on a 454 in all the pictures and posts I've come across. Finally gave up on doing with the stock fender and seat components, so ordered a 6" flat Kraft Tech fender. Be here in a week.
Going LEDs for all lights except the headlight, then will see if its enough. Likely want to change out the gauges too, as the stock ones are pretty rusted. Also, looking for a way to get a couple of dents out of the tank. Think they're both a little to large and deep for the glued dent puller method. Thinking a welded post and a slide hammer are about my only options.
Again, thank you all for the great BB.
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Post by actionverb on Aug 1, 2017 23:36:36 GMT -6
I need your help folks. Well been enjoying the bike and great weather in PNW. This thing is fun, easy to ride and quick enough. Lots to do still, but I got it looking okay for now and running good. Didn't really have to do much to get it running good. I installed the Dime City Cycles 16" Shorty Slash Cut Mufflers, as seen in the image. From doing some reading I felt it was running lean after the exhaust change. I had nothing else to go by except a few sentences on some BBs or product reviews I've come across. Okay no biggie I thought. When I fix the tank I'll figure out how to fix the jets (still have no idea). In the mean time the things cracking and poppin' every time I left off the throttle. Now, I've done a lot of reading, everything I can get my eyes on and not once did I read that this was a clear indication of a lean or very lean situation, until I read "If you notice any popping, you are extremely lean." on the product description for the 6 Sigma Custom Carburetor Carb Stage 1-7 Jet Kit on Amazon.
Ok fast forward 200 miles on the current setup and the bike has died. Wont start, but wants to. While cranking on it flames would occasionally come out of the exhaust. My thoughts now are, since it sat for 2+ years undercover but outside in the northwest it likely needs a carb cleaning/rebuild. Maybe something finally shook loose. Second is to fix the jets at the same time.
So my questions are... Did I break or ruin anything with 200 miles on a lean engine? Anyone have an opinion on the 6 Sigma Kit ? I'm Ok with paying a little more for great instruction since I have no experience with this type of job.
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Post by eaglerider on Aug 2, 2017 5:27:22 GMT -6
Have you ever checked/adjusted the valves?
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Post by actionverb on Aug 2, 2017 9:00:19 GMT -6
That's a negative
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Post by eaglerider on Aug 2, 2017 10:12:37 GMT -6
Your valves are likely too tight. There are easier ways to adjust the valves, other than how the manual states....look thru the forum.. there are e z instructions here.
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Post by actionverb on Aug 2, 2017 12:10:29 GMT -6
Will do and thanks
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Post by actionverb on Aug 5, 2017 12:25:05 GMT -6
On my valve cover gasket there are 4 lobe like things at the ends of each can. It appears there was some sealant used, but only in these 4 spots. Is this factory, required, recommended or odd?
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Post by Blaine on Aug 5, 2017 18:27:29 GMT -6
On my valve cover gasket there are 4 lobe like things at the ends of each can. It appears there was some sealant used, but only in these 4 spots. Is this factory, required, recommended or odd? A little dab is ok just to hold in place if needed.....But not factory.
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Post by actionverb on Aug 21, 2017 13:25:03 GMT -6
Well valves adjusted, carbs rebuild and rejeted to 130 and tank cleaned/recoated and she still won't start. Troubleshooting time I guess.
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Post by hemi on Aug 23, 2017 20:03:35 GMT -6
I discovered using compressed air is good to get grips off. Stick the nozzle at the joint of the rubber and the bar and hit the button. Then go searching for it in the direction that it flew.
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Post by actionverb on Aug 23, 2017 20:57:01 GMT -6
Thanks Hemi. These dang grips have an aluminum ring at each end effectively locking out access for most tools or lube. Didn't think of that when bought!
Anyways, as mentioned earlier bike died so I tore into it. Back together now and it still won't start. Cranks and cranks but not even a hint of a start. Starter fluid in the breather does nothing, got spark coming off both coil wires when grounded, but not sure of the quality of spark. Pulled plugs, look great, a little fuel on them, closed the gaps a bit to .6mm, reseated all coil wires, still nothing. Just now did a little carb cleaner in each plug hole, no change in failure to start. Didn't sound even a little bit different. Did it twice to make sure. Seems electrical. Any and all suggestions would be hugely appreciated.
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Post by actionverb on Aug 23, 2017 23:12:34 GMT -6
Can the clutch switch, kickstand switch or kill switch fail allowing the starter to crank but prevent it from starting?
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Post by edge0302 on Aug 24, 2017 12:36:33 GMT -6
I have little experience with motorcycles, but if I had to guess, based on the fact that you have spark, the switch probably isn't affecting anything. More likely a fuel problem, based on what mine is doing (very similar to your description). I saw you post that you had cleaned your tank out, but not what needed cleaned, was it rust?
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Post by actionverb on Aug 24, 2017 12:49:30 GMT -6
Yes rust. Attempted once with white vinegar with only limited success. Redid it with KBS, can't recall the maker. It's a process! Found out afterwards a local radiator shop does it for a reasonable price. Grrr. Going to try to find out just how good my spark is tonight
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Post by hemi on Aug 24, 2017 12:54:16 GMT -6
If the clutch or the kickstand switch were involved I don't think you should get a spark. The neutral safety circuit goes into the igniter and that's where I draw my assumption. Make sure you have enough juice in the battery. It it's turning the starter but the voltage drops too low it won't start. I used to have a charger with a starting setting and would be needed to get mine started sometimes if my battery were weak.
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Post by actionverb on Aug 24, 2017 14:03:03 GMT -6
Thx for the replies. Have used both a portable jump starter as well as a battery tender, which is on it now. It cranks over hard enough. Will check the voltage with a meter just to make sure.
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Post by knoizy on Aug 24, 2017 19:08:07 GMT -6
Can the clutch switch, kickstand switch or kill switch fail allowing the starter to crank but prevent it from starting? IIRC the killswitch on this bike may do exactly that, its worth bypassing all of those switches for some testing anyway. Did you fit a fuel filter to catch any bits of rust from the tank? I'd be tempted to revisit the carbs, they often need more than just carb cleaner and perhaps try the stock jets for testing with a temp fuel line. Once you move even slightly away from stock on the fuel system many folks here appear to have some serious re-tuning to do if it involves pods or jets. That said the bike should at least start, good luck and keep us updated.
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Post by actionverb on Aug 28, 2017 10:31:06 GMT -6
Ok bypassed the 3 switches, same result.... failure to start. Fuel filter now on it, but wasn't when it broke down. That's the reason I believed it was a carb issue when it broke down. We'll, the moment I can get it to start by priming the cylinders is when I'll believe it's the carbs, I've tried 5x to get it to run on ether, carb cleaner and gas with no improvement. Coil wiring is correct, coil resistence is within spec (2.6k and 16k) and plugs are good. Leaning toward the IC Igniter box or a bad ground now. searching for proper testing details on the igniter.
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Post by hemi on Aug 28, 2017 16:10:53 GMT -6
I heard about boiling carbs instead of a chemical dip several years ago and have been doing it ever since. Ive had great success just using water. Steam is an awesome cleaner. But recently I heard about putting a cup of lemon juice or vinegar. So now I use both a cup of vinegar and lemon juice and water and boil for 20 or 30 minutes. I turn them in the water and let the steam boil up through the circuits and throw all the metal parts in too. I've read not to put the diaphragms in there because of the rubber, and I don't put the floats in either. I'm afraid that perhaps the heat and expansion of the air in the floats might crack them so I keep them out. And then I used compressed air to blow out the circuits. It's just as effective as any chemical dip or mineral spirits and so much cleaner. And 20-30 minutes instead of soaking over night. And the lemon juice/vinegar makes the carbs look great.
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Post by actionverb on Aug 28, 2017 19:52:23 GMT -6
Eureka!!! Found it. Of course it was my own fault. I mounted the ic igniter to the rear fender under the seat. Looked like plenty of room. Nope. Large bumps were putting pressure on the connector until it finally broke and nearly sheared the pin. It looked still all in tact until I unmounted it. Now for care tuning and such...I hope! Thanks all for the guidance
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Post by hemi on Aug 29, 2017 2:27:35 GMT -6
Congrats! Glad you found it. I'm struggling to get my bike running since an engine failure last February. I'm suspecting that my igniter has failed since the time I removed and replaced my engine with a used engine a couple of months ago. No other explaination at this point. I have suspected my igniter is a weak point. Similar issues in the past have me wondering about the igniter. Once it get working it seems to work fine, but every time my bike sits for a while under repair I have had difficulty getting it running. And this time it just won't start. I'm very frustrated. Especially since I just can't afford an igniter.
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Post by actionverb on Sept 1, 2017 1:00:00 GMT -6
Done the usual testing like checking plugs, spark, vacuum or air leaks and fuel I'm sure. Wish I could help but I got the feeling you're a lot more knowledgeable about these things then me
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Post by hemi on Sept 6, 2017 14:27:53 GMT -6
I believe I found my problem. I took the ignition module apart and found a burned up resistor, another that got real hot, and heat stress on bother the transistors. The burned up resistor is fortunately part of the driver circuit for one of the spark plugs, so all I had to do was trace the circuit to find its sister resistor to find value. The color code had burned off. I'll replace 4 resisters, both transisters, and all the electrolytic capacitors. A 30 year old electrolytic cap an never be considered good.
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Post by actionverb on Oct 27, 2017 13:33:34 GMT -6
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Post by nymphetamine6 on Nov 4, 2017 2:17:53 GMT -6
Man. She is really looking gorgeous.
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Post by actionverb on Nov 10, 2017 19:13:21 GMT -6
Thanks Bro! Wanted to upload a way better picture. Almost can't tell the paint on the tank and side covers is really messed up. Just got new black levers and have the master cylinder apart now for painting now.
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Post by nymphetamine6 on Nov 15, 2017 4:14:28 GMT -6
What bars are those?
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Post by actionverb on Nov 27, 2017 13:32:26 GMT -6
Krator Motorcycle Handlebar 7/8" Black Euro Style. 6" wide at the center. First ones I got were only 5". Oversight on my part. They let me use the OE cables.
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Post by heinz1 on Dec 10, 2017 20:14:25 GMT -6
Looking good:)
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Post by actionverb on Oct 11, 2018 13:50:10 GMT -6
So I completed a few bucket list items on the bike this summer....My first multi-day road trip, road on the beach and crossed the Cascades on the North Cascade Hwy, one of the most amazing stretches of road in this part of the conntry. 1200+ miles in 4 days, from desert to ocean to mountain, from sea level to 5800 ft, and the bike did amazing, carrying my big bottom without a singal complaint. I didn't baby it either. Totally hooked.
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